Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[rayman007]

@hank

> some simple nickname for the second batch of lights (Q8* maybe?)

Q8.1?

There should be some quick-look way to tell them apart — maybe the screw heads differ?

If you read my post they are different Perhaps I wasnt clear enough. The heads are less flat

[The_Miller]

First report above
seems like TF did dim the switch led a bit, like on the proto
So side by side one could see it then.
If only one comes, it’ll be harder

[patmurris]

@rayman007

Hi,

I just received my second q8 this one is from the 2nd batch and I must say it is better finished/cleaner inside
The screws are different and not stripped this time

The led in the switch is a bit dimmer though but uniformly lit (but my first one was also)

The original is better aligned and is easier to screw thatn the second one.

Once the 3rd one comes ill try and make comparison shots

First report from the second batch! Thanks. :+1:
Some picts?
What’s with the tube screwing?

[Tom_E]

Sounds like they went back to a round panhead, which is good.

[DavidEF]

Mine has landed in the USA, so tracking now works on the FedEx site. It says the shipment should arrive Thu 10/12/2017 by end of day! That actually seems like a long time, even for FedEx Smartpost. I’m hoping it comes near the beginning of the week instead.

[rayman007]

[rayman007]

And some glamour shots of the OG and Nitecore lanyard

[patmurris]

Thanks for the picts! :+1:
It looks much better indeed.
The driver screws seem smaller… M2.5 vs M3? Do they move freely though the holes in the PCB?

[rayman007]

@patmurris

Thanks for the picts! :+1:
It looks much better indeed.
The driver screws seem smaller… M2.5 vs M3? Do they move freely though the holes in the PCB?

No problem.

Yeah looks way cleaner

Havent unscrewed them (yet) so don’t know mate

[The_Miller]

Thanks for the pics!
Can you show the LEDs of the switches next to each other?

[rayman007]

@The Miller

Thanks for the pics!
Can you show the LEDs of the switches next to each other?

I tried
but it is dark and they either both look like a torch or you can only see the leds

It is very minimal the difference but the 2nd one is a very tiny bit more dim but does have the T centered

[ToyKeeper]

@Tom E

@Flashy Mike

What is not reproducable - the power loss or the fix?

Hard taps on a table on the tail and unable to reproduce the power loss/flicker. Just did this with two Q8’s the other night - pretty sure I had 30Q BT’s in them.

It was fairly easy to reproduce the power loss with the stock springs though — this has been a concern of ours for quite a while. We hoped the new springs ThorFire went with in production would eliminate or reduce the likelihood of it. The new double springs were supposed to address this, but, things happen…

Aggravating but not a major issue - on bike usage perhaps, but again, I’d like to see far more informative posts on this, not just showing the failure scenario, but steps that can be taken to eliminate or reduce the effect - for example, how does 70 mm protected cells compare? Or even stating what the sizes of the cells used in the video? Etc…. Would adding magnets on the Batt- end of the cells help?

Bump sensitivity is an inherent issue in any light without springs on both ends. However, longer cells or BAT- magnets would probably help. I’ve used this approach before and it was effective.

Another option is possibly adding some short/long press detection to the firmware and resuming at the previous level after a short press. This could probably make the Q8 tolerate pretty long interruptions of power, depending on how fast the MCU’s SRAM decays. I suspect that a couple “noinit” vars checked on boot could probably make bumps a non-issue.

[hank]

> Bump sensitivity

Remember when joggers ran with portable CD players?
Those had to be developed to tolerate all sorts of bumping and jarring, I recall.
I guess they cached a few seconds of the recording. Like the “5-second obscenity delay” on live television …

[b1i1l1l1y1]

@b1i1l1l1y1

Posting as a heads up that the Q8 will lose connection if dropped/bumped from the tailcap (seems obvious) but just wanted to make people aware of this now so they don’t freak out later.
Note: I am using button top 30Q batteries

To clarify, I am using 30Q button tops from MTN Electronics that appear to be about 66.5mm. Also to clarify this is not something I am hugely concerned about. I have a M43 which had a similar issue and I have never run into an issue with that yet and am not worried either.

[ohbreeeezy]

Are those screws from the new batch?

[patmurris]

Latest picts a few post back are from the second batch.

[ZozzV6]

I tried my Q8 in the Haikelite SC01 box. And it fits nice next to the SC01. Or only Q8 with a spare set of batteries.

[WestBam]

Published by the Hungarian BLF Q8 review.

I prepared the cheat sheet in the Hungarian language. This is not a small but quite understandable thing I think. Anyone who needs this can download it on THIS LINK.

Beamshot photos:

[Zulumoose]

Bought this camera lens case from a charity shop for the equivalent of $1

Seems perfect for my Q8, added a few familiar objects for scale.

[teacher]

@Zulumoose

Bought this camera lens case from a charity shop for the equivalent of $1

Seems perfect for my Q8, added a few familiar objects for scale.

That should work nicely Zulumoose…. good score!!
I like the fact that it is a hard case too, as it will offer more protection.