I bought my Lii-500 from them and they sent me a EU adapter (I live in Canada). There was no option to select the adapter so i was thinking they would send the adapter according to my country, but they didn’t. You might want to send them a message to make sure they send you the US adapter.
My BLF Q8 order history:
Submitted 9/7/17
Payment Confirmed 9/7/17
Processed 9/7/17
Sometime after that it went to “Back-order”
Then… Shipped 9/28/17
I’m assuming during that production halt anyone that hadn’t had their light shipped out wouldn’t be receiving one before the Sideswitch LED issue was looked into and would receive a post fixed one? Hopefully we can get some “patch notes” after chinese holiday and some sort of maybe version number differentiation in the boxes so we know they are a post fix unit without digging into it. I know that wonderful in-depth guide was posted which allows us to look into everything and making sure it is functioning as intended but maybe for a peace of mind there will be a way to tell right off the bat if it’s a unit that slipped through the cracks or was post patch.
Anxious to receive my unit in the next few days! I’m much more excited than I am worried at this point though!
PSA: DO NOT DO THIS without isolating one side of the battery.
Didn’t even consider it a few years ago when I wanted to measure the length of a cell. No real damage, bit it did get exciting for a second.
OOPS
That’s what plastic calipers are for. 
Has anyone with a 30 digit tracking number been able to find tracking information anywhere? Just curious.
Thanks
I see the Liitokala is popular… I use an Xtar wp6… I read that it was a good charger in terms of performance…
Is there a charger that does as good a job but is 8-10 or even 12 bay….? Or at the point do people just get multiple chargers?
The Enova Gyrfalcon is an 8 bay charger that does a good job. I have two Enova All-80 8 bay’s and the Gyrfalcon. And several XTAR’s. And the Opus. And an Efest 6 bay. And…
I can charge at least 39 cells at a time.
Tried all the methods suggested by the good folks here with no luck. Pics of the second batch in the wild lead me to believe it shouldn’t be too long till ours show up.
Of my 3, one is being played with at the Hong Kong Airport and the good people in the Chinese postal community are testing my other two, prior to letting the Airport personnel have their go.
Nice. I don’t know if my similar looking case I had already forgotten about is the exact same(bought separately, don’t have the SC01), but it will actually fit two sets of spare cells packed in the Nitecore NBM40 holders. I’ll check if it also fits the Q8 with them later on, I left the Q8 in my car. :person_facepalming:
I got a 20 digit also tied up being sorted in HK for 2 days, and one 30 digit with no clue how to trace it, message left with BG bout it and no answer yet.
i doubt there will be any clue in packaging. From pics who recv'd the new ones, should be able to tell easily by the screws holding down the driver - 1st batch had flat heads, 2nd batch has round panheads - thinks that's what they are called. Screws seen under the tailcap were changed the same way.
Depends if the cell has a raise bottom or not
Samsung18650 cells have the heat shrink tube covering the minus if you don’t pus the calipers hard
Steel is not a good conductor so it wont harm too bad
It won’t probably be that dangerous, but not a pleasant surprise either. It’s easy to short a cell when trying to measure even if it’s wrapped around the edges on negative end.
Using some tape or a piece of flat plastic is quite easy with the digital caliper pictured above, even if you want to be super accurate. Just isolate the ends, zero, and measure.
Steel doesn’t conduct as well as copper, but those calipers are thick enough it’d be like the equivalent of a zero-gauge copper wire. It should easily be able to damage the cell if held like that for long.
If anyone thinks steel isn’t a good conductor, try laying a wrench across a car battery. 
(or, actually, don’t… unless you want to destroy both items and risk injury)
In both of these scenarios you would see some sparks (sorry for my understatement) before cell damage would occur. I’m more afraid of second or third degree burns on hands and face, causing a domestic or industrial fire, and/or eye damage. Or avoiding any of those, publicly having to admit shitting oneself. Pardon my French on a family forum like this, but this is serious stuff. I’m speaking out of experience and it’s my wish others will not have to. 
Dr. Jones has bump protection working really good in his h17f driver. I’m not sure how he implemented it, but it can distinguishe whether loss of power was a bump or an intentional button press. A slam down on the table will be ignored.
The last time I was home, I showed my wife the Q8. She said, “Wow, that’s a NICE flashlight.”
As I type this, I’m in DC for business. She is in San Diego. We’re on the phone and a circuit breaker trips. As she’s heading outside to reset the breaker (with the L6) she says, “I need the soda can light.”
Across the country, I am grinning ear to ear.
I love my wife!
Quality cells like those Samsungs wont burn and explode
They got still electro-mechanical safeties against serious overcurrent or vent, which will separate the Anode from the positive contact
Those cell explosions usually come from overdischarge or other abuse damaging the separator foil inside the cell or overcharge
Yeah I ordered an $0,88 plastic caliper to measure cells or things that scratch easy. Good Quality 150 mm 6” Gray Plastic Mini Caliper Vernier Gauge Micrometer
http://s.aliexpress.com/zQrEFJB3
(from AliExpress Android)
Even cheaper now
Smittyjojo, yes it I’d frustrating, order and forget is rrally best for blood pressure.
Lots have been send out, too late for a V2 marking on box.