How long is slow 
Jeez not slow enough! So after 2 days cycling between warm (the lowest setting on the crock pot) and cold, letting it sit over night, gone thru 9oz. of Toluene… it’s not good! :person_facepalming:
The domes on 2 must have been hanging by the bond wires and took them out with just blowing on them and the first one hit with a light blast of air took the phosphorus as a complete pad with it? :rage:
The XML’s XP-G2’s no problem.
Had them sitting up, as not to pull phosphorus off hanging them upside down, like what happened with the XHP70’s?
I’ll give it another go, hanging them upside down and see? IF this don’t work, I’ll just go back to agitation and cold fluid de-doming……takes forever but it works for me with the XHP35’s and XHP70’s.
For SST-40 I am giving up on liquid method and switching to shawing, just have to buy some razor blades.
Well the liquid de-doming isn’t the problem, that I’m finding out with the tougher LED’s, it’s the time, nothing good comes fast I guess. 
And too Hot seems to just explode the domes up off these tough LED’s and takes phosphor with it, as I witnessed doing the Hot and I mean bubbling HOT de-doming (MEK :confounded: ) the XHP LED’s. :cry:
I’m going to reflow 3 more SST’s and hang them and just go slow, till they fall off? Then see what’s UP? :person_facepalming:
Normally I just use one of them Jewelry Sonic cleaner’s and IMRON paint thinner but it could take a week or two, because I only run it when I’m going to be around to monitor it, other wise it just sits in the fluid.
Let’s call it heated chemicals method, works fine for me when I dedome XML2, XPL or XPE2 leds, usually I hang then upside down submerged in liquid heated to about 45-50 degrees celsius. It takes about 40-60 minutes and as soon as I notice that the dome has lifted from the phosphorus surface I take them out, remove the dome, wash the led with 96% alcohol then remove remaining silicone around the phosphorus “core”, wash again with alcohol then with destilled water, dry it out with compressed air and that is it, for XPL its even faster because silicone dome doesnt go around the led like on XML2 or XPG2… leds.
This method gives me minimum tint shift, I would say that 6500K only drops to 6000-5800K (but I have no way to measure this so, it’s my subjective opinion).
Where can i buy sst-40 hi ?
Thanks
for better beam focus, better throw.
I am sory, that’s confidential, you have to have at least 1000 posts for that info.
You really need to read this forum a lot more before commenting…
I did the click. Each of you got one.
Thanks, that’s what I get for trying to explain things :person_facepalming:
I see no rudeness but then we are all different. :+1:
OK, I’ll try to explain why do I see 2 comments as rude:
1.
My reading of this post is “your posts are illogical”
2.
I don’t see any explanation in here. Just silencing a new member who asks questions.
BTW the post when I admitted marking the posts as rude is considered rude by someone.
That’s what I’m thinking right now! :person_facepalming:
I really want to put one in my M25C2 Turbo, I have a de-domed XPL-W2 6500k in it now and at 6.27 amps it’s throwing just over 580kcd conservatively, on a VTC5A. I want to see what the SST-40 can do. I’ll probably change the FET out on the real old Mtn FETDD driver after I take a current reading if the driver can’t supply 8amps to the LED? I have SIR800’s 404DP’s and Infineon FET’s I could try out?
JUST Something to do…. 
Always with the negative waves, Moriarty. Always with the negative waves…
Sort of dedomed an SST-40 on white spirit, but screwed up the little bond wire which connects the two substrate pieces while removing dome leftovers with a toothpick. What is it for?
Cheers ^:)
Hm? Looking at
http://www.luminus.com/images/SST-40-W.png
and zooming in, can’t quite make out any “substrate pieces”.
Is there an antistatic diode off on the side?
I thought it was a reverse polarity protection!
Check comment #8 on this thread where Lexel repaired a broken bond wire.
Link: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/47908
That bond wire?
Edit: copy the whole quote so you get the whole picture instead of just saying it’s for ESD protection so you don’t go and put a solder blob there and damage something. (Well maybe works if you ONLY gets solder on the wires but that would be tricky. Maybe wrong… ask the experts)
Aha, much better view.
True reverse-polarity protection would have to shunt the full reversed-voltage current as the LED would handle if forward-biased, and that’s way too small. So it’s probably a small zener diode, about o(10V) or so, to just shunt small reverse-biased voltage spikes from static.
Anyone want to test it?
Snap together a few 9V batteries, 1 at a time!!, put a 100kΩ resistor in series with it, then “zap” the LED backwards and measure the voltage across the LED. Full battery voltage means the zener ain’t conducting yet. If the voltage is, say, 6.2V from a single 9V battery, it’s a 6.2V zener. If 9V from one 9V battery but 12.6V from a pair at 18V, then it’s a 12.6V zener. Etc.
Keep the current to around 0.1mA (100µA) or less, preferably much less.