Review: KD 7135 V2 drivers 3040/2280/1520 mA with mode configuration

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
50

Battery positive. If you use one of the 7135s that's on the battery side of the board, the jumper wire can be run from the VDD pin to the pad that the spring is soldered to.

Just be sure that the VDD pin for the 7135 you're using is disconnected from the trace on the board or it will backfeed the others and you'll lose all modes except high.

51

What are the modes settings with the reflash you did?

52

.002, .085, .650, 1.5, 3.15

53

Soon I will sandwich a triple with these:) hopefully it will be a beast ,lol

54

Piggyback works fine, i soldered 2 extra 7135 (350mA) on it, and driver delivers 3,74A.

55

Hi

I need your help

I bought this driver from kaidomain and i can't get even close to 3040ma. The maximum ma i measured(from the battery to the driver) in high mode is 1450ma. What i have done until now

and

I have connected this driver to:

2 ultrafire 501b, (1 ebay and 1 manasoft.com)

1 ultrafire c8, (ebay)

1 citipower x5(ultrafire 502b clone)

All of them have the xm-l t6 leds

my batteries are

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-18650-3-7v-true-2400mah-rechargeable-lithium-batteries-2-pack-20392

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-protected-2000mah-3-7v-tr-18650-battery-2-pack-12396

and

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafire-protected-18650-3-7v-2400mah-lithium-batteries-2-pack-grey-19624

I fully charge them to 4,2v with 1A charge rate with a turnigy accucel 6 charger

I even tried to connect 2 18650 batteries(same brand) in parallel just in case my batteries have high internal resistant.

I replaced the thin cable from the driver to the led with a thicker cable 2mm diameter

Note: I didn't soldered any bridge

I had no luck whatever I tried until now

Do you have any idea what is wrong or what i sould try next?

I am not a hero in english language so please try to post in simple english

Thanks

56

Try a different DMM or different leads on your DMM some have a hard time reading above 1 amp.

57

I think the same, everything indicates thin wires or a bad DMM; You can try with thick wires directly to the DMM (Digital Multi Meter). I used to have this problem, I and solved it that way with 5mm² (AWG10) wires.

58

Perhaps the batteries are not up to the job. Did you get any higher reading in a DD light?

59

I don’t think so, he used TrustFire “Flames” and connected them in parallel.

60

Thank you all for your post.

I have to admit i didn't thing to change my multimeter.

I have 2 multimeter

1X25usd from dx and 1X5usd?!?!? from ebay. The results i have with the first dmm is 1250ma, with the second 1100ma but with both of them(in paraller) about 2000ma (first dmm 1100ma, second dmm 900ma).

First i connected the 25usd dmm and then I connected the second.... wow the output was awesome. Since i don't own a third dmm i left the 2 dmms connected in pareller and i added a 1mm 20mm long cable in parallel too.... and wow! even more output than the 2 dmms in paraller so the mystery solved. The strange thing is that the 2 dmms was still had indications when i connected the extra cable(800ma the first and 350ma the second)

So now i need a recommendation for a multimeter(not very expensive) and thick leads for my future explorations

If DD stands for direct drive the answer is yes but as you see the problem was the dmm.

61

Do you solder a connection between the driver (battery negative ring) and the pill?

62

I am not sure what is the pill but i didn't solder anything. I used crocodile clips(extra cable and the cheap dmm have them installed)

63

The pill is the brass part of the flashlight, where the LED is glued on.

For example this part, if it is a drop-in:

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S010133

To get a good result you have to solder a battery negative ring to the brass part.

64

I almost destroyed the driver(solder-desolder many times) so i decided to install it to one of my flashlight and i ordered a new one from kaidomain.

I also ordered this http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S005025 SSC P7 5-mode driver which will direct drive my xml t6 led.

I will test the p7 driver with a half charged 18650 battery(not imr) and gradually until 4,2volts.

My tailcap has 0.4-0.5 resistance so I hope I can use it without burning my led. I will post my test results here.

65

E1320 said:

Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.

Are you sure it's the same board? It seems to have a quite different pin layout; others said so, too.
Or did you refer to the PIC version of the NANJG105(A)?
Can you take a photo of the driver?

66

Hi,

New to this forum, and flashlight diy projects. But I like it already!

I'm thinking about using this driver (2280) with a 16340 battery, and a suitable xm-l led (something like http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xm-lt6-885lm-led-emitter-6000k-white-light-bulb-3-0-3-5v-50599 ). What do you experts think about that?

67

Welcome! IMO you’d be better off with the 1.5A version of this driver if using a 16340, especially if you are using a non-IMR cell. (IMRs are more suited for high current than regular (LiCo) cells). I tend to be on the conservative side, so others may disagree.

Last night I put a 2280 into my Yezl Z1x (UF2100) and boy does that get warm quick. I don't know how you guys with DD drivers in those things handle it.

68

Thanks mitro! Aside the heat, are there any serious cons with my configuration? Guess battery time will suffer, but if I use aw imr battery and doesnt run it on hi mode all the time it shouldnt explode, or burn the led or something like that…? I think it could be a pretty powerful torch!

69

I have 5 of these winging their way to me.

I am very interested in learning how to re-program this driver.

What equipment and software would I need in order to do this?

Many thanks