Yeah the better throw was through your modification
The lumen loss is due to the LED are likely a D4 bin with lower blue light reducing the luxmeter reading a bit,
but definitely not a E4, which should have in worst case 7% more in best case 20%
The G35 was touted as having an HI D4 emitter to begin with. I honestly don’t remember doing it, but I must have put an HD emitter in it before I had surgery. The numbers I posted as stock were indeed as it came out of the box, I posted that the day I got it.
Without high end equipment, the vast majority of us really have no way of knowing just what emitter was sent to us by anyone we order from. Most can’t even get a reading. Those of us that can, know full well that our numbers are for comparison to our previous numbers alone, even if our light boxes were built by the same people. It’s never a rock solid carved in stone absolute, but a way to compare before and after when we mod a light.
I posted the beamshots and I like it with Narsil too much
I wont do go back to the replacement driver with XHP35 LED
XPL HI V3-3C @6.7A 1185m throw
with 3 Sanyo 18650GA cells cold start
14050 lux at 5m
351k lux @1m
Some pictures from the mod
stripping all parts and solder mask
Battery configuration changed to 1S/1-3P
Driver prepared with positive wire and thermal glue
Driver ground ring soldered with the main driver on a large surface to get a thermal bridge for the 7135 cooling
Also applied some Arctic Silver 5 between the shelf and tube
The illuminated side switch with Narsils Indicator LED output
XPL V3-3C
Finally got around to rebuilding my S42 with a TA/NarsilM driver from Lexel.
Soldered a 10kOhm resistor to the driver for the switch LED (stuck it down with superglue after soldering to stop it being ripped off by the wire moving).
I wanted thermal stepdown, and as this has awful thermal mass, I made a copper heat sink from an 18mm copper bar:
Thermal epoxied to the underside of the shelf:
I then put a generous amount of thermal epoxy on top of the μC, closed everything up and held the driver in place with the battery tube and left it to cure.
After some very fiddly soldering I managed to get the switch board and cover back into place (I didn’t leave a lot of space behind the switch for any excess wire, so had to cut them pretty short):
I know, the icon is upside down, I may correct that at some point, but I’m just happy it works 
I had a busy evening. Changed the LEDs on my green D4 to Nicha 219c 4000k. Perfectly golden tint with amazing CRI. The only downside is that it gets much hotter now than it did with XP-G2.
Dedomed a XP-G2 and put it in a C8. Pulls 4.27A on turbo and measured 176kcd at 10 meters. :+1:
Reworked the 4 18650 ability of my Maxtoch Shooter 2X. Turned out pretty good, feel good about the 4 hour investment…
Single tube for the 4 cells, 14 3/4” overall length.
Reflowed 219C 4000k into JETBeam MK-1. It is my first LED reflowed. I used flat iron tip. I hated cool tint of stock emiter. With 1.4v battery it takes around 1A on max level. Looks like ~100lm.
Having already reworked my big Olight SR-90 Intimidator a while back with an XHP-70 and the big Illuminations Machines diamond facet 5-90 reflector with a high CRI K bin, I wasn’t all that pleased with the lower output from that emitter. So I swapped it out with a new style 70.2 a few days ago. This was an N4 emitter in 5700K tint, and while the tint was still nice, the light was still “only” making 5300 lumens. So I got a new P2 bin, also in 5700K tint, from Richard. Swapped them out last night and checked output… simply swapping in the new P2 got the lumens up to 8038! Nice!
(I have modified the battery compartment in this light as well, instead of the proprietary pack I’m using a pair of 32650’s. These were partially used and well rested and still showed the 8038 lumens, need to charge em back up and see what’s shakin.)
Today my black D4 got its third set of leds. I took out the 4000K 90CRI XP-L2’s (right on picture), they were too green to be acceptable, and swapped in 4000K 70CRI Luxeon V’s (left on picture above).
The reflow was the most tedious annoying reflow I have ever done, because of the non-matching footprint every fraction of a mm wrong resulted in a short, from + to central pad or from - to central pad. All 4 leds needed exact positioning with the exact right amount of solder, I must have repositioned leds 30 times before I got it right with no shorts to the central pad (and thus ground). I wonder how safe this light is actually, the solder is solid of course, and in a TIR flashlight there is no force on the leds at all, but a battery short is that fraction of a mm away, with no collapsable springs in the D4.
But let’s not think unpleasant thoughts and have a look at the results. The beam is very nice, no square stuff and a gradual fading of the hotspot to the outside without annoying tint shifts.
And the output at maximum setting does not disappoint either, using a charged 30Q battery, 3 seconds after switch-on (the luxmeter in my sphere takes 3 seconds to adjust the reading after a large output change) I measured 4850 djozz-lumen, after 12 seconds the temperature-protection kicked in, the light was at 4620 lm then.
You have far more patience than I djozz. Well done on the mod. :+1:
Great! Now we only need MCPCBs for D4 and Luxeon V. And for triples with Carclo 10507. And …
I’m still waiting for triple mcpcb’s for the XHP-70.2. Slice the domes off, drop a CUTE 3 over the top and fill the head of an X6 with copper, the tube with 2 18350’s and let her rip! 
Nice patience Jos, hope it was worth it to you in the long run. 
Nice work Djozz! And nice results.
I had a host Eagle Eye X6 sitting here waiting for a triple build, got to looking at it and decided to use the big copper heat sink I designed for a quad to fit this light, but not in a quad build.
Since I swapped out the high CRI XHP-70 K4 3A in my Intimidator last night, that nice emitter was free. Decided to use it with the 35mm optic from Cutter designed to go with the big Cree.
Took the head of the X6 and the copper sink, along with the optic and emitter out to the shop and carved the chunk of copper to fit the materials at hand.
Came in and dug around in my parts on the work table and found a MTN FET driver already Zener modified and with a brass post on the spring pad, just tall enough to clear the retaining ring, plugged it all in and presto!
A nice XHP-70 pocket rocket, courtesy of my Aspire 18350 1300mAh cells…
1. 0.34A for 152.49 lumens
2. 0.51A for 287.04 lumens
3. 0.77A for 405.03 lumens
4. 1.34A for 645.15 lumens
5. 2.53A for 1107.45 lumens
6. 5.20A for 2294.25 lumens
7. 7.97A for 3543.15 lumens
Big floody hotspot, no donut holes, nice color but it doesn’t seem high CRI, the optic material seems to tint it somewhat, probably a Khatod as they seem to do that. All in all, not a bad little monster.
It is the highest output D4 that you made, right?
Yes, not that I made a whole series.
My green D4 has 3500K 92CRI 219C’s, so less output than any of the D4’s stock, my black D4 with the last leds that I swapped out now, XP-L2 90CRI 4000K, put out 4300lm at start-up, 3800lm at 16 seconds.
Maybe this D4 with the LuxeonV’s is the brightest D4 to date? Or not: if someone modded a D4 with low CRI high binned XP-L2’s it may go higher than mine.
Awesome high cri pocket rocket Dale !!
That is a nice addition to the X6 collection Dale, more special than a triple would be.
Thanks guys, this one makes 14 X6’s, tried to make them all different from each other. In that 14 are two SS with Cu pills (one stock, one a triple), one full copper (Nichia NVS333A ultraviolet), and a Titanium from Rey (triple XHP-50.2). 3 have extension tubes and run XHP-70 or MT-G2 emitters. One is an SBT-70 on a hefty copper pill (the one like this newest that was designed for a quad, have an Illumination Machines 35mm faceted reflector in that one) The others are variations on triples or quads and 2 have a more normal build, one with XP-L2.
Running out of ways to build em. lol One of the triples has a titanium tube from Rey’s lights, it was for an 18350 but I extended it with a stripped 18350 Convoy tube.
Also have an aspheric X5, a warm white X5, and a stubby X5 running on an 14250 cell. And of course the 2 full copper X5’s that are in the matched sets. So 20 of my 140 are in the X6/X5 family.
Will have to get some more X6 hosts to be able to experiment further, thinking I really need a triple XHP-70.2…. always wondered how a triple SBT-70 would do, might be hard to find em now. Maybe I should build a quad UV light… hmmm, there still seem to be variations I haven’t covered.
Lexel, how’d you go about getting the emitter shelf out of the tube on the G35? I have broken the glue bond on the head, haven’t disassembled it further but would like to gain access to the driver…