Where to buy good quality 16340 batteries for On The Road M3 Flashlight???

Just remembered the Windyfire brand market its cells by themselves: http://www.windyfire.com/windyfire-imr-16340-600mah-3a-button-2pcs.html

http://www.windyfire.com/windyfire-imr-16340-600mah-37v-3a.html -> In the past you had to ask for a cheap shipping quote. They may still do it for those of you outside of the countries listed in the above link.

Cheers

And the plot thickens :smiley:

Thanks for the test Jerommel and the heads up on their site Barkuti!

Letā€™s see if the PkCell and the Lumintop worth a try. It they are nice, why not?
If they are not, Windyfire may be an optionā€¦or the Trustfire IMRā€¦or the AWT IMRā€¦or the On The Road :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:

Okay, i calculated the internal resistance of one of my PKcells, i think i did it right.

The Voltage of the cell was 3.5 V without load.
I put on a load with a 1.35 Ī© resistor, giving a Voltage of 3.2 Volts over the resistor, I=U:R so the current was 3.2 V : 1.35 Ī© = 2.37 A
Now i can calculate the total resistance. R=U:I so R = 3.5 V : 2.37 A = 1.47 Ī©
Subtract the 1.35 Ī© from that, so 1.47 - 1.35 = 0.12 Ohm or 120mĪ©

When I (current) is 2.3 A (M3 turbo mode) P (power) wasted as heat in the battery is P=IĀ²Ć—R ā€”> IĀ² = 5.29 ā€”> 5.29 Ɨ 0.12 Ī© = 0.63 Watt heating up the battery, which is nothing to worry about i.m.o.

Anyway, with Ri=120mĪ© this is not a high drain cell at allā€¦

PS: The numbers could be off by 15% (or something) due to my equipment.

Unfortunately the batteries got to me first from AliExpress, even though I ordered the OTR M3 from GearBest at least a good few days before the batteries. Hopefully the M3 will turn up next week. :wink:

I know nothing about numbers ( :person_facepalming: ) but from your measurements it seems that for lights like the OTR M3, or an Olight S1R, it wouldnā€™t be a good battery mainly specially to use the brightest levels, right?

Also, theoretically, it would perform worst than - examples - the AWT IMR , the Windyfire IMR, and the Trustfire IMR, (all tested by HKJ), am I correct?

Thanks again for your work and results on this :wink:

It will be okay up to 1.5 Amperes or something.
With a linear driver thatā€™s approximately 6 Watts, which is usually around 650 Lumen from an XM-L2 (correct me if iā€™m wrong, anybody)

Yes, probably.

I had to know myself too. :slight_smile:
I guess we should wait for a next generation 16340, similar to the Aspire 18350.
Probably just a matter of time.

Thanks again for the explanation Jerommel! :+1:
If I understood correctly, they will run ā€œwellā€ except in the highest modes (that are above 600lm in the lights I mentioned)!

Hum, getting a ā€œAspire IMR 16340ā€ would be pretty nice :sunglasses:
I like small lights (16340 sized), and I donā€™t have more because I want to have them with decent batteries and thatā€™s being hard to get (maybe Iā€™m too picky about that, I admit)!

BTW, another confirmation that the OTR battery is nice was made by djozz some time ago, here: What did you mod today? - #1213 by djozz

I guess the OTR cell has to be nice when they sell it with a 900 Lumen light.

I got a comment on my Ri test in another thread:

I did not know this, so i will repeat the test at 4.0 Volts and on 3.7 Volts (without load) and see what it does.

Yes, the IR is supposed to be measured on a fully charged cell.

Sorry fellows but, after observing lots of li-ion cell discharge curves:

  • When a cell is fully or nearly fully charged and/or nearly discharged the discharge curve slope is higher. Measuring internal resistance when cells are close to full or empty is just wrong.
  • When a cell is discharged it heats up proportionally to the square of the current flow. This usually means the cell's internal resistance diminishes a little bit.
  • In every other aspect, li-ion cells' internal resistance is fairly constant.

Cheers :-)

Hmmā€¦ from the ownerā€™s manual of my Opus charger:

I think that however you decide to test, the key is to be consistent and measure all your cells at the same charge/voltage level so that you have apples to apples comparison.

I would say itā€™s best to measure Ri at the average Voltage, which is 3.7 Volts (without load).
This is in the middle of the range the battery is used in most of the times.

If you test internal resistance to find out the maximum possible output with full batteries in a hotrod light, you should naturally do it with full batteries. On some lipos, the Ri decreases significantly when the battery is discharged and heats up.

Well, since this thread is more or less about the OTR M3, which (probably) has a linear CC driver with maximum current of 2.3 Amperes on ā€˜turboā€™, it should actually first be established how much voltage it needs to push 2.3 Amperes through the XM-L2.
Iā€™m not even sure how much voltage this particular generation of XM-L2 needs to draw 2.3 Amperes.

what are the lumen levels and mode sequence of each light:
Jaxmnve M3
OTR M3

Do both lights have built in over discharge protection, (which means you do not need to use protected cells)

Does anyone have beam shots comparing the Cool White and Neutral white?

Since both are low CRI, the choice of Color temperature should be based on whether you plan to use the light when your brain is white balanced to a Cool White environment, or a Neutral white environment.

Neutral white that is Low CRI does NOT improve Color Rendering, because it outputs more Yellow and less Blue than cool white. However Neutral White Low CRI does NOT produce more Red.

since the OP is talking about wanting the most brightness, Imo he should buy Cool Whiteā€¦ (Im not sure which one he ordered after all)

I am very happy with my Keepower IMR Unprotected cells.

But the discharge rate of the cell may not matter IF the M3 modes are Regulatedā€¦ Are they?

Could be my perception, but I certainly see an improvement in color rendering using warmer tints, also with low cri leds.

from the Freeme review of the M3
Cool white low CRI:

Neutral white low CRI

Neutral white High CRI

it can be difficult to notice differences in CRI unless we look at things that contain Red

one of the most practical examples is to shine a low CRI and High CRI light on the palm of your hand, this example is from twisted raven

recently I discovered that broiled chicken is also very good for demonstrating the difference

here is another example from dark sucks.com

however, I do not have any Neutral White Low CRI lights myself, so I cannot compare a 5C XM-L2 to a 4000k N219b myself. If you have both, maybe try taking some photos of your hand with them. Try to use daylight white balance for both photos.

here is another example
natural daylight:

Low CRI:

High CRI:

In any case, High CRI is not an option with the M3, you can only choose the color temperature, Cool white or Neutral white

I personally avoid Cool White unless I am using the light during daylight hours, when my brain is white balanced to daylight. But I mostly use my flashlights after dark, so Cool white is not my preferenceā€¦

each person has different needsā€¦ because they use their lights in different ambient light scenarios

my solution is to buy some of each kind and swap lights depending on the environmentā€¦

I think you are right, neutral white low cri does look like it has better red than cool white low cri, not as good as neutral white high CRI, but definitely better than cool white

Cool White:

Neutral White:

the red does look less brown with neutral white, even low CRI, the other colors also look more realistic to me with the Neutral than with the Cool

thanks for helping me learn to be more open minded :slight_smile:

since Im a color snob, I agree with you that the two choices of LED for the M3, I would pick the 5C Color Temperature.

Same here, but to me, the light has to be brighter. Cooler CTs are more jarring to the eyes, so even a little light has its own shock-value, but warmer CTs are smoother and less of an assault on the senses, so I kinda ā€œneedā€ more of it.