Unfortunately the batteries got to me first from AliExpress, even though I ordered the OTR M3 from GearBest at least a good few days before the batteries. Hopefully the M3 will turn up next week. 
I know nothing about numbers ( :person_facepalming: ) but from your measurements it seems that for lights like the OTR M3, or an Olight S1R, it wouldn’t be a good battery mainly specially to use the brightest levels, right?
Also, theoretically, it would perform worst than - examples - the AWT IMR , the Windyfire IMR, and the Trustfire IMR, (all tested by HKJ), am I correct?
Thanks again for your work and results on this
It will be okay up to 1.5 Amperes or something.
With a linear driver that’s approximately 6 Watts, which is usually around 650 Lumen from an XM-L2 (correct me if i’m wrong, anybody)
Yes, probably.
I had to know myself too. 
I guess we should wait for a next generation 16340, similar to the Aspire 18350.
Probably just a matter of time.
Thanks again for the explanation Jerommel! :+1:
If I understood correctly, they will run “well” except in the highest modes (that are above 600lm in the lights I mentioned)!
Hum, getting a “Aspire IMR 16340” would be pretty nice :sunglasses:
I like small lights (16340 sized), and I don’t have more because I want to have them with decent batteries and that’s being hard to get (maybe I’m too picky about that, I admit)!
BTW, another confirmation that the OTR battery is nice was made by djozz some time ago, here: What did you mod today? - #1213 by djozz
I guess the OTR cell has to be nice when they sell it with a 900 Lumen light.
I got a comment on my Ri test in another thread:
I did not know this, so i will repeat the test at 4.0 Volts and on 3.7 Volts (without load) and see what it does.
Yes, the IR is supposed to be measured on a fully charged cell.
Sorry fellows but, after observing lots of li-ion cell discharge curves:
- When a cell is fully or nearly fully charged and/or nearly discharged the discharge curve slope is higher. Measuring internal resistance when cells are close to full or empty is just wrong.
- When a cell is discharged it heats up proportionally to the square of the current flow. This usually means the cell's internal resistance diminishes a little bit.
- In every other aspect, li-ion cells' internal resistance is fairly constant.
Cheers :-)
Hmm… from the owner’s manual of my Opus charger:
I think that however you decide to test, the key is to be consistent and measure all your cells at the same charge/voltage level so that you have apples to apples comparison.
I would say it’s best to measure Ri at the average Voltage, which is 3.7 Volts (without load).
This is in the middle of the range the battery is used in most of the times.
If you test internal resistance to find out the maximum possible output with full batteries in a hotrod light, you should naturally do it with full batteries. On some lipos, the Ri decreases significantly when the battery is discharged and heats up.
Well, since this thread is more or less about the OTR M3, which (probably) has a linear CC driver with maximum current of 2.3 Amperes on ‘turbo’, it should actually first be established how much voltage it needs to push 2.3 Amperes through the XM-L2.
I’m not even sure how much voltage this particular generation of XM-L2 needs to draw 2.3 Amperes.
what are the lumen levels and mode sequence of each light:
Jaxmnve M3
OTR M3
Do both lights have built in over discharge protection, (which means you do not need to use protected cells)
Does anyone have beam shots comparing the Cool White and Neutral white?
Since both are low CRI, the choice of Color temperature should be based on whether you plan to use the light when your brain is white balanced to a Cool White environment, or a Neutral white environment.
Neutral white that is Low CRI does NOT improve Color Rendering, because it outputs more Yellow and less Blue than cool white. However Neutral White Low CRI does NOT produce more Red.
since the OP is talking about wanting the most brightness, Imo he should buy Cool White… (Im not sure which one he ordered after all)
I am very happy with my Keepower IMR Unprotected cells.
But the discharge rate of the cell may not matter IF the M3 modes are Regulated… Are they?
Could be my perception, but I certainly see an improvement in color rendering using warmer tints, also with low cri leds.
from the Freeme review of the M3
Cool white low CRI:
Neutral white low CRI
Neutral white High CRI
it can be difficult to notice differences in CRI unless we look at things that contain Red
one of the most practical examples is to shine a low CRI and High CRI light on the palm of your hand, this example is from twisted raven
recently I discovered that broiled chicken is also very good for demonstrating the difference
here is another example from dark sucks.com
however, I do not have any Neutral White Low CRI lights myself, so I cannot compare a 5C XM-L2 to a 4000k N219b myself. If you have both, maybe try taking some photos of your hand with them. Try to use daylight white balance for both photos.
here is another example
natural daylight:
Low CRI:
High CRI:
In any case, High CRI is not an option with the M3, you can only choose the color temperature, Cool white or Neutral white
I personally avoid Cool White unless I am using the light during daylight hours, when my brain is white balanced to daylight. But I mostly use my flashlights after dark, so Cool white is not my preference…
each person has different needs… because they use their lights in different ambient light scenarios
my solution is to buy some of each kind and swap lights depending on the environment…
I think you are right, neutral white low cri does look like it has better red than cool white low cri, not as good as neutral white high CRI, but definitely better than cool white
Cool White:
Neutral White:
the red does look less brown with neutral white, even low CRI, the other colors also look more realistic to me with the Neutral than with the Cool
thanks for helping me learn to be more open minded
since Im a color snob, I agree with you that the two choices of LED for the M3, I would pick the 5C Color Temperature.
Same here, but to me, the light has to be brighter. Cooler CTs are more jarring to the eyes, so even a little light has its own shock-value, but warmer CTs are smoother and less of an assault on the senses, so I kinda “need” more of it.
also agree, as lights go up in CRI, they also tend to go down in brightness
as lights go down in Color Temperature, even if they don’t go up in CRI, they also tend to go down in brightness
That’s probably your perception or just your preference.
Low CRI LEDs simply lack deep red, even rosy tinted warm white ones.
And especially with warm white LEDs i really miss the deep red that you would expect from a warm white light source.
With cool / neutral white low CRI LEDs (like Cree 3A tint) i don’t really miss the deeper red too much.
But this is perhaps my perception or preference.
This is apparently around 3.3 Volts, according to TA’s testing.
No wonder the current drops when my PKcell is discharged below 3.6 Volts (without load).