Having already reworked my big Olight SR-90 Intimidator a while back with an XHP-70 and the big Illuminations Machines diamond facet 5-90 reflector with a high CRI K bin, I wasn’t all that pleased with the lower output from that emitter. So I swapped it out with a new style 70.2 a few days ago. This was an N4 emitter in 5700K tint, and while the tint was still nice, the light was still “only” making 5300 lumens. So I got a new P2 bin, also in 5700K tint, from Richard. Swapped them out last night and checked output… simply swapping in the new P2 got the lumens up to 8038! Nice!
(I have modified the battery compartment in this light as well, instead of the proprietary pack I’m using a pair of 32650’s. These were partially used and well rested and still showed the 8038 lumens, need to charge em back up and see what’s shakin.)
Today my black D4 got its third set of leds. I took out the 4000K 90CRI XP-L2’s (right on picture), they were too green to be acceptable, and swapped in 4000K 70CRI Luxeon V’s (left on picture above).
The reflow was the most tedious annoying reflow I have ever done, because of the non-matching footprint every fraction of a mm wrong resulted in a short, from + to central pad or from – to central pad. All 4 leds needed exact positioning with the exact right amount of solder, I must have repositioned leds 30 times before I got it right with no shorts to the central pad (and thus ground). I wonder how safe this light is actually, the solder is solid of course, and in a TIR flashlight there is no force on the leds at all, but a battery short is that fraction of a mm away, with no collapsable springs in the D4.
But let’s not think unpleasant thoughts and have a look at the results. The beam is very nice, no square stuff and a gradual fading of the hotspot to the outside without annoying tint shifts.
And the output at maximum setting does not disappoint either, using a charged 30Q battery, 3 seconds after switch-on (the luxmeter in my sphere takes 3 seconds to adjust the reading after a large output change) I measured 4850 djozz-lumen, after 12 seconds the temperature-protection kicked in, the light was at 4620 lm then.
I’m still waiting for triple mcpcb’s for the XHP-70.2. Slice the domes off, drop a CUTE 3 over the top and fill the head of an X6 with copper, the tube with 2 18350’s and let her rip!
Nice patience Jos, hope it was worth it to you in the long run.
I had a host Eagle Eye X6 sitting here waiting for a triple build, got to looking at it and decided to use the big copper heat sink I designed for a quad to fit this light, but not in a quad build.
Since I swapped out the high CRIXHP-70 K4 3A in my Intimidator last night, that nice emitter was free. Decided to use it with the 35mm optic from Cutter designed to go with the big Cree.
Took the head of the X6 and the copper sink, along with the optic and emitter out to the shop and carved the chunk of copper to fit the materials at hand.
Came in and dug around in my parts on the work table and found a MTNFET driver already Zener modified and with a brass post on the spring pad, just tall enough to clear the retaining ring, plugged it all in and presto!
A nice XHP-70 pocket rocket, courtesy of my Aspire 18350 1300mAh cells…
1. 0.34A for 152.49 lumens
2. 0.51A for 287.04 lumens
3. 0.77A for 405.03 lumens
4. 1.34A for 645.15 lumens
5. 2.53A for 1107.45 lumens
6. 5.20A for 2294.25 lumens
7. 7.97A for 3543.15 lumens
Big floody hotspot, no donut holes, nice color but it doesn’t seem high CRI, the optic material seems to tint it somewhat, probably a Khatod as they seem to do that. All in all, not a bad little monster.
Today my black D4 got its third set of leds. I took out the 4000K 90CRI XP-L2’s (right on picture), they were too green to be acceptable, and swapped in 4000K 70CRI Luxeon V’s (left on picture above).
The reflow was the most tedious annoying reflow I have ever done, because of the non-matching footprint every fraction of a mm wrong resulted in a short, from + to central pad or from – to central pad. All 4 leds needed exact positioning with the exact right amount of solder, I must have repositioned leds 30 times before I got it right with no shorts to the central pad (and thus ground). I wonder how safe this light is actually, the solder is solid of course, and in a TIR flashlight there is no force on the leds at all, but a battery short is that fraction of a mm away, with no collapsable springs in the D4.
But let’s not think unpleasant thoughts and have a look at the results. The beam is very nice, no square stuff and a gradual fading of the hotspot to the outside without annoying tint shifts.
And the output at maximum setting does not disappoint either, using a charged 30Q battery, 3 seconds after switch-on (the luxmeter in my sphere takes 3 seconds to adjust the reading after a large output change) I measured 4850 djozz-lumen, after 12 seconds the temperature-protection kicked in, the light was at 4620 lm then.
My green D4 has 3500K 92CRI 219C’s, so less output than any of the D4’s stock, my black D4 with the last leds that I swapped out now, XP-L2 90CRI 4000K, put out 4300lm at start-up, 3800lm at 16 seconds.
Maybe this D4 with the LuxeonV’s is the brightest D4 to date? Or not: if someone modded a D4 with low CRI high binned XP-L2’s it may go higher than mine.
Thanks guys, this one makes 14 ×6’s, tried to make them all different from each other. In that 14 are two SS with Cu pills (one stock, one a triple), one full copper (Nichia NVS333A ultraviolet), and a Titanium from Rey (triple XHP-50.2). 3 have extension tubes and run XHP-70 or MT-G2 emitters. One is an SBT-70 on a hefty copper pill (the one like this newest that was designed for a quad, have an Illumination Machines 35mm faceted reflector in that one) The others are variations on triples or quads and 2 have a more normal build, one with XP-L2.
Running out of ways to build em. lol One of the triples has a titanium tube from Rey’s lights, it was for an 18350 but I extended it with a stripped 18350 Convoy tube.
Also have an aspheric X5, a warm white X5, and a stubby X5 running on an 14250 cell. And of course the 2 full copper X5’s that are in the matched sets. So 20 of my 140 are in the X6/X5 family.
Will have to get some more X6 hosts to be able to experiment further, thinking I really need a triple XHP-70.2…. always wondered how a triple SBT-70 would do, might be hard to find em now. Maybe I should build a quad UV light… hmmm, there still seem to be variations I haven’t covered.
Lexel, how’d you go about getting the emitter shelf out of the tube on the G35? I have broken the glue bond on the head, haven’t disassembled it further but would like to gain access to the driver…
Lexel, how’d you go about getting the emitter shelf out of the tube on the G35? I have broken the glue bond on the head, haven’t disassembled it further but would like to gain access to the driver…
I cut threads in the 2 holes
Then used long screws and a piece of wood to pull it out
They had it seriously glued didn’t they? I got the head broken loose but it took quite a lot of heat. I cheated though, mounted it in my lathe’s chuck and ran a torch over the thread area, then used my Boa Constrictor strap wrench to turn the body.
I was looking for some separation, needed the reflector to be seated in the head but a bit higher on the emitter. Worked, and for now I’m quite happy with it’s performance. I had already considered the “dent puller” technique to remove the pressed in shelf. Other fish to fry for now though…
Well I didn’t want to start a topic of its own just for something kind of off the beaten path , so I thought I would post here………….
I modded a piece of wood…..lol
Yea I said wood , plank , board , whatever it may be in your neck of the woods.
Seriously though I was just thinking of ways to take a little less space with my light collection but still have them accessible and in view I had 2 different ideas , with the first taking a little less room and the second one taking up half the space as having my lights just sitting on a shelf beside each other.
Of course I will need 3 or 4 more of each of these to get most of my lights consolidated in a smaller space , but these were a start.
Here is the “chunk” of Oak I did for only 3 lights…….
and then Here is a couple of pictures of the “shelf” I made that can be used in 2 different configurations , 1 for just hanging the lights with a cigar grip , or tactical ring and 2 using it as a shelf and a light hanger combined.
And the missus knows? I rely heavily on my stashes.
If SWMBO saw a shelf like that in our house, she would retaliate with a (not-so-budget) shoe binge buying expedition.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
And the missus knows? I rely heavily on my stashes.
If SWMBO saw a shelf like that in our house, she would retaliate with a (not-so-budget) shoe binge buying expedition.
Haha yea , not only does she know , but she usually checks out my lights when I get them and has a number of lights herself that she has laid claim to before I even had a chance to get a review finished on them.
The red cedar is my all time favorite wood I think. Love the smell of raw Cedar and when you put a coat of Polyurethane on the outside of a piece it just really makes it pop.
If I can reign in my flashlight spending habit, I might have to commission you to build me a corner cabinet with the Cedar, glass inserts in the face (door) and a light inside with maybe mirror panels in the corner sides to reflect light and show the lights in a 3D perspective. That’d be cool, brass knobs on the door and brass hinges on the red wood. Dang, what am I talking myself into here?!!!
I am sure it could be done though……just have to get me some more cedar here to start drying good before I try to make something like that. I would hate to put it together and then have something crack 6 months or a year down the road from the wood drying out.
Robo, do you or does anyone watching here know if the blue bezel on an Olight S1A unscrews or is it a press fit?
I got a beautiful little solid copper S1A with Rose Gold PVD coating and they put a cool white XM-L2 in it, coming through the TIR it’s got a slight green tint. I’d like to put an XP-L V6 3D in it. Don’t want to mess up the gorgeous finish though, so I thought I’d ask first…
I thought it might the case, thanks Bobby. Not really what I wanted to hear but I guess that’s better than threaded and glued tight as a tick on a hound dog.
Now I have to decide if the color is off enough to make me attack this gorgeous light…
It is doable without damaging anything, at least i successfully opened my S1 Baton and S-mini, the S-mini was rose gold version and it did not have single scratch after my work to it.
There is video from a BLF member Thomas X3 on youtube on how to remove the bezel without doing damage to the light.
It is doable without damaging anything, at least i successfully opened my S1 Baton and S-mini, the S-mini was rose gold version and it did not have single scratch after my work to it.
There is video from a BLF member Thomas X3 on youtube on how to remove the bezel without doing damage to the light.
I used a tough little knife, Buck Strider Mini, and worked around til the bezel was loose enough to remove. Filed down a 16mm Noctigon til it fit in place of the stock aluminum mcpcb, then used a 365nm UV light to locate a preferred XM-L2 tint in my bins… as it so turned out I removed one of the 4 XM-L2 U2’s that came in my Nitecore TM16 (it has XHP-35’s now)
Thinned the Noctigon a bit to match the stock thickness, leaving it a hair tall…. bezel and TIR went back in nicely and it now has a near perfect neutral tint, probably a 1D to make a guess at it (Nitecore doesn’t specify tint bin)
My mom’s pearl white Buick LaCrosse looks splendid in the light from this S1A now so I’m happy with it.
No scratches, no gap, looks stock but has the nicer tint. A win for sure. Thanks for clearing up the style of bezel for me, appreciate it.
Beam before modification… the plant light is a Cree COB rated at 93CRI for comparison sakes…
The solid copper S1A in Rose Gold PVA…after the mod…
And the beam after the mod, much nicer color! The picture on the wall is a 16×20 canvas of my son when he was little.
The ceiling tiles, for white balance perception, are white styrofoam.
I have an Astrolux SC that really like but was not using it because is to heavy for my taste, so modded with a xhp-70.2 NW from KD, a MTN Fet driver and two windyfire 14500 IMR.
Cut the threads from the tailcap and soldered two pieces of copper plumbing tube. Inner/outer diamenter and lenth are perfect fit, just plug and solder.
8.7A startup and 3.4A at 30sec nearly burning hot.
Soldering: phone camera show pink but it was really red.
Having already reworked my big Olight SR-90 Intimidator a while back with an XHP-70 and the big Illuminations Machines diamond facet 5-90 reflector with a high CRI K bin, I wasn’t all that pleased with the lower output from that emitter. So I swapped it out with a new style 70.2 a few days ago. This was an N4 emitter in 5700K tint, and while the tint was still nice, the light was still “only” making 5300 lumens. So I got a new P2 bin, also in 5700K tint, from Richard. Swapped them out last night and checked output… simply swapping in the new P2 got the lumens up to 8038! Nice!
(I have modified the battery compartment in this light as well, instead of the proprietary pack I’m using a pair of 32650’s. These were partially used and well rested and still showed the 8038 lumens, need to charge em back up and see what’s shakin.)
Today my black D4 got its third set of leds. I took out the 4000K 90CRI XP-L2’s (right on picture), they were too green to be acceptable, and swapped in 4000K 70CRI Luxeon V’s (left on picture above).
The reflow was the most tedious annoying reflow I have ever done, because of the non-matching footprint every fraction of a mm wrong resulted in a short, from + to central pad or from – to central pad. All 4 leds needed exact positioning with the exact right amount of solder, I must have repositioned leds 30 times before I got it right with no shorts to the central pad (and thus ground). I wonder how safe this light is actually, the solder is solid of course, and in a TIR flashlight there is no force on the leds at all, but a battery short is that fraction of a mm away, with no collapsable springs in the D4.
But let’s not think unpleasant thoughts and have a look at the results. The beam is very nice, no square stuff and a gradual fading of the hotspot to the outside without annoying tint shifts.
And the output at maximum setting does not disappoint either, using a charged 30Q battery, 3 seconds after switch-on (the luxmeter in my sphere takes 3 seconds to adjust the reading after a large output change) I measured 4850 djozz-lumen, after 12 seconds the temperature-protection kicked in, the light was at 4620 lm then.
link to djozz tests
You have far more patience than I djozz. Well done on the mod.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Great! Now we only need MCPCBs for D4 and Luxeon V. And for triples with Carclo 10507. And …
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
I’m still waiting for triple mcpcb’s for the XHP-70.2. Slice the domes off, drop a CUTE 3 over the top and fill the head of an X6 with copper, the tube with 2 18350’s and let her rip!
Nice patience Jos, hope it was worth it to you in the long run.
Nice work Djozz! And nice results.
I had a host Eagle Eye X6 sitting here waiting for a triple build, got to looking at it and decided to use the big copper heat sink I designed for a quad to fit this light, but not in a quad build.
Since I swapped out the high CRI XHP-70 K4 3A in my Intimidator last night, that nice emitter was free. Decided to use it with the 35mm optic from Cutter designed to go with the big Cree.
Took the head of the X6 and the copper sink, along with the optic and emitter out to the shop and carved the chunk of copper to fit the materials at hand.
Came in and dug around in my parts on the work table and found a MTN FET driver already Zener modified and with a brass post on the spring pad, just tall enough to clear the retaining ring, plugged it all in and presto!
A nice XHP-70 pocket rocket, courtesy of my Aspire 18350 1300mAh cells…
1. 0.34A for 152.49 lumens
2. 0.51A for 287.04 lumens
3. 0.77A for 405.03 lumens
4. 1.34A for 645.15 lumens
5. 2.53A for 1107.45 lumens
6. 5.20A for 2294.25 lumens
7. 7.97A for 3543.15 lumens
Big floody hotspot, no donut holes, nice color but it doesn’t seem high CRI, the optic material seems to tint it somewhat, probably a Khatod as they seem to do that. All in all, not a bad little monster.
It is the highest output D4 that you made, right?
Yes, not that I made a whole series.
My green D4 has 3500K 92CRI 219C’s, so less output than any of the D4’s stock, my black D4 with the last leds that I swapped out now, XP-L2 90CRI 4000K, put out 4300lm at start-up, 3800lm at 16 seconds.
Maybe this D4 with the LuxeonV’s is the brightest D4 to date? Or not: if someone modded a D4 with low CRI high binned XP-L2’s it may go higher than mine.
link to djozz tests
Awesome high cri pocket rocket Dale !!
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
That is a nice addition to the X6 collection Dale, more special than a triple would be.
link to djozz tests
Thanks guys, this one makes 14 ×6’s, tried to make them all different from each other.
In that 14 are two SS with Cu pills (one stock, one a triple), one full copper (Nichia NVS333A ultraviolet), and a Titanium from Rey (triple XHP-50.2). 3 have extension tubes and run XHP-70 or MT-G2 emitters. One is an SBT-70 on a hefty copper pill (the one like this newest that was designed for a quad, have an Illumination Machines 35mm faceted reflector in that one) The others are variations on triples or quads and 2 have a more normal build, one with XP-L2.
Running out of ways to build em. lol One of the triples has a titanium tube from Rey’s lights, it was for an 18350 but I extended it with a stripped 18350 Convoy tube.
Also have an aspheric X5, a warm white X5, and a stubby X5 running on an 14250 cell. And of course the 2 full copper X5’s that are in the matched sets. So 20 of my 140 are in the X6/X5 family.
Will have to get some more X6 hosts to be able to experiment further, thinking I really need a triple XHP-70.2…. always wondered how a triple SBT-70 would do, might be hard to find em now. Maybe I should build a quad UV light… hmmm, there still seem to be variations I haven’t covered.
Lexel, how’d you go about getting the emitter shelf out of the tube on the G35? I have broken the glue bond on the head, haven’t disassembled it further but would like to gain access to the driver…
I cut threads in the 2 holes
Then used long screws and a piece of wood to pull it out
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
They had it seriously glued didn’t they? I got the head broken loose but it took quite a lot of heat. I cheated though, mounted it in my lathe’s chuck and ran a torch over the thread area, then used my Boa Constrictor strap wrench to turn the body.
I was looking for some separation, needed the reflector to be seated in the head but a bit higher on the emitter. Worked, and for now I’m quite happy with it’s performance. I had already considered the “dent puller” technique to remove the pressed in shelf. Other fish to fry for now though…
Thanks for sharing your technique.
Well I didn’t want to start a topic of its own just for something kind of off the beaten path , so I thought I would post here………….
I modded a piece of wood…..lol
Yea I said wood , plank , board , whatever it may be in your neck of the woods.
Seriously though I was just thinking of ways to take a little less space with my light collection but still have them accessible and in view I had 2 different ideas , with the first taking a little less room and the second one taking up half the space as having my lights just sitting on a shelf beside each other.
Of course I will need 3 or 4 more of each of these to get most of my lights consolidated in a smaller space , but these were a start.
Here is the “chunk” of Oak I did for only 3 lights…….
and then Here is a couple of pictures of the “shelf” I made that can be used in 2 different configurations , 1 for just hanging the lights with a cigar grip , or tactical ring and 2 using it as a shelf and a light hanger combined.
Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:
Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / Maxtoch Xsword / M1 Archer *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / TC15 / TC15 CE *** ### Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini , M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / ### Thorfire /// PF03 , PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 , VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A , S1 , VG15 S , TK 18 //// ##WowTac// A4 , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC
And the missus knows? I rely heavily on my stashes.
If SWMBO saw a shelf like that in our house, she would retaliate with a (not-so-budget) shoe binge buying expedition.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Haha yea , not only does she know , but she usually checks out my lights when I get them and has a number of lights herself that she has laid claim to before I even had a chance to get a review finished on them.
Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:
Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / Maxtoch Xsword / M1 Archer *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / TC15 / TC15 CE *** ### Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini , M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / ### Thorfire /// PF03 , PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 , VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A , S1 , VG15 S , TK 18 //// ##WowTac// A4 , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC
Nicely done robo, great way to condense the collection while still keeping every one of them readily available!
Might have to start thinking about a “flash cabinet” in red cedar.
Thanks Dale.
The red cedar is my all time favorite wood I think. Love the smell of raw Cedar and when you put a coat of Polyurethane on the outside of a piece it just really makes it pop.
Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:
Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / Maxtoch Xsword / M1 Archer *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / TC15 / TC15 CE *** ### Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini , M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / ### Thorfire /// PF03 , PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 , VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A , S1 , VG15 S , TK 18 //// ##WowTac// A4 , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC
If I can reign in my flashlight spending habit, I might have to commission you to build me a corner cabinet with the Cedar, glass inserts in the face (door) and a light inside with maybe mirror panels in the corner sides to reflect light and show the lights in a 3D perspective. That’d be cool, brass knobs on the door and brass hinges on the red wood. Dang, what am I talking myself into here?!!!
haha…..what are you talking US into?
I am sure it could be done though……just have to get me some more cedar here to start drying good before I try to make something like that. I would hate to put it together and then have something crack 6 months or a year down the road from the wood drying out.
Click any link to see MY REVIEWS:
Maxtoch M24 Sniper / Maxtoch 2X Shooter (2016 factory dedomed) , 2X - XHP 70.2 / Maxtoch Xsword / M1 Archer *** ### ThruNite // Archer 2A V3 / Ti4T / TN4A HI / TH10 / TH20 / C2 Mini / TC12 V2 / T01 / , neutron 2C V3 , TC20 / Catapult V6 / TC15 / TC15 CE *** ### Olight // H2R Nova , S10R III / S30R III / H1 Nova / H1 R Nova / X7 Marauder , PL Mini , M2R warrior //// Orca T11 / Nitecore EC20 / BLF A6 / Custom Convoy C8 / Lixada Triple 3800LM / Lixada 1000LM / LuxStone X30 / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / ### Thorfire /// PF03 , PF04 , Upgraded PF04 , C8 , S-50 , VG-10 , VG25 , C8s , BL30 , TK4A , S1 , VG15 S , TK 18 //// ##WowTac// A4 , A1 (original) , A2 headlamp , A3 //// Acebeam L16 /// Massdrop (Lumintop) Brass EDC
Robo, do you or does anyone watching here know if the blue bezel on an Olight S1A unscrews or is it a press fit?
I got a beautiful little solid copper S1A with Rose Gold PVD coating and they put a cool white XM-L2 in it, coming through the TIR it’s got a slight green tint. I’d like to put an XP-L V6 3D in it. Don’t want to mess up the gorgeous finish though, so I thought I’d ask first…
It is probably same fitment as the S1 Baton and S-Mini, on those lights the bezel is press fit.
Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43
I thought it might the case, thanks Bobby. Not really what I wanted to hear but I guess that’s better than threaded and glued tight as a tick on a hound dog.
Now I have to decide if the color is off enough to make me attack this gorgeous light…
It is doable without damaging anything, at least i successfully opened my S1 Baton and S-mini, the S-mini was rose gold version and it did not have single scratch after my work to it.
There is video from a BLF member Thomas X3 on youtube on how to remove the bezel without doing damage to the light.
Here is the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hfh7HyBYVC0
Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43
Nice mod on a few chunks of wood robo.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Definitely, and thanks for linking my personal YouTube channel
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My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
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Success!
I used a tough little knife, Buck Strider Mini, and worked around til the bezel was loose enough to remove. Filed down a 16mm Noctigon til it fit in place of the stock aluminum mcpcb, then used a 365nm UV light to locate a preferred XM-L2 tint in my bins… as it so turned out I removed one of the 4 XM-L2 U2’s that came in my Nitecore TM16 (it has XHP-35’s now)
Thinned the Noctigon a bit to match the stock thickness, leaving it a hair tall…. bezel and TIR went back in nicely and it now has a near perfect neutral tint, probably a 1D to make a guess at it (Nitecore doesn’t specify tint bin)
My mom’s pearl white Buick LaCrosse looks splendid in the light from this S1A now so I’m happy with it.
No scratches, no gap, looks stock but has the nicer tint. A win for sure. Thanks for clearing up the style of bezel for me, appreciate it.
Beam before modification… the plant light is a Cree COB rated at 93CRI for comparison sakes…
The solid copper S1A in Rose Gold PVA…after the mod…
And the beam after the mod, much nicer color! The picture on the wall is a 16×20 canvas of my son when he was little.
The ceiling tiles, for white balance perception, are white styrofoam.
I have an Astrolux SC that really like but was not using it because is to heavy for my taste, so modded with a xhp-70.2 NW from KD, a MTN Fet driver and two windyfire 14500 IMR.
Cut the threads from the tailcap and soldered two pieces of copper plumbing tube. Inner/outer diamenter and lenth are perfect fit, just plug and solder.
8.7A startup and 3.4A at 30sec nearly burning hot.
Soldering: phone camera show pink but it was really red.
Final result: love the burned look.
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