LG high CRI LED E2L flashlight-maybe this LED is unknow to everyone..

Thanks Maukka, very interesting!
This is the first LED with a high R12 (deep blue) value, but CRI of only 89-90 instead of 95+. Orange (and green) is dominant in the spectrum. Purple is weakest. Skin probably doesn’t look so great?
It’s also interesting that the color temperature is much lower than stated.

Manufacturers spec the CCT integrated not from the hotspot with optics/reflector. This is the light in an integrating sphere, which is probably within spec considering drive current (E2L on high, edit: color temp is same on mid, tint a bit greener):

Well yes, they measure it straight on, so basically the spill of the flashlight. 800K difference is still a lot though.

Output and tailcap currents:

Low: 19 lumens, 71mA
Mid: 174 lumens, 660mA
High: 589 lumens, 2200mA

Total flashlight efficiency is then about 65lm/W on high.

Yuk! :confounded:

Thanks for testing maukka!
Now I’m not so looking forward anymore receiving the E2L with these leds.
Perhaps these leds work well in a mix with very rosy Nichia leds.

Hmm. Maybe of use in a wide-spectrum light.

Difficult not to agree with Maukka’s evaluation……
…….Hopefully they come packed in air sickness bags

*what happened to Jaxman ?
Did Clemence scarf up all the good Nichias ?

I’m not sure its good to imply that something bad “happened” to Jaxman. They took a chance on a new and unknown LED and I applaud them for that. Taking risks is how awesome new stuff gets found…sometimes. :slight_smile: Its also how a company can set themselves apart from the competition. I mean now we know these emitters don’t have good tint, and we know that because Jaxman took a chance on them. I, for one, appreciate that.

I agree, I bought six of these emitters just to try them out, after seeing them in person, I know I don’t like them, but that isn’t the fault of JAXMAN. The JAXMAN lights are still the same top-notch lights, maybe just skip the LG option.

I applaud them for making the emitters available. Plus, they would still work OK for lantern duty in something that doesn’t have optics.

Thanks for this maukka. I am disappointed by the low R9 of the LED and I am happy for not impulse-buying the E2L even for its low price. To be fair to be LG, Cree’s lineup have consistently low R9 performance and are also known for their green tints. I guess Nichias are a safer (if not safest) choice for general use with reflectors and TIRs.

This is a deal-breaker for me. I am tired of looking at greenish beams and I am quite happy with what Nichia has been giving so far. The only problem with Nichia LEDs is that they are not available in the tint and CRI combination that I am looking for.

The proper industrial nomenclature is barf bag! :laughing: LOL, just playing! :innocent:

Nah, don’t prejudge it.

I disliked the 4C (above the BBL) in the S2+, being too fried-egg of a a beam: too-orange hotspot (nowhere near what I expected 4300K-4500K to be), cool blue spill. My first indication that integrated it’s a nice CT was when I did a ceiling bounce, lighting up a room when the lightbulb blew.

With a TIR instead of reflector, it’s very nice. Comes out a nice peachy-beige tint.

Hey Lightbringer, I have seen enough of your comments to know that you have experience with TIR lenses. May I ask, what kind of TIR are you using on your 4C S2? Where could I find some that would fit S2? I know Simon has them, but I am looking for more of a sample pack to try the different angles, instead of buying 5 of the same. Do you know if the XML type optic will fit over a XPL HI? Thanks

OP, sorry if this is too off-topic.

Yeah, I kinda went on a TIR rampage recently… :smiley:

5? Pfft. I stocked up on standard 20mm TIRs from Amazon, mostly ledworld and uxcell! as sellers. I got mostly the 20pax (each) of different types, some 10pax, from 5° through 60°, and recently of 90° and 120°. Can’t really speak about getting 1-fers of any type in combos. :smiley:

Got a bunch of 26mm TIRs from LEDsupply recently, too. Those were all 1-fers that I got like 2-3 of each or so.

The S2+ will take a standard 20mm with or without the shoe. Without, anything will drop right in and sit flush on the mcpcb. With, eg, the one that has a XM-sized square cutout, will only fit with narrower-angles (pointier) and not the wider-angles (more bowl-shaped). The “bowls” press out more on the little tabs that hold in the TIR. When not pressed out so much, the tabs won’t interfere with the internal threads, so you can kinda force-fit the whole lens+shoe down the hole. Otherwise, forget it, you’d have to file down the shoe somewhat to get it to fit.

Me personally, I don’t recall much difference with/without the shoe, so it may not be so critical. I’ve taken to just dropping the TIR down the hole, make sure it’s seated flush against the O-ring, then carefully screw in the pill most of the way, flip it over, make sure the LED is in the TIR’s hole, then snug it up the rest of the way.

Beware, though, as the TIR is slightly shorter than the reflector, so you may have issues with battery contact. Might have to swap, say, the short spring for a taller stiffer one. With the shoe (implying narrower angle TIRs, up to about 60°), it adds an extra 1-2mm, so the springs will more or less make contact, albeit light, and not be too “flickery”. With the 90 and no shoe, it was almost unusable.

As for the XP-L HI, it’ll fit, but the edge around the hole in the TIR won’t have that much to grab onto. My “technique” above becomes that much more critical to make sure the TIR rests around the LED, not on it.

I believe in one of the Jaxman threads here at BLF the Company owner lamented his difficulty obtaining Nichias for their lights. Not only is Jaxman to be lauded for establishing a presence here, the few friendly and constructive suggestions I offered in a PM regarding translation pitfalls were graciously welcomed, and duly employed.

It was confirmation to see RMM become involved, certainly as good a ‘certification’ as one could want around here.
I personally don’t care what 3.5 mm Leds come with any light, because Clemence has forced me to learn how to go with the ‘reflow’ ……
If anything, Jaxman lights keep getting better, in all but one regard. We learned a lot when the single Nichia Hi Cri sw40 and sw57 lights appeared, many wanted him to return after flirting with the CREEs. It was at this point I believe he posted his comment regarding Nichias, saying he was thinking of an alternate brand. Obviously, 3 emitter lights are even more cost sensitive. OTOH, seeing D4s hit the market running with 5000k 9050 Nichias, and our in-house source appearing with them in a direct supply line to consumers, reflects on availability.

Although many here are grateful for not needing to set aside funds for another ‘must have’ emitter, we are left to wonder if he was given a wide enough sampling as a basis for his purchasing decision, or if like my wife, he has some level of immunity towards hues most of us avoid?

[Still in the off-topic, shortly, and sorry to respond here too: you can ask Simon to send different lenses on the same package, instead 5 of the same kind.
The TIR lenses for XML2 fit the XPL-HI (I tried in the S2+ Desert Tan with XPL-HI) and used the TIR, without the plastic holder, with the AR coated glass lens above it and with sealing o-ring as well. The beam produced with “pebbled” (hive) lenses are much similar bewteen XPL-HI and XML2 - both are floody - but the XPL-HI seems to have a more bright centre and smaller overall angle in outside diameter. The other lenses, tend to reflect the type of LED that it has below, being narrower with the XPL-HI and floodier with the XML2.]
Back to topic :wink: :arrow_right:

I’d also like to thanks Jaxman for bringing these LEDs to our attention. Too bad they weren’t any good, but like others, I’m happy that we got the chance to check them out.

Hey, anyone have one of these lights yet? Are they glued shut?

I’m tempted to pull the trigger on one, but worst case, I’d just swap emitter boards (no reflowing). As long as I can, that is.

Is the 4000K version that horrible? The beamshot on ali makes it look almost rosy compared to the 5000K.

I asked no glue. But they didn’t even put thermal paste between the MCPCB and shelf…

Doesn’t really matter in this case, but still.