Perhaps the batteries are not up to the job. Did you get any higher reading in a DD light?
I don’t think so, he used TrustFire “Flames” and connected them in parallel.
Thank you all for your post.
I have to admit i didn't thing to change my multimeter.
I have 2 multimeter
1X25usd from dx and 1X5usd?!?!? from ebay. The results i have with the first dmm is 1250ma, with the second 1100ma but with both of them(in paraller) about 2000ma (first dmm 1100ma, second dmm 900ma).
First i connected the 25usd dmm and then I connected the second.... wow the output was awesome. Since i don't own a third dmm
i left the 2 dmms connected in pareller and i added a 1mm 20mm long cable in parallel too.... and wow! even more output than the 2 dmms in paraller so the mystery solved. The strange thing is that the 2 dmms was still had indications when i connected the extra cable(800ma the first and 350ma the second)
So now i need a recommendation for a multimeter(not very expensive) and thick leads for my future explorations
If DD stands for direct drive the answer is yes but as you see the problem was the dmm.
Do you solder a connection between the driver (battery negative ring) and the pill?
I am not sure what is the pill but i didn't solder anything. I used crocodile clips(extra cable and the cheap dmm have them installed)
The pill is the brass part of the flashlight, where the LED is glued on.
For example this part, if it is a drop-in:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S010133
To get a good result you have to solder a battery negative ring to the brass part.
I almost destroyed the driver(solder-desolder many times) so i decided to install it to one of my flashlight and i ordered a new one from kaidomain.
I also ordered this http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S005025 SSC P7 5-mode driver which will direct drive my xml t6 led.
I will test the p7 driver with a half charged 18650 battery(not imr) and gradually until 4,2volts.
My tailcap has 0.4-0.5 resistance so I hope I can use it without burning my led. I will post my test results here.
E1320 said:
Good news I just got a chance to take apart a Shiningbeam P-Rocket and it had one of these new drivers and I was able to reflash it with the standard setup I have been using on the old Nanjg drivers.
Are you sure it's the same board? It seems to have a quite different pin layout; others said so, too.
Or did you refer to the PIC version of the NANJG105(A)?
Can you take a photo of the driver?
Hi,
New to this forum, and flashlight diy projects. But I like it already! 
I'm thinking about using this driver (2280) with a 16340 battery, and a suitable xm-l led (something like http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xm-lt6-885lm-led-emitter-6000k-white-light-bulb-3-0-3-5v-50599 ). What do you experts think about that?
Welcome! IMO you’d be better off with the 1.5A version of this driver if using a 16340, especially if you are using a non-IMR cell. (IMRs are more suited for high current than regular (LiCo) cells). I tend to be on the conservative side, so others may disagree.
Last night I put a 2280 into my Yezl Z1x (UF2100) and boy does that get warm quick. I don't know how you guys with DD drivers in those things handle it.
Thanks mitro! Aside the heat, are there any serious cons with my configuration? Guess battery time will suffer, but if I use aw imr battery and doesnt run it on hi mode all the time it shouldnt explode, or burn the led or something like that…? I think it could be a pretty powerful torch!
I have 5 of these winging their way to me.
I am very interested in learning how to re-program this driver.
What equipment and software would I need in order to do this?
Many thanks
I haven’t tried yet, but with an “Arduino Duemilanove” and a “Soic 8 Clip” I think it’s enough. Look for them at eBay.
Thanks FX-32 I will check them out. Edit: Is there any chance you could give it a try and see if it works?
Does anyone know of a budget 3xAA host for these drivers?
Has anybody taken a picture of one of these after modifying for a mode group or feature? Do you just bridge the gap as if a resistor were there?
See JohnnyMac's SAIK-305 mod here. Might be a little more modding than you wanted, I don't know. I too bought this light to do the same thing.
-Garry
Thanks, Langcjl, but that's a 105C. I know how to do those. These KD ones are a little different.
Thanks for pointing this out Garry. It is definitely interesting. While I really appreciate JohnnyMac's work, this solution involves too much heavy modding for me.
**Solarforce, are you reading this?!**
There is a massive gap in the market for a 3xAA P60 host with the same configuration as the Saik SA-305, using a 3xAA cradle.
**Solarforce, are you reading this?!**
I'm not much of a fan of it, but the Dereelight Javelin with the extender seems like the better option for me.
While also being useful to me; this driver is screaming out to be gifted out in a 3xAA host to friends/family (non-flashalcoholics).
I did realize that after I posted. This one is just two little solder pads that have to be bridged. I had a heck of a time doing it but it should have been really easy.
I really like this driver and have used a bunch of them, the only problem I have is that the tiny spring will give fits in some applications. Sometimes I have to stretch the spring to make contact. The last setup I had trouble with was a SF L2T. I tried all of my longest batteries and it was still too short. The spring is very stiff so I dont just pull it to stretch it. I bend each coil up one at a time.