Try this, akovia
It’s not a bug, it’s a feature.
Seems to be another batch of boards. I don’t have this “bai hai hong” printed on mine.
At first glance I can’t see any shorts either, but soldering looks mediocre. Next i would use the multimeter to check all components for shorts, continuity and resistor values, here is a circuit diagram . You could also measure current when light is off with multimeter and power supply, this might give a hint where the current flows. Wait a few seconds after shutting down before you check until the mcu goes to sleep. And with an oscilloscope you could check Pin 5 and 6 of the mcu whether there are any spikes.
If there aren’t any new findings I would re-solder all pads and see if it helps.
I’m in France. My Q8 left Sept 15th and arrived yesterday via the normal route at Roissy. No duty to pay. Packaging was trashed but the light seems fine.
The Q8 is a stupendous piece of work for $40. Between that, my MT103 and my old DEFT I am done for big lights - I’ll run out of trees to melt fairly soon otherwise. I haven’t touched anything on the UI yet as it seems just fine for now. Love the ramping, takes a minute or two to get used to and you’re done. Added my standard shoulder-strap to it and I suspect it will be my regular light for night-time animal duties for a long time. It will certainly be hard to better it. Just brilliant and well worth the wait.
Thank you to all involved, especially the Miller and Tom E. Can’t wait for the FW3A now…. 
Not sure if this was posted.
FLIR thermal photo after cca. 5min on turbo (stepdown disabled) with fresh 30Q and no mods.
Thank you BLF team !
any plan for white light ?
I’d take a careful look around R3, in case there is a dodgy joint or the resistor itself is faulty , though it seems to look OK.
This 100K resistor is there to drain the FET gate voltage to ground when the gate is not being actively driven by the MCU.
If it has become disconnected, this might explain the very slight current flowing through the LEDs when the MCU is asleep, depending on how MCU pin 6 is left during sleep.
E.g. if MCU pin is left floating tri-state (and R3 has become disconnected), only the tiniest leakage current would be enough to charge the FET gate just sufficiently to turn it on very slightly.
Check resistance measured at the FET gate pin to ground.
Should be no more than 100K (depending on whether much meter current flows through MCU pin as well). Try with meter probes both ways round, in case in one direction MCU pin protection circuit conducts. Generally black probe on ground should be OK.
Maybe afterwards try re-touching R3 solder joints anyway, if you feel up to it.
Well, that’s my hypothesis, for now, with a lot of “ifs” 
Otherwise maybe a leaky 7135, but you would have to disconnect it to diagnose that.
That is a nice one for sure.
Thanks!
I got a few of these in. They are pretty nice, heavy so seem well made, and don't need to be sanded/grinded down to fit. The ring though will flop around, so using a heavier, thickr lanyard would work well with them.
I did find this in my searching as well if anyone is interested in a static ring. I like that it's stainless steel.
I suspected this also but according to Toms’ code the pins for FET and 7135 are always configured as output.
This one appears to be the same - but less expensive:
I bought one of these for my MT-01 and I like the smaller size compared with some others I bought recently. It sits reasonably high off of the light but the thick rubber washer works well to take up the slack when you screw it in. I’m going to buy two more for my Q8 collection for sure.
That’s because it’s aluminium, not stainless. I think I’d rather have the stainless myself….
Ok, this would explain the huge difference in price. But in “Item specifics” the Aliexpress seller says “Material: Aluminium”.
Perhaps the title (which says “steel”) refers to the keyring only …
I’ve been out of the game for awhile. Mine arrived this week and still in the box for now. I located my flashlight stuff today to see what I had.
I have a XTAR SP2 charger and no batteries.
Is this charger OK besides only having 2 bays? Else maybe I will go ahead and get the LiitoKala Lii-500 (assume thats the same as the LI500 you note)
I’ve been searching this thread regarding battery options. Is there a protected option?
I am in the US, and I’d prefer Amazon if at all possible for Prime / Prime now! Any links or more recommendations appreciated. I guess I can patiently wait for my batteries.
I may just go with the one linked for Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh Unprotected Button Top Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh Unprotected Button Top
> tripod screw
Use the “Search Within Thread” button at the top of the page.
> FastenR-Tripod
$_24.95_?!
You can find what appears to be that same product for less than $2 at aliexpress, and there are stronger-looking alternatives
Look in this thread with the search feature
Sorry to bring up on old post, but I'd like to add some more facts to this. You referenced a worse case example that's not applicable to the Samsung 30Q. Here's the 30Q compared to the AW 2600 at a low draw of 0.2A, so little voltage sag:
Using this chart, the 30Q still has 20% of capacity remaining at 3.4V at a low draw. The AW, well, has a really bad drop off - not very common.
That page from HKJ is apparently very old, using cells that maybe were popular 4-5 years ago, and they have different discharge characteristics. Same with the Pana B - it has a steep drop off at the end.
[quote=Prodeje79]
I may just go with the one linked for Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh Unprotected Button Top Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh Unprotected Button Top
I buy pretty much all of my batteries from Mountain Electronics. Very hard to beat his pricing especially since he is located in America and the shipping is quick. Richard is a long time blf member and stands by his sales. Also your not going to get fake or counterfit products from his website. Now as far as batteries go I personally buy only Samsung 30qs for all my 18650 flashlights. They are always at or near the top of the performance curve regardless of what flashlight you need them for. They are typically budget friendly and have a nice high 3amp hour reserve of power.
I hope this helps