Review: DRY cool white, 4-mode/step-down

I used a dremel tool with a wire wheel to de-burr the threads on my DRY, much smoother now and you can actually run your finger across the threads without getting your finger cut :P

There we go. Enjoy! :)

Mouse out: E1320 modified F15 (XM-L @ 3.50 amps)
Mouse over: DRY Turbo

Out: E1320 modified C88 (XM-L @ 3.50 amps)
Over: DRY High

Out: DRY High
Over: DRY Turbo

High vs Turbo is not exactly HUGE, but it's significant. The heat on Turbo is ALSO significant.

Out: E1320 modified C88 (XM-L @ 3.50 amps)
Over: E1320 modified F15 (XM-L @ 3.50 amps)

Mouseovers Rock

yes they do, and so does the Dry :)

Trust me guys, from my experience with all the triples and 4 of these, try not to do above 4A. It is already very good at 4A, there is no need at all to try to aim for 5A unless you are living in a very cold place like Alaska or Canada or Northeasten China/Moscow. I know the feeling that you want MORE and MORE, but seriously there is no need.

And at this juncture this and the TM11 are the only triples with NW and this one is the only one with WW.

My 4 x U2 emitters came on LED DNA. Going to change one copy out. :) Hope it does 3000L OTF! (or probably close to it).

I must admit; I tried to do the mouse-over some time ago and encountered a strange mental block . . . I just couldn't figure it out . . . but I will.

viktori - thank you so very much; those show the difference rather dramatically.

appreciationFoy

Great pics foy. I must say I do miss the cactus though.

Believe me; I miss the whole house.

shortsaleFoy

I must say mouseovers puzzled me for a moment, because they worked while composing the reply, but not after I submitted the reply. Turns out, you have to reload the full thread page, or open it in a new tab/window for mouseovers to work. Looks to me like a bug in frugal.

Here is a nice tutorial on how to create a mouseover, or mouseover howto:

Viktor

I used some small washers to lengthen my DRY battery holder by 1.1mm , longer protected batteries fit nicely now.

this is simple yet so brilliant.now the xtar 2600 fits nicely into the battery holder,thanks,aoyue2702

nice idea..I will do the same..

Thanx Viktor for the excellent mouse-overs and the tutorial.

Boy, that DRY remains impressive!

What a great idea! You're the man!

I know... I know...

Your Welcome

Hi, I am new to this forum.

I just sold my Dry to my Bro-in-Law, cuz he had to have it. Not because I did not like it. For the money it is likely the best small bright light out there

I just ordered the Electrolumens Buiser which is on sale for about $149. It uses a 26650 (might have one more zero) battery and he rates it at 3000 lumens.

I should get my Bruiser in a few days and will give a comparison. I also own the TK70 and the TM11. I found both to put out noticeably more light than the Dry (not saying the Dry is not amazing, all things considered).

I don't think the TK70 is a comparable light because it truly lights up the inside of a dark 2 story chimney (I inspect fireplaces). The TM11 does a good job and the Dry is acceptable, but the TM11 does a noticeably better job than the Dry. This holds true for my bounce tests as well.

One thing I really liked about the Dry is the reverse clicky at the back (the TM has an electronic type on off switch on the side) which means its less convenient to turn on and off.

I wont be able to do a side by side since I no longer have the Dry but I can compare it to the TM11.

I will put a quick review here when I get it. I won't be doing beam shots since I am too lazy (lets be honest) to set it all up. Actually, if the Bruiser blows it won't really matter.

I also ordered his EDC which is claimed at 1000 lumens and uses an 18650 battery, it's on sale for $99.

He seems like a real good guy (the owner) and responds quickly to emails. No, I do not work for him. But I love my lights and if I find a good one (especially if it is made is US) then I will promote it.

When I ordered my Dry I ordered an extra battery holder and their holster. I advise the extra holder since the first one I touched fell apart and the spring broke off (all fixable). The $5 holster is inexpensive but it will not last if you are like me and use your lights all the time (placing it in and out of the holster a lot). So if you want a holster, order 3 and certainly order another bat holder if you are serious about using the light.

Welcome to the gang, John! You will fit right in with the rest of us crazies. :slight_smile:

Looking forward to your review of the Bruiser.

Johnny

Now that I finally have my DRY in hand, I can offer a couple of thoughts. Right now my primary thought is how when I first got the DRY I was blown away by its brightness. That is until I broke out my TR-3T6 and found the 3T6 to be every bit its equal.

Unable to find this acceptable based on all I had heard of the DRY, I decided to test its draw at the tailcap. In the DRY I had 3 fresh charged TF 2600 Flames and was stunned it was only pulling 2.6A at the tail. I then opened the 3T6 and yanked the Panasonics in it that I got from Reverend Jim and put them into the DRY and put the TF Flames into the 3T6. Fired them both up again side-by-side and was relieved to see the DRY performing a little better than it was. I tested the draw on it with the unprotected Panasonics in it and it was now pulling 3.4 in Turbo mode.

So two conclusions...first, how the hell are some of you getting way more draw than 3.4 in Turbo (what batts are you using??)? Second, TF 2600 Flames really suck! I thought you could easily pull more than 2.6A from them but apparently not.

Oh, I guess there is a third conclusion...with the right batteries the TR-3T6 isn't that bad of a light! :)

Johnny

PS: I really do LOVE my DRY!!