Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

[goshdogit]

@JasonWW

I wish there was more info on this stuff, like how much output you lose, before and after shots, etc…

A while back, I took some beamshots of an EagleEye X6 and a Convoy S2+ triple comparing d-c-fix and a holographic diffusion film from Luminit.

In that same thread, ‘saabluster’ mentioned the layers of diffusion material used inside newer TVs. I haven’t tried any on a flashlight but I’ve had several TVs apart for repair and the material looks promising. It’s also cheap if you keep an eye out for TVs on trash day.

[JasonWW]

@goshdogit

@JasonWW

I wish there was more info on this stuff, like how much output you lose, before and after shots, etc…

A while back, I took some beamshots of an EagleEye X6 and a Convoy S2+ triple comparing d-c-fix and a holographic diffusion film from Luminit.

In that same thread, ‘saabluster’ mentioned the layers of diffusion material used inside newer TVs. I haven’t tried any on a flashlight but I’ve had several TVs apart for repair and the material looks promising. It’s also cheap if you keep an eye out for TVs on trash day.

I think what I had in my head was a very light blending of the beam. The 40° diffusion film probably cuts your beam distance to less than half. That’s not what I was wanting. The 10° looks promising.

Is the DC FIX stuff available in different amounts of diffusion? That looks closer to what I wanted.

Where do you buy it?

[ToyKeeper]

Beam shots before/after DC-Fix? I have some for the BLF-A6… not the greatest shots, but it might at least give some idea what to expect.

It’s worth noting that it does not change the tint. It just blends the various parts of the beam together for a more consistent tint. Usually the hotspot is one color and the spill is another color, but a diffuser reduces that by blending them. In case anyone was wondering why the light on the right looks warmer… it’s not; it’s just more consistent.

[JasonWW]

Yeah. That looks pretty good. The last time I googled DC fix I got all kinds of colored films and such and no decent places to buy it from.

[gregfortune]

@JasonWW

Have you seen my videos? This one https://youtu.be/rdwah7HJAJA shows me going into the blinkies. It’s dbl click, short pause, dbl click, then single clicks to go up through the 5 different ones. Your timing might just be a bit off. Once in blinkies you have to advance through them before 1.2 seconds each click. If you stay on a blinky mode longer than 1.2 seconds it locks in.

Sureeeee…… Now it works exactly as expected. My timing on the single clicks might have been too slow. The bike mode is nifty

[goshdogit]

@JasonWW

Yeah. That looks pretty good. The last time I googled DC fix I got all kinds of colored films and such and no decent places to buy it from.

I think the stuff in my beamshots is the ‘sand’ variant. A listing on Amazon seems to call it ‘milky/sand’ and d-c-fix’s site calls it just ‘milky.’

Have you tried the ‘Scotch tape method?’

Here is the manufacturer’s page with their diffuse self-adhesive variants.

[joechina]

@gregfortune

@JasonWW

Have you seen my videos? This one https://youtu.be/rdwah7HJAJA shows me going into the blinkies. It’s dbl click, short pause, dbl click, then single clicks to go up through the 5 different ones. Your timing might just be a bit off. Once in blinkies you have to advance through them before 1.2 seconds each click. If you stay on a blinky mode longer than 1.2 seconds it locks in.

Sureeeee…… Now it works exactly as expected. My timing on the single clicks might have been too slow. The bike mode is nifty

Another trick, go backwards in strope:
Strobe Modes:

The normal way (RAMPING: 2x, 2x, Y clicks [Y= 1…4] ) is time sensitive because of the lock in modes. And I got PMs people are not quick enough for the Y clicks, because the Y have to be done right after the second double click.
If navigation is hard, try:

RAMPING from off/on: Double click, double click, 4 clicks in a row. Now you are in the 5th strobe = 10 sec beacon.

MODES from off/on: Longhold (over 1,2sec), 4 clicks in a row. Now you are in the 5th strobe

Now you can go back via click&hold. You can go back 4 times, then comes OFF.
If you go backwards you have time to do this.

[JasonWW]

@gregfortune

@JasonWW

Have you seen my videos? This one https://youtu.be/rdwah7HJAJA shows me going into the blinkies. It’s dbl click, short pause, dbl click, then single clicks to go up through the 5 different ones. Your timing might just be a bit off. Once in blinkies you have to advance through them before 1.2 seconds each click. If you stay on a blinky mode longer than 1.2 seconds it locks in.

Sureeeee…… Now it works exactly as expected. My timing on the single clicks might have been too slow. The bike mode is nifty

I’m glad you got it sorted. :+1:

[Norddeutscher]

Moin moin

I got two Q8 yesterday and work so far both perfectly.
Thanks to all those who have made this project possible.

greeting
Jens

[bwl123]

@stephenk

@ToyKeeper

@sac02

TK, that was a really nice writeup you linked to. Do you put DC fix on many of your lights, or was that somewhat unique to the mixed tint light (to get better mixing)?

I put DC-Fix on lots of lights. For example, the golden SRK on the front page of BLF? That one is mine, and it has DC-Fix on its lens. It’s a happy light:

The Q8 is, incidentally, originally intended to bring back the old good-quality SRKs, like that one. The old ones were pretty nice but newer ones had so much quality reduction that they were mostly junk. However, the Q8 went well beyond that original goal and became something better than all its predecessors. It doesn’t just bring the old SRK back, it leapfrogs the old lights entirely to give us something totally new.

Has anyone DC-Fixed their Q8 yet? Interested in trying myself? Dumb question, but how do I remove the lens?

To remove bezel, place on tyre inner tube(free from tyre repair shops).
Hold head, press down hard and turn anticlockwise.

[MAD777]

Here are a few detailed pics of my near perfect Q8. I've found nothing to complain about with the workmanship or performance. Comparing this by eye to the performance of a few other lights with similar specs, my sample somewhat exceeds the factory specs given, without any modifications. I'm using Sony VTC6. I plan to bypass the springs.

I disabled the strobe and all functions of the indicator light. I do miss the double-click from turbo to get back to the previous setting, like the D4.

Thanks again to Miller and the team for the best bang for the buck I'll ever get in a flashlight!

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

MAD777, that first pic makes me hungry! It’s early here, finishing up a cup of joe, and that looks like 4 over easy eggs…. my Q8 is hung up in Houston so I can’t even make toast!

Nice shots, looking forward to seeing this light…

Number 1 is hung up in Houston, still, number 3 is now in ElPaso, TX and number two is still sitting in LA. I recently ordered a couple of things from Banggood that have caught up to number 3 light, in ElPaso, even though the shipping seemed much different. I guess they’re playing with my number 2 in LA… hope they leave the cells in it when they’re done.

[Tom_E]

@MAD777

I disabled the strobe and all functions of the indicator light. I do miss the double-click from turbo to get back to the previous setting, like the D4.

I'm adding this as a feature improvement: if strobes are disabled, 2X click from a 2X click invoked turbo will restore last level.

[Calmaja]

@BrianK

@Calmaja

@Zulumoose

You shouldn’t be carrying the Q8 around in a pocket, any fool can see that with the correct D ring installed it is meant to be a keyring light.

Sorry, I can’t agree with you about this. I try in my keyring, but don’t feel it is the right size as keyring light

It’s great on the bill of a baseball cap.

Oh, I never thought about it before, will try it but have little problem here, could you please inform me store that selling clip for it?

[PBWilson]

@BrianK

@Calmaja

@Zulumoose

You shouldn’t be carrying the Q8 around in a pocket, any fool can see that with the correct D ring installed it is meant to be a keyring light.

Sorry, I can’t agree with you about this. I try in my keyring, but don’t feel it is the right size as keyring light

It’s great on the bill of a baseball cap.

How about a triple Q8 threat with one of these:

You wouldn’t have to worry about trees in your way, on turbo, it’ll simply turn them to ashes.

[joechina]

@MAD777

I disabled the strobe and all functions of the indicator light. I do miss the double-click from turbo to get back to the previous setting, like the D4.

Thanks again to Miller and the team for the best bang for the buck I’ll ever get in a flashlight!

I guess you already know that after double click to turbo you can click to OFF and the next click brings up your old brightness level?

Right now I don’t know if Toykeeper has a RampinglOS version for the Q8.

[Tom_E]

I wrote RampingIOS, so definitely will work on a Q8. Both support FET+1 fine.

[JasonWW]

@joechina

I guess you already know that after double click to turbo you can click to OFF and the next click brings up your old brightness level?

I figured that out eventually, but the sudden darkness of being off for a second is a bit annoying.

@Tom E

I’m adding this as a feature improvement: if strobes are disabled, 2X click from a 2X click invoked turbo will restore last level.

That is great to hear. It will add a nice refinement to things. I don’t even use strobes, I just learned them for the videos.

[Hardware]

My two Q8 arrived yesterday. It's all perfect and I'm happy. Wonderful lamps with great UI.
Once again, I would like to thank all the organizational and technical Employe.

Best regards, Hardware

[bdm82]

I got one on Friday and one on Saturday. Both are 2nd batch. Boxes were a bit bent up, having been mailed in a unpadded bag.

Lights were in good order.

As for imperfections, they were insignificant but identical between the two lights.

• Faint machining marks on bezel, as reported earlier by others. Not noticeable or a problem.
• Slightly gritty thread action. Fully fixed by wiping down and re-lubing.
• Dry O-rings. Fixed with Nyogel.
• One super tiny nick inside of battery tube on head end. Result of construction process, no actual problem.
• One super tiny dot of HA missing on tail. Nitpicking; no real problem.

Emitter centering on both was great. I gave both lights a run on Turbo/Max down to almost dead batteries. I let one of the two sit for 48 hours on standby. No switch Green LED problems.

I did have a heart-dropping moment when I tested one on Maxinitially and got something like 3100 lumens. Then I realized I grabbed the set of 30Qs at 3.4V instead of the fully-charged set of 30Qs I intended. Using fully charged batteries, both tested north of 5100 lumens at 30s on both lights.

Very pleased. Great value. Thanks to those who made it happen! It seems being in 2nd batch was a stroke of luck for me as both lights are without any real flaws.