That really is a sweet mod to the L6, between the output gains and the new functionality it’s like a whole different light. Nicely done! 
Thks
Also I forgot to mention that I swapped reflector from op to smo
some beamshots tonight
MT07S turbo:
L6 modded 70.2 P2 BIN + SMO + MTN FET driver
L6 modded 70.2 P2 BIN + SMO + TA FET driver NarsilM UI
New to the forum... So I just got the L6 and I am a little disappointed with how bright it is. Maybe I just had my expectations too high, but overall it doesn't seem all that much brighter than my 1000lm Fenix TK16.
I would like to modify it to get a more focused beam and more power overall out of it. However, I am going to be using it primarily for work and being able to keep it at the max brightness for extended periods of time is important. I'm fine with putting it at a lower power setting once I get to 5 min or so. I plan to get a SMO reflector and a XHP70.2 LED for it as both should help get me in the direction of what I want without creating additional heat. I've been reading through a ton of different threads on this forum, but I still have a few questions.
- Roughly how long can the stock L6 be left on turbo before it is going to damage itself due to heat? I wear gloves so I don't care that much about it getting too hot to hold.
- Would increasing the amperage to the LED significantly reduce (to where it is now below 5 min) how long the light can be left on turbo? Essentially, is the stock L6 set to about the max power you can pump through the LED before it will start to fail within 5 -10 min, or can I get more out of it with a resistor modified driver or a different driver like the Texas Avenger?
- What usually fails first due to heat failure? The LED, driver, or batteries?
Thanks for the help.
I don’t think any of the modded L6’s can do a full 5 minutes on turbo. Stock can do it until the batteries run down, but it gets super hot.
Mine is probably over 8,000 lumen and I don’t like using it on turbo for more than 20-30 seconds. It gets hot quick!
The stock L6 should still blow away the TK16. Maybe have 3 or 4 times the hot spot size as well.
The SMO does help to reduce the hotspot size and improve distance.
The 70.2 just gives you a smoother hotspot with maybe more efficiency. I’m not sure how it will effect a stock driver.
The amount of light of the L6 is good, but its not a dedicated thrower
You can get more throw with a smaller light and small die LED like XP-G2, but with only 900 lumens
What kind of work are you doing?
You might need a bigger light running at its med levels rather than a med sized light running at max.
As long as you don’t keep it powered on past the point of where it is unbearable to hold are you usually not going to damage anything (even when modded)? Another way of asking this… Will the parts in the flashlight fail due to heat first or will it become too hot to handle first?
Law Enforcement work. I have the TK16 as my primary light. This will just be used occasionally when I want to search an area for somebody in a field or forest etc.
This is just about as big as I can get. I throw this in a sling on my belt. Anything bigger than this and I will have no place to hold it when I need both hands.
Too hot to hold first. Lights like the Thorfire S70 will step down after 3 or 4 minutes to keep people from burning their hands, but the Convoy L6 was programmed not to step down. You have to use common sense not to burn yourself. And of course it is designed to handle the heat internally. I think it gets up to 80°C, then as the batteries drain the heat goes down.
One thing that might help is a narsil driver. With ramping it has 150 brightness levels so you can choose what you want instead of being limited by high or turbo.
I do security work with mine. It’s so bright, I can sweep an area in like 3 seconds. I use it in short bursts usually no more than 10 seconds at a time. If I need to keep it on longer, I adjust it down a little.
Another thing to consider, it seems like the various bins of the XHP70.2 vary significantly, looks like between 1520 to 2015lm according to the cree data sheet. Where does one buy top bin XHP70.2 already mounted to the MCPCB?
This is the only one that I found already mounted to a MCPCB but I have no idea what bin it is from:
You can get them in the US.
You need to decide if you want white or pale white, etc… I think P2 bin is currently the highest at the moment.
That’s funny I found that same site just before you posted it. I like the color rendering I get from the 5000K XHP70 so I’ll stick to around that. Looks like 4000K would be better than 5700K. Would you agree? Seems like I can pick up stuff faster with the warmer light (at least when comparing to my much whiter Fenix.
What size board do I need? 16, 20, or 32?
I’m a CW guy, 5700-6500k. I don’t like any yellow in any of my lights.
You’ll need the 20mm.
For throw, I would’ve suggested an L2 instead.
I don’t think he’s looking for a thrower. I know I wouldn’t want to hunt for somebody in the woods using an L2 or a C8 light. You want good spill lighting to see all around you plus a decent sized hotspot to better identify things.
Unno. I seem to recall he wanted a tighter beam and more amperage. The former sounds like something throwier.
Hunting someone in the woods, I’d want a thermal imager. Just sayin’…
Actually, from what I remember of my L2, it had decent spill. Wouldn’t be like a zoomie where you’re projecting the batsignal with zero spill.
The larger head of the L6 with a smooth reflector will give best throw, use a buck driver at 5.5A or 6A to the XP-G2 and de-dome it, should get some 1100 lumens and a tight pencil beam. 
It depends. If you’re surrounded by birches for example, a big spot or bright spill will blind you from the reflections. A small spot goes right between the tress.