BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

Hi, my first post.

I recently got 2 A6 from banggood on sale (16€ I think)
I got the warm and the white version. Now the white verson blinks much slower (strobe,bikeflash, bat check)
I seem to recal reading something about old drivers beeing under-clocked when i did my research, but i can’t find it anymore.

Is there a fix? did banggood just dump some old stock on me?

If I would replace the driver, is there a ramping alternative? (I really like the Q8 software)

This driver with Crescendo FW and you have ramping

How much slower?

It’s normal for the clock speed to vary by up to ~33% or so from one piece to another… but if it’s more than that, like if one is running twice as fast as the other, that means they messed up something when flashing the driver.

If it’s a small variation, like 33% or less, it’s probably permanent. If it’s a larger variation, you can probably fix it by reflashing the driver with the correct settings.

The Q8’s software won’t work on it though… the A6’s button physically disconnects power, so it’s physically impossible to do the “hold to ramp” thing the Q8 depends on. The closest currently available is Crescendo.

The only driver I’m aware of which had a batch flashed for the wrong speed was the red Convoy driver. If your driver is red with chips (or pads for chips) on the spring side, that means they’re putting a Convoy driver into the A6, which they’re not supposed to do. If yours is yellow and marked A17DD_L, it should be the correct driver.

Hello,

Quick battery question. Earlier this year I purchased six LG INR18650HG2’s (rated 20A but tested at 25A I think it was?) to replace all my aging batteries. Would it still be recommended to use the Samsung 30Q over these LG’s? Or am I fine until its time to replace these? I have three “good” flashlights, all three are BLF A6 driven, and two have XPL HI’s (mid 2016 C8’s) and the last is a BLF A6 (3D) with assumed XPL HD purchased earlier this month. All from BG.

Reason I ask:
Earlier this year I looked at bat reviews and could not distinguish any meaningful differences between these two brand/models of batteries, but went with the LG because it won in regard to better capacity at lower amps 5A/10A and I got 6 for only $36. So I decided not to buy the Samsungs at that time. But now I see the Samsung 30Q recommended here at BLF. Does that mean its better for the BLF A6 driven Flashlights over the LG’s? I’m not an e-cig smoker so maybe I should not have read that review… lol

Will I even notice a difference between these bats? Thanks

Rod

G'Day Rod,

No, you will not notice any difference in everyday use.

Best Regards,

George

Most excellent then. Thank you!

Rod

Both of those batteries are excellent and I own and use both and there very little difference. I typically go with 30qs when I have a situation when I need them in series because they are readily available in button top form. For single cell applications there is almost no difference.

Thanks, that is what I thought too.

By the way, does anyone know of a decent 17500 battery I could try? I have a AA flashlight that I want to mod with one of these drivers, but it actually has a 17mm x 100mm battery compartment so it would be perfect for two 17500 bats. Right now I use two eneloops in a 17mm OD tube. The flashlight has a 2012 XML or XML2, I cant remember, but the reflector and lens are of high quality and the driver of my own design. It also had spring bypass surgery. Thinking of a BLF A6 and XPL, but not sure any decent 17500’s exist…

does anyone know where i can get some clear tail switch covers for this light? can only find 16mm ones and i believe i need 14mm

you need 16mm ones like Convoy
the threads and tail boards in both light have same diameter

the hole might be a tiny bit smaller than Convoy, but the switch cover is flexible

A6

S2+

KD has the translucent caps
14mm(D) x 8mm(H) Silicone Tailcaps - Transparent ( 5 pcs )

Thankyou Lexel i did try one from my convoy C8 and found it did fit, but sort of bulged out the top. would prefer a better fit but will use the convoy ones if need be.

Can anyone tell me the Bin of the XP-L used in the A6?

Bin is unknown, but tints are known:

Rather than reading all 883 posts I wish to ask about a problem I have. The light was functioning quite well for maybe a month when all of a sudden I was no longer able to shut off the light via the tail button. I took off the tail and saw what looked like a small area of thread in the tail cap that seemed to be missing some anodyzation OR it had a very small piece of metal shaving debris now wedged firmly between some threads which I cannot get out. I cannot say if this is the cause of the light now not being able to be turned off normally or not.

Any ideas and/or solutions please?

Thank you in advance.

The shortest way

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1576100

One of the comments for that tail switch says:

It is reverse clicky, not forward clicky, so, there is not momentary-on. 17 mm diameter, a standard size.

It seems this may present a problem with the A6, right?

The original switch of A6 is reverse clicky

If your A6 still has the original switch, the biggest problem you will have is changing it
You take out the one you have and put this one in its place
After the change it will work in the same way

The switch mounted on the FT set (Omten 1288) is of better quality than the original A6
The negative is that it comes with a only spring and the A6 has double

All right, I understand. I will buy it and install it and report back on the outcome. Thank you for your help!

New switch arrived today and it was installed. My light now works properly again! Thank you g_sintornillos!