Imalent DX80 32000 lumen monster

That’s the impression I got as well. I have some 24v ones as well 18.5V ones. I’m not sure i’m going to try those yet.

The battery pack inside the light is supposedly 8 Samsung 30Q’s arranged is a 4S2P configuration.
Each 30Q is a 3000mAh cell and at 2P that would be a 6Ah pack.
So the pack is charged at 2A for 3 Hours, 10 minutes, it would fill that 6Ah pack. the extra 10 minutes accounts for losses.

Japan is US plug and 100V :slight_smile: Therefore, there are things that many of American home electronics operate as they are.

It seems that 3A or more flows in the heat generation of The charger (19 V 3.42 A).
I want to connect the power supply on hand and see the actual amount of current,my own power supply can only limit either voltage or current.
That’s scary :smiley:

I already tested my light, it charges at 1.91A

Is it a test with sufficient capacity(A) power supply?

It seems like only the 110v guys are burning up chargers. The 220v guys seem fine.

I think china is 220v so maybe imalent didn’t actually test their chargers running on 110v?

Are you accounting for when the charger shifts from constant amperage to constant voltage as it reaches terminal voltage? That last 10% or so goes much slower.

Here is the setup I used to measure the charging current. That is a compatible plug connected to the output of the supply.

I set the output of the supply at 19.00V with a current limit of 2.00A. Those settings can be seen in the top row of the display.

With the pack at a resting voltage of 15.3V, and dividing that by 4 cells gives 3.82V/cell, I plugged in the charging cable.

Being a regulated supply, the output voltage did not drop as the flashlight drew 1.81A.
I had set the current limit to 2.00A as a precaution. If the light had asked for more than 2.00A, I could have increased the current limit in a controlled way.
When I first got the light, the pack was shipped at 14.6V or 3.65V/cell. At that voltage it charged at 1.91A

HOWEVER,
These tests DO NOT tell us what the charging current is through each cell. I did a further test and varied the input voltage to the light from 19.00V up to a high of 20.50V. Imalent states in their manual that the supply can be from 19-24V.
Notice as the voltage increases, the current into the light decreases. Then as I bring it back down, it increases again.
I even brought it down to 18.5V, perhaps duplicating what happens when a lesser power supply is under load. The current draw rises a little more to make up for the voltage drop.
Notice that during the test, the input watts doesn’t change much.

Nice testing, good to know that it’s better to use higher voltage charger like 20V, since with original voltage drop could be under 18V and then current must be exceeding charger possibilities which results overheating and blowup finally….

Yeah, I think that is what is happening to the original charger.
Voltage drops, current goes up to make up the difference ———>POP!

BTW, that same phenomenon could explain why the driver popped on maiden666 light when he unscrewed the head while on.
As the battery lost contact and the resistance increased, the constant current driver saw a voltage drop and tried to increase the current draw to make up the difference. In any case, Even though Imalent upgraded the driver, I think it is still a very bad idea to unscrew the battery tube while the light is on

Ya, that is clear that the supplied charger barely suitable for DX80.

How is that measuring the output of the Imalent charger?

I thought about the same thing.
However, I think that it is low quality if it changes with the input voltage though it is a switching power supply.
Considering the manual specification and unnatural packing, At first was not planning to put in an AC adapter,but feel the possibility that wanted to enter later.
If this is the case, it is a haphazard imalent :confounded:

Thank you :slight_smile: It was very helpful.
DX80 charging circuit, design may be good.
The attached AC adapter was about 40℃.But it broke down :confounded:

Fine charging so far in the Uk, apart from a plastic cap blunder

Now I can stop laughing at myself and laugh at you. :innocent:

Well, it doesn’t.

What it does, is allow me to infer what the supplied charger charges at.
When I first got mine, while the supplied charger was still working, I measured the open circuit voltage. It was 19.5V
From my test we now know what the light will draw at all input voltages between 18.5-20.5V. Never does it exceed 2.0A, the supposed rating of the wall wart.
Therefore I can also infer that the problem with the chargers blowing, is not the light drawing more than the rated capacity of the charger, but rather the supplied charger is a piece of JUNK.
After all the other things that went wrong, they chose an off the shelf charger, probably giving no thought to it’s quality or suitability.

Feel free to remove this comment but does anyone else find it hard to time the double press for Turbo?

If it is easy to change modes with a single click with no problems, then I would say the switch makes good contact with each press.
Maybe a double click requires timing. I know a double click brings you straight to Turbo. Did you know a triple click brings up the volt meter?
How does the triple click work for you?

Is anyone else experiencing this. It dissipates after a few minutes with the light off.

Shows up after running the light on high for a min or so.

Great info. So it could theoretically work with a 18.5V adapter I have.