Imalent DX80 32000 lumen monster

It seems like only the 110v guys are burning up chargers. The 220v guys seem fine.

I think china is 220v so maybe imalent didn’t actually test their chargers running on 110v?

Are you accounting for when the charger shifts from constant amperage to constant voltage as it reaches terminal voltage? That last 10% or so goes much slower.

Here is the setup I used to measure the charging current. That is a compatible plug connected to the output of the supply.

I set the output of the supply at 19.00V with a current limit of 2.00A. Those settings can be seen in the top row of the display.

With the pack at a resting voltage of 15.3V, and dividing that by 4 cells gives 3.82V/cell, I plugged in the charging cable.

Being a regulated supply, the output voltage did not drop as the flashlight drew 1.81A.
I had set the current limit to 2.00A as a precaution. If the light had asked for more than 2.00A, I could have increased the current limit in a controlled way.
When I first got the light, the pack was shipped at 14.6V or 3.65V/cell. At that voltage it charged at 1.91A

HOWEVER,
These tests DO NOT tell us what the charging current is through each cell. I did a further test and varied the input voltage to the light from 19.00V up to a high of 20.50V. Imalent states in their manual that the supply can be from 19-24V.
Notice as the voltage increases, the current into the light decreases. Then as I bring it back down, it increases again.
I even brought it down to 18.5V, perhaps duplicating what happens when a lesser power supply is under load. The current draw rises a little more to make up for the voltage drop.
Notice that during the test, the input watts doesn’t change much.

Nice testing, good to know that it’s better to use higher voltage charger like 20V, since with original voltage drop could be under 18V and then current must be exceeding charger possibilities which results overheating and blowup finally….

Yeah, I think that is what is happening to the original charger.
Voltage drops, current goes up to make up the difference ———>POP!

BTW, that same phenomenon could explain why the driver popped on maiden666 light when he unscrewed the head while on.
As the battery lost contact and the resistance increased, the constant current driver saw a voltage drop and tried to increase the current draw to make up the difference. In any case, Even though Imalent upgraded the driver, I think it is still a very bad idea to unscrew the battery tube while the light is on

Ya, that is clear that the supplied charger barely suitable for DX80.

How is that measuring the output of the Imalent charger?

I thought about the same thing.
However, I think that it is low quality if it changes with the input voltage though it is a switching power supply.
Considering the manual specification and unnatural packing, At first was not planning to put in an AC adapter,but feel the possibility that wanted to enter later.
If this is the case, it is a haphazard imalent :confounded:

Thank you :slight_smile: It was very helpful.
DX80 charging circuit, design may be good.
The attached AC adapter was about 40℃.But it broke down :confounded:

Fine charging so far in the Uk, apart from a plastic cap blunder

Now I can stop laughing at myself and laugh at you. :innocent:

Well, it doesn’t.

What it does, is allow me to infer what the supplied charger charges at.
When I first got mine, while the supplied charger was still working, I measured the open circuit voltage. It was 19.5V
From my test we now know what the light will draw at all input voltages between 18.5-20.5V. Never does it exceed 2.0A, the supposed rating of the wall wart.
Therefore I can also infer that the problem with the chargers blowing, is not the light drawing more than the rated capacity of the charger, but rather the supplied charger is a piece of JUNK.
After all the other things that went wrong, they chose an off the shelf charger, probably giving no thought to it’s quality or suitability.

Feel free to remove this comment but does anyone else find it hard to time the double press for Turbo?

If it is easy to change modes with a single click with no problems, then I would say the switch makes good contact with each press.
Maybe a double click requires timing. I know a double click brings you straight to Turbo. Did you know a triple click brings up the volt meter?
How does the triple click work for you?

Is anyone else experiencing this. It dissipates after a few minutes with the light off.

Shows up after running the light on high for a min or so.

Great info. So it could theoretically work with a 18.5V adapter I have.

My TK75 gets that, it’s because it was put together in a humid environment, it’s ugly but I don’t think it affects the output much or at all.

I had already cut the plug off my blown charger because I don’t need a replacement.
My curiosity got the better of me, so tonight I popped the housing off the wall wart to see what happened when it blew.

Earlier I called this charger a piece of junk, but I must say it looks pretty sophisticated.

This is the output end of the board.

Those 2 red wires lead to the 120VAC plug. I take it N and L stand for Neutral and Line.

Here is the evidence off what caused the failure. Those 3 leads all in a row belong to a heat sinked semiconductor on the other side.
It looks like that part got so hot that the solder melted. It looks as though it may have flowed into that resistor.
Also, above it R10, R9 and R8 over heated.

This is the semicon that over heated, but there is a big capacitor blocking the part number.

So I removed it. I looked it up, a 5N60C is a 600V MOSFET.

That capacitor I removed is rated at 400V.

After looking at the board some more, I’m not as sure that solder melted. It may be just the resistors that are bad.
All three are in parallel, which means that they did that to increase the wattage of the resistance called for in the design.

So it blew at the 120VAC end of the circuit, not the 19V end. Not what I was expecting to see.

Now I wish I could get a look at one before it blew.

Yeah, mine did that the first time I used it. I think by now that humidity has been baked out of it.

Okay good to know.

Pulled mine apart as well, exact same issue. Mine doesn’t look quite as burnt as yours.

Triple click works maybe 1 out of 10 times. I guess it’s just getting used to the timing.

Impressive light though, I recorded 32,000 lumens based on my X45 being 14,900. They have very very close beam patterns. Similar spill width and similar yellowish beam area. It didn’t seem to out throw my DT70 but there’s a lot of light pollution blocking your far vision from the DX80.

I filmed a ton last night in 4K and if the light hit any reflective or white objects it caused huge blurring on my video. To the eye the sheer brightness hitting the atmosphere causes a huge blue hue in the air. I had to manually step the camera down for the first time ever!

It warms up slowly considering but also cools down slowly.

My biggest issue is the light is very top heavy and the handle smooth as hell, the light is like trying to hold a ferret.

All my 8,000+ lumen lights do it if the weather is cool.