LED drivers and Accessories you want, but don’t exist

If you only want on/off you can just use one of those buck converters from AliExpress.
I use one too for my 3*26650 light with a 100W COB in front.

Those better?
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/OPA365AIDBVR/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuUbyQTl9BuV5RTXIcMxZggHHJtoxXnn3c%3D

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Microchip-Technology/MCP651ST-E-OT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuUbyQTl9BuVyNQLnF40q7dKQoRTha3NI8%3D

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Microchip-Technology/MCP621ST-E-OT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuUbyQTl9BuVwXrcVct7erJvV%252bB4xpxNIA%3D

Take the OPA365, the microchip parts seem to have a really high input offset drift when the supply voltage changes.

could you share that board?

TPS63020 board link

Kinda crying out in the wilderness here, but I need a high discharge FET drive that will allow these five conditions simultaneously;

- always on momentary signaling switch,
-adjustable frequency and duty cycle strobe only,
-momentary only,

- adjustable thermal step down,

  • ability to lock out programmability with
    closed solder junction.

Sounds more like you need custom firmware instead of custom hardware. Any of the BLF FET drivers should support that hardware wise.

Can you Recommend a 17mm Driver (single cell) for xhp35 ?

I currently try to make one. PCB is nearly finished, but I need to find an ATTiny25v rev. E in qfn package. I maybe will order from different shops, maybe some have the revision E.

The attiny25V is good for low voltage Applications, I found this on Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ATTINY25V-10SU-SOP8-ATTINY25V-10-SOP-ATTINY25V-SMD-2piece-lot-new-and-original/32793537074.html…
Attiny13 is good too and Much cheaper , the only Problem with it is the 1024 byte Flash.

Thanks Jensen567, you are almost certainly right.
If I could make it simpler, cheaper, higher output with a custom driver that would be great, but custom firmware is the place to start for sure.

I reflowed the driver, but it seems dead any test I can do?

when I turn it on a current of about 6mA flows

I tested all parts to have continuity to the other parts and it seems all right

I get 1.3V from ground to LED+
and 0.56V over the LED

read the TI datasheet is says that the power safe mode pin must not be open, it has 3 pads so I have to solder bridge one?

H1-A and H2-C in 17mm

Oh I’m so sorry, I forgot to to write it down and tell you! You have to solder bridge the middle pad to one of the outer ones. It must not be left open. Do NOT short out all 3 pads. There’s a small “E” of enable, and a “D” for disable power save mode. You can look at the datasheet to learn a bit more about the two modes.
It’s there for better efficiency at low currents. Since your running it at 1.4A, short the middle one with the “D” next to it (I think it could have a bit higher efficiency). You can enable it if you want, but I would only activate it if I’m under 150mA.

Edit: The 6mA is mostly because of the OpAmp quiescent current. It’s about 4.6mA typically.

Yeah I did solder the bridge, but still no output for the LED
Added C8 nothing changed

Checked the Buck chip for all connections and its fine

could you troubleshoot this driver if I send you 3 of them?

I can troubleshoot them if you want, here are some pictures of the board and the schematic. Could you check all the traces? The pictures help you which pads are connected, check them for continuity. Could you make some photos of your boards as well? Link: https://imgur.com/a/315u7

If someone finds a mistake, please tell me.
Note: the one airwaire (coloured yellow) is there because Eagle won’t let me create polygons without something in it with the same signal. I placed a pad there on the bottom layer, so this one airwire can be ignored.

In the schematic, the pad on the input is called Bat-, it should be Bat+.

I measured the board the connections from the buck/Boost driver to the other parts are all like the board design

and no shorts between two pins of the buck converter measured

I build now all 3 drivers and test if one works


And just leave C8 open. Wait, is there a 206 resistor on R1? That is 20 mega ohm. You need 20 milli ohm there.

Was about to comment, R1 looks like sense resistor so I think 20m was 20 milliohm, 206 is 20 megaohm, so would make sense if no light with 20 meg in series with the emitter.

OK it makes sense was a bit wondering about 20MOhms but I thought with C8 some kind of protection for the OPAmp

but as I had no layout I thought it is 20MOhms

Shoki you may have a 0,02Ohms 0603 resistor that you can send me 3?
or I add there some 0.02mm² wire of a certain length

I got here only 3 0.1Ohms 0805 resistors in my box
I think I got some dead Klarus XT11 Drivers I may salvage a few 0.05Ohm 0805 resistors

and a small zip lock filled with stripped driver parts I may find some small resistors