Couldn't get my ultraOK to change in the oven, even on full (250c). Used a hot air gun (paint stripper) and it worked pretty quick, had to hold it VERY close tho.
I have also baked something in the oven:
I wonder if this one was made by cooking it.
Here is my try, it is a bit darker than on the picture, I did not leave it much since it began to change its color in the oven, and I like it :)
It took about half an hour placed at about 50mm from the heating resistance, at 250Cº
Here's my SuperBright 7-2 complete with the Mr.BrightLights anodizing treatment and mini Foyzel job:
There were already a lot of scratches/wear since this is my EDC pocket light and gets carried with my keys. Its color transmogrified nicely. The body and tailcap turned into a nice Coppery-gold while the head remained a slightly darker shade, even though it has thinner walls and was the same distance from the heating element. This was after about 1.5 hrs. in my toaster oven on the hottest Broil setting.
Haha u guys are mad men ,lol well I’m glad u guys ar digging it, yeh old lumens we did the torch for the tide dye or camo look as well , someone said bake , baking takes too long , the longer u broil it the lighter it will get ;). I love mt dry like this ,it was just plain before
As for the other colors we did the grey and it turned a green color if memory serves me correct
In that picture they were just starting to cook that is why each piece was different 
Here's a very battered Uniquefire HS-802. The head was very seriously glued. See here for details of major maintenance. Baked at 300oC for around an hour.
While hitting them with a torch for the camo look did you dunk it to cool it off quickly so it wouldn’t continue to change each time you torched a new camo marking on it?
When we did it well I put the light in a mini vice and we do an area wait 5 minutes and hit another area , I never got the camo effect though I wasn’t trying to , I was doing a splotchy like a tide eyed shirt look ,lol I never dipped mine , aluminum cools very quickly , btw disclaimer try at your own risk ,lol
Oh I didn’t use a torch either it was a Warner heat gun
heated the TF D1 titanium in one spot w/ propane torch until the ano BUBBLED - still silver
edit; and that was the smallest, lightest part (bezel)
I'll cook a silver 504B body soon just to see what happens.
I suspect nothing good. Type 2 anodising involves dyes - type 3 there are a very limited range of dyes that will work.
I can bake a type3 body in olive green (Fenix E01) as well. A few hours at 300C (Which is as high as my oven goes) will sort most anodising.
Ya, like snap crackle pop! Now I have to go Google Heat Treating Aluminum and Quenching...
Edit: I'm back 
- Okay, here's a little info I didn't know (there's a LOT I don't know).
Aluminum hardens in a totally different way from steel -- and is "annealed" differently too. To harden steel you heat it and quench it quickly. That's how you ANNEAL aluminum! Tempered aluminum's springiness comes mostly from its alloying elements. After annealing, the hardness will gradually return of its own accord.
Hardened aluminum can be temporarily annealed by heating it to about 500 degrees F, and quickly quenching it with cold water. It will then remain soft for between a few hours and a couple of days (depending on how hot the weather is); gradually regaining its original hardness. (To speed up the re-hardening, you can re-heat the aluminum in boiling water or a 250-degree oven for a half hour or so.)
Now I will try a "pattern" with a hotter torch and some water to keep the heated areas from slowly creeping outwards. It's worth a try...
Nobody got stuck with a tailcap that didn’t screw on easily?
So after their "hot-air"bath, everything stays at their old size?
Nothing shrinks?
One removes everything that might be melted first. Including tailcaps and the like.
Go get em old lumens ,lol. Yes disassemble the entire light , only cook or torch the aluminum parts that are anodized, burnt rubber stinks;)lol
Sorry, I wasn’t talking about the rubber parts, but about the tailcap itself,
without the rubber/plastic parts.
I suppose that heating up aluminum will let it expand a bit
And I thought that 2 parts could get a little different afterwards and not fit anymore.??
Tailcap and body, or head / bezel and body
I am also concerned about change in the aluminums properties.
There is a chance they could lose strength isn't there? Or deform in some way?
I had some pricey cast aluminum rims and just the heat used to bake them after being powdercoated took away alot of their strength. I know its just a flashlight, not a critical automotive part, but I just think bad things when I think of heating aluminum now lol.
I was worried about the tolerances being off after 'broiling' my tight-tolerance built flashlight haha
I don’t think that should be an issue unless u heat it to a melting point , which I don’t recommend 
I and it seems many here now haven’t had a part not fitting back issue yet but again just my two cents , I’m no pro ,I’m just a person that likes to experiment ,lol