While hitting them with a torch for the camo look did you dunk it to cool it off quickly so it wouldn’t continue to change each time you torched a new camo marking on it?
When we did it well I put the light in a mini vice and we do an area wait 5 minutes and hit another area , I never got the camo effect though I wasn’t trying to , I was doing a splotchy like a tide eyed shirt look ,lol I never dipped mine , aluminum cools very quickly , btw disclaimer try at your own risk ,lol
Oh I didn’t use a torch either it was a Warner heat gun
heated the TF D1 titanium in one spot w/ propane torch until the ano BUBBLED - still silver
edit; and that was the smallest, lightest part (bezel)
I'll cook a silver 504B body soon just to see what happens.
I suspect nothing good. Type 2 anodising involves dyes - type 3 there are a very limited range of dyes that will work.
I can bake a type3 body in olive green (Fenix E01) as well. A few hours at 300C (Which is as high as my oven goes) will sort most anodising.
Ya, like snap crackle pop! Now I have to go Google Heat Treating Aluminum and Quenching...
Edit: I'm back 
- Okay, here's a little info I didn't know (there's a LOT I don't know).
Aluminum hardens in a totally different way from steel -- and is "annealed" differently too. To harden steel you heat it and quench it quickly. That's how you ANNEAL aluminum! Tempered aluminum's springiness comes mostly from its alloying elements. After annealing, the hardness will gradually return of its own accord.
Hardened aluminum can be temporarily annealed by heating it to about 500 degrees F, and quickly quenching it with cold water. It will then remain soft for between a few hours and a couple of days (depending on how hot the weather is); gradually regaining its original hardness. (To speed up the re-hardening, you can re-heat the aluminum in boiling water or a 250-degree oven for a half hour or so.)
Now I will try a "pattern" with a hotter torch and some water to keep the heated areas from slowly creeping outwards. It's worth a try...
Nobody got stuck with a tailcap that didn’t screw on easily?
So after their "hot-air"bath, everything stays at their old size?
Nothing shrinks?
One removes everything that might be melted first. Including tailcaps and the like.
Go get em old lumens ,lol. Yes disassemble the entire light , only cook or torch the aluminum parts that are anodized, burnt rubber stinks;)lol
Sorry, I wasn’t talking about the rubber parts, but about the tailcap itself,
without the rubber/plastic parts.
I suppose that heating up aluminum will let it expand a bit
And I thought that 2 parts could get a little different afterwards and not fit anymore.??
Tailcap and body, or head / bezel and body
I am also concerned about change in the aluminums properties.
There is a chance they could lose strength isn't there? Or deform in some way?
I had some pricey cast aluminum rims and just the heat used to bake them after being powdercoated took away alot of their strength. I know its just a flashlight, not a critical automotive part, but I just think bad things when I think of heating aluminum now lol.
I was worried about the tolerances being off after 'broiling' my tight-tolerance built flashlight haha
I don’t think that should be an issue unless u heat it to a melting point , which I don’t recommend 
I and it seems many here now haven’t had a part not fitting back issue yet but again just my two cents , I’m no pro ,I’m just a person that likes to experiment ,lol
No issues here. The melting point of aluminium is 660C so we aren't even close to the point where dimensional changes will matter.
The alloys used in lights will melt at a lower temperature than that 6061 melts at around 600F
Dimensional changes may matter a oven temperatures but I've not seen them to be an issue.
probably worth mentioning, I'm stripping the ano from aforementioned D1 (w/ super clean) and the parts that I heated VERY hot w/ the torch are much more difficult to strip. Probably doesn't imply the coating is more resistant to mechanical wear, but it is definitely more resistant to alkali
From what I could glean from the interwebs, it's likely due to a contraction in pore size.
During anodizing, it's recommended to rinse with COLD water before applying dyes, as hot water will close the pores in the metal, inhibiting dye penetration.
I bet that once the reaction starts, it comes off with extended soaking time.
I plan on doing some selective ano removal, then off to the broiler. Orange/silver, anyone ?
Well this is funny , u will never guess this nor wouldni, my wife and I were cooking some shake and bake pork chops and she saw me playing with my dry the other nigh and asked me to do hers, lmao so while oven was hot I stuck it in there , but I have to have one of the coolest wives ever ,hahaha I’ll post pics when done
The Sipik looks very nice after the trip to the spa.
Do you happen to have any good stock picks or lottery numbers you'd like to share? 
Bet the house on the giants Sunday ,lol I’m kidding
the fact that she even owns one proves that!
so, the ano wouldn't come off the bezel at ALL - 2 or 3 hours in super clean - I even took it out once and heated the super clean in the microwave. for comparison, all the ano came off the tailcap in less than 15 minutes.
I just sandblasted the whole thing because on other parts where some came off, but not all of it, the exposed aluminum was fizzing from reaction with the super clean
I also tried scraping the spots the super clean wouldn't remove - the heat definitely made it MUCH tougher than the original finish
YMMV...