I compared it to the SR90 because selfbuilt measured it at 112.5 kcd of throw, and my D1S gets 123 kcd.
Physically, they’re almost nothing alike. The SR90 is huge, and can throw a lot farther when given a different driver and LED. But in stock form, their throw is pretty similar.
When the SR90 was new, I saw his review and wanted one, but couldn’t justify the price or the size. It kind of stuck in my mind though, as a milestone to aim for someday… and now that milestone fits easily into my purse.
Nope. Mine has non-stock firmware so it wouldn’t be a very useful test result anyway.
However, the graph should look pretty predictable since it doesn’t really need to step down. Typical direct-drive curve starting at around 6 amps and going until LVP kicks in. It’d probably run about 45 minutes before LVP.
In that case, don’t get one. These things come in multiple flavors because different people have different tastes.
I like the D1 (18350) because it’s small enough to EDC, and throwier than any of my other EDC-able lights. The D1S throws a lot better, but I find it’s too big to conveniently carry around.
But of course, and the SR-90 was equipped with an Luminus SST-90, an emitter not like anything else on the market in construction and output as well as current capability, and cost right at $400. Vastly different light, in size, output, beam profile and virtually everything else about it. I have the SR-90, got it with a Vinh modified SBT-70 and was asked to change it for better throw. This done, the owner soon got out of flashlights almost entirely and gave me the light. Comparing a vintage model to a sleek new factory racer is not really fair.
Since the D1S is virtually a modified flashlight, straight from the factory, it really doesn’t compare to other lights it’s size until said lights are modded in like kind. This is one of the great things about it, Hank took care of the details so we wouldn’t have to!
I like how it’s a D1 with an enlarged head from the D1’s bezel up, keeping the family resemblance in form as well as UI. Very nice! (tempting to simply recreate my D1 into such a monster as this my own self. )
It would still be useful, because some of us here aren’t planning on staying with the stock firmware . Thanks for the estimate anyway.
I agree, to each his/her own. I just wish the D1 could maintain its output at Turbo a little bit longer. But I know that would be difficult without getting into problem with its temperature.
As a side note, in the Thermal Regulation section of your review, I noticed you labelled the y-axis “Relative Brightness” but the figures are in lumens I presume.
Nope, but it can be nice on occasion to see how far we’ve come. For example, a $5 Raspberry Pi Zero performs better in almost every way than a computer I got a couple decades ago for $5000.
Five years of development has done good things to the size and price of high-performance flashlights.
You can set its temperature limit higher. I showed one with default settings, which are pretty conservative, and it still went over a minute before any adjustment happened… or about 7 minutes to settle at a stable temperature.
Ish. I used zak.wilson’s ceilingbounce app to measure that, and it relies on my phone’s light sensor… which doesn’t seem to have a linear response. So the values are not in lumens. I scaled the peak of the graphs to match the peak lumen values I had measured earlier with better equipment, but everything below that is skewed.
I’m getting 1397.25 lumens on the sliced XP-L W2 2B, should be higher than that seems like. Color is good on it, wish I could find more of these emitters. They are NOT the XP-L2, the W2 shows bond wires and the little dots on the phosphor, while the XP-L2 is like the XP-G3, like upside down with no bond wires or dots and the egg yolk appearance. This W2 shows the smaller flat on the side of the dome, so I know it’s different but can’t find a source for them. The second time I ordered from Cutter they sent something else. Go figure.
contactor, if it only gave 1.5A to the XHP-35 we’d be better off staying with the XP-L HI, or a de-domed XP-L or XM-L2. Perhaps a de-domed XP-G2? Maybe a buck driver to run two of the Aspire 18350’s and push the XP-G2 de-domed to around 5.5A?
Or figure out what works to de-dome the Luminus SST-40 and push it around 7A?
The H2-C boost driver is probably way too thick. The driver cavity on a D4 is pretty shallow, with virtually no extra room beyond the clearance needed by the attiny85.
About the lanyard ring, it’s part of a SolarForce L2 clip. It’s the best clip solution I’ve found so far, but it doesn’t work without modifications. The inner diameter needs to be expanded, and the tailcap needs a washer to fill the gap created by the clip ring.
These technically can work on the D1 or D1S, but it’s awkward due to the head being wider. The D1S in particular has a pretty small gap for fabric to fit into. But it works reasonably well on a D4:
These things come in multiple flavors because different people have different tastes.
. Thanks for the estimate anyway.
