It would still be useful, because some of us here aren’t planning on staying with the stock firmware . Thanks for the estimate anyway.
I agree, to each his/her own. I just wish the D1 could maintain its output at Turbo a little bit longer. But I know that would be difficult without getting into problem with its temperature.
As a side note, in the Thermal Regulation section of your review, I noticed you labelled the y-axis “Relative Brightness” but the figures are in lumens I presume.
Nope, but it can be nice on occasion to see how far we’ve come. For example, a $5 Raspberry Pi Zero performs better in almost every way than a computer I got a couple decades ago for $5000.
Five years of development has done good things to the size and price of high-performance flashlights.
You can set its temperature limit higher. I showed one with default settings, which are pretty conservative, and it still went over a minute before any adjustment happened… or about 7 minutes to settle at a stable temperature.
Ish. I used zak.wilson’s ceilingbounce app to measure that, and it relies on my phone’s light sensor… which doesn’t seem to have a linear response. So the values are not in lumens. I scaled the peak of the graphs to match the peak lumen values I had measured earlier with better equipment, but everything below that is skewed.
I’m getting 1397.25 lumens on the sliced XP-L W2 2B, should be higher than that seems like. Color is good on it, wish I could find more of these emitters. They are NOT the XP-L2, the W2 shows bond wires and the little dots on the phosphor, while the XP-L2 is like the XP-G3, like upside down with no bond wires or dots and the egg yolk appearance. This W2 shows the smaller flat on the side of the dome, so I know it’s different but can’t find a source for them. The second time I ordered from Cutter they sent something else. Go figure.
contactor, if it only gave 1.5A to the XHP-35 we’d be better off staying with the XP-L HI, or a de-domed XP-L or XM-L2. Perhaps a de-domed XP-G2? Maybe a buck driver to run two of the Aspire 18350’s and push the XP-G2 de-domed to around 5.5A?
Or figure out what works to de-dome the Luminus SST-40 and push it around 7A?
The H2-C boost driver is probably way too thick. The driver cavity on a D4 is pretty shallow, with virtually no extra room beyond the clearance needed by the attiny85.
About the lanyard ring, it’s part of a SolarForce L2 clip. It’s the best clip solution I’ve found so far, but it doesn’t work without modifications. The inner diameter needs to be expanded, and the tailcap needs a washer to fill the gap created by the clip ring.
These technically can work on the D1 or D1S, but it’s awkward due to the head being wider. The D1S in particular has a pretty small gap for fabric to fit into. But it works reasonably well on a D4:
D1vn with sst40, really impressed with this light and dare i say, actually prefer it to the xpl HI 5000k. My preference will usually always be 5000k over say 6000-6500k. Certainly for flood bias lights. However in thrower bias, its not a must for me. The beam is pretty much white, have to really inpsect for any rings. In use, its a very nice beam, huge hot spot(at a guess its about 2/3rds larger over the xpl HI. Spill is brighter, in fact its that bright it makes it even more useful for me.
The sst40 is great in the D1, would also be nice for some additional 4000k and 5000k flavours :+1: