For us that doesn’t have the pocket full of gold to buy fancy equipment can download the Flicker tester app if you have a iPhone to do a simple Flicker test on your flashlight.
Here’s another example of how the snob index is quite high with lights that have extremely short pulses (low duty%) but the frequency in the thousands.
The snob index the easiest way to determine whether the flickering is visible. The lower the better. Values under 10% are great. For example most people don’t notice incandescent flickering which gets 5%. But as I said, there’s still lots more testing to do to fine tune it.
For photography and video, always aim for flat output or as small modulation as possible. High speed electronic rolling shutter will reveal most anomalies very easily and that’s exactly why the Visio app works.
There’s also this paper on detecting stroboscopic effects, but its detection probability and acceptability formulas are only intended for 50% duty cycle square wave light sources. Not just PWM, since the wave’s minimum can be greater than zero. It’s a good read anyway.
For a 3rd option you can use your multimeter if it has a frequency measuring option. All you need is a small solar panel and a 1K ohm resistor. The panel from an old calculator or garden light works great. The resistor doesn’t have to be 1K, anything from 500 ohm to 10K should work fine. Smaller resistor will be less sensitive but improves response time.
Put the panel, resistor and meter all in parallel. The meter’s frequency and duty cycle measurements should be good enough for most lights.
Yep, the solar cell + dmm works well for detecting the frequency, but that’s all it does (unless it has a duty cycle measurement as well). With a good benchtop dmm you only need an LED for a sensor.
Forgot to say, even without a frequency measurement you can still approximately calculate flicker modulation. Measure the AC and DC voltage across the cell. Flat (0%) will have no AC and only DC. A full on/off strobe will have an AC component larger than the DC component. I can’t be any more specific than that because how a square wave is measured by your meter depends on whether or not it uses True RMS. There are equations for converting meter readings for square waves, one of them should apply to whatever meter you use.
The flashlight push out to much light? I don’t know.
What happens if you put one more paper as diffuser? Or as many papers you can put on before it says “not enough light”?
Hold the camera really steady so it don’t move around, or better if you can just lay it down there so it’s still.
Can’t really think of anything else at this moment except rebooting the phone and try again.
maukka,
I just put up a post about using a 192KHz sound card and O-Scope software to look at PWM.
The software I used is available here:
There is a stand alone version so it can be used without installing it.
It has various filters and counters as options.
Could you take a look at it and see if something could be pulled out of it to relate to your SNOB index?
Love the name BTY.
It would be really cool if basically free hardware and software could be use to evaluate a lights PWM SNOB index.
I’m amazed at the number of lights out there that are basically awful as far as PWM on their lower settings.
All the Best,
Jeff
I've mentioned this before, an LC filter can smooth out PWM. Since space inside a flashlight is limited and current to the led emitter is big, I wonder how fast the PWM frequency should be for this to be feasible.
An LC filter has been brought up many times on BLF and the conclusion was that with the frequencies that are actually annoying, the cap size needed to smooth it out is too big to fit inside a flashlight.