I think that should work. It looks like anything up to 67mm is probably okay.
Not sure that I can call the D1S “peak flashlight”, but it is unusually throwy for its size. You could also make it throw even more by putting in an Oslon Black Flat or dedomed XP-G2, if you don’t mind a smaller hotspot. Getting it focused properly may be a bit tricky too, because these things usually are.
When I take one with me, it’s usually the D4 or D1, or both, because their smaller size makes them more convenient. The D1S can fit in my purse too, though it’s a bit large to have in there all the time. But when I’m not concerned about convenience at all, I’ll probably use a BLF GT. That’s a lot closer to what I’d consider “peak flashlight”, considering that the whole point of it is to “turn it up to eleven”.
Got to thinking about the beam profile and output of the SST-40 in the D1, I changed out the emitters in my Q8 this afternoon as one of the XP-L2’s was damaged, so I used one of the 3 remaining XP-L2 V6 1C emitters in the D1 and it’s making 2387.4 lumens from a freshly charged Sanyo 20700A. Serious little monster it is!
What’s the maximum current draw of any configuration of this or the D1 or D1s? I’m guessing a 4 LED will draw more current than the XPL? So far I’ve seen that the D1S tops out at 6A with the XPL I haven’t seen anything on the 4 up configuration.
Actually, given DBCustoms’ comment about 12 Amps or more possible, What I really want to know is what’s the best 18650 to use in these beasts. The 3 best ones in HKJ’s review do fine at 10A but don’t like 15 A at all.
Quad’s can run up to 12A or more, where a single emitter isn’t usually so high. The new emitters are breaking new ground though, with the SST-40 capable of well over 9A and the XP-L2 also up there towards 10, surprising really.
The highest current draw I’ve seen to date in a flashlight is a triple XHP-70.2 I built, pulling 32.2A from 2 iJoy 21700’s.
Thanks! I edited the OP before I saw your reply. What do you think the best 18650 battery for these D series is given that the top 3 in HKJ’s review could handle 10 A but wouldn’t survive 15?
There are quite different current draws between the D4 (reports of up to 20A) and D1/D1S (6A). I would assume that the usual suspects 30Q/VTC6/VTC5A would be cream of the crop in the D4. Given the lower current requirements in the D1/D1S I would expect that performance with Sanyo GAs wouldn’t be too far behind the higher drain batteries. However this is purely theoretical - I’m sure others can chime in!
Stephen nailed it, survival seems such a harsh word, if a cell can’t deliver 15 to 20 Amps in a quad then it will give what it can, it’s not gonna die just because the 4 dies want more. A Panasonic PF may give 8 or 9A where the 30Q gives 18A, both survive, the light just makes less output on the lesser cell.
VTC5A is probably the top dog, with VTC6 and 30Q hot on it’s heels. Efest 3000mAh in the dark metallic purple is right up there with them. The LG HE-4 also is an excellent performer. The LG HE-2 isn’t far behind nor is the 25R. The Efest 35A is still an excellent and viable choice. There’s a lot of cells that will work well in the D4, all of these will get the light too hot to hold in short order.
I did this cell test in an HD2010 variant light equipped with the Luminus SBT-70 emitter. Notice how some cells can produce very similar output in lumens at quite different current draw, yet all cells tested worked in the light, albeit with varying results. So a lesser cell can be used to control max output and thus, heat. If you’re loaning a hot rod light, equip it with a lesser cell to ensure the noob doesn’t damage anything. The lesser cell doesn’t die, it just doesn’t deliver the max power. The only case where survival may come into play is with a protected cell, it’s possible these turn off and won’t come back on if a high discharge activates the protection circuit. Good protected cells won’t do this, but there are a lot of different protection circuits on the market…
Usually more than just one that’s waiting to be bought… 