i also made AA vampire light from plumbing parts fits perfectly (just plug and play) 
The light can run on dead AA bateries people throw in the bin and it will run about 2 weeks continuously
Forward clickie fit in perfectly.
no machining is needed
Plug and play. Your either a genius or an idiot. 
Hows the water leak? 
Hey MDsDNF
It’s not water proof and I don’t intend to put in water rather use it as night lamp to drain dead AA batteries.
Although I can silicon seal the gap and put O rings but too much hassle
Sorry, I meant the water leak where there is now a hole in the wall where the tap was. . Just me being silly.
Here is the head MRsDNF
Had a spare XP-L 3D from the Astrolux S1 and decided to swap it to the Lumintop Tool AA.
Here’s the ceiling shot of Eagletac D25a Ti CW and Tool AA with XP-L 3D. Sorry about the cell phone photo as it does not capture the true color.
Good tip Firelight2. I’ve noticed with some of my bypasses that the solder has worn and has flat spots, but not too much to be concerned. If anything, the flat spots seem to help with conductivity. But I suppose at some point, the solder will eventually wear away too much, and then it will start to wear against the bypass wire or the spring.
Made my first attempt at “De-Anodizing” a light.
I turned my black anodized A6 , into a shiny , black “highlighted” A6.
Nice, diggin' the black & metal.
I reworked the Olight TC-10 Ti spare battery case again today. It's been a few different versions, MT-G2, XM-L2
Now it is XP-L2 HD V4 3C 5000K 80CRI.
I filed out the tube to take a 16340 cell and enlarged the bezel hole for a reflector. I used a pill module from an OTR M3 with lighted switch this time, 2000k resistor feed for the green electronic switch LED. Still turns red when the LVP warning kicks in.
DTP 20mm KD MCPCB, magnetic tail with copper and lockout function. Around 730lm on turbo.
Made my first 3D printed lens cap. I want to make for every flashlight of mine above 35mm head diameter.
First I made one for my Emisar D1 because it is small and I not wasting too much filament with setups. I made 4 rings of the top 3mm to test fitment and then made the final product.
I think I will try to make diffuser for my Q8 but I need to use it with low power not to melt it.
Pretty dang cool Zozz! Like it! Does the name show up in a beam profile if you sine it close?
Yesterday afternoon I tinkered with my Q8. 
Made some changes to the light to allow the use of 4 20mm SinkPAD mcpcbs and on these I re-flowed 4 Luminus SST-40’s. With 4 x 22ga ground leads and a single 18ga positive, the light makes 11,247 lumens at maximum, on 4 Sony VTC5A’s with copper button tops. Was quite a bit of fine tuning, including opening up the emitter opening in the 4 reflector cups. Lowest mode is just under 5 lumens, so it works pretty good for my purpose. I have TK’s latest Anduril with flickering candlelight and lightning displays. Gotta tell ya, lightning bursts from this power level are very impressive!
Through a paper yes but with pointing the light to something no. Even from 1cm it shows full green spot. Maybe if I made big difference in thickness of the letters and the area around them.
Now I made one for the BLF Q8 too.
It making the tint so so warm. I will design a diffuser to it.
Oh now that’s nice!
It’d be really sweet on my Dad’s virtually stock Q8 (birthday present next week) but my own I’d have to be super careful not to melt it.
Very very cool, great work!
Edit: That warming of the tint would be Awesome with TK’s candlelight mode in Anduril. Might have to see if someone can make me one, the candlelight flickering alone is worth the effort I think.
Thank you!
I made a sample so now I can make any size in about a few minutes and then print.
Would it be feasible to send one to Texas? :heart_eyes: (or 3?)
The shipping cost I think about 6-7$. I can share the cad files with you and I think it is cheaper to print it with somebody in the US. But I can ship if you can’t find anybody to make it. Just need to calculate some acceptable price
I don’t know anyone that does 3D printing but surely there’s someone in the States that does. Still though, you conquered it and I like what I see from your printer so if you’d figure out what you need, I’d like to get one (or a few) in the next week or two.
And I made a diffuser design for the Q8. I hope it will work and doesn’t melt on the light
Some FourSeven lights arrived today.
The $12 Preon P1 in Blue
Not at all impressed with it. Head threads were Very loose. To the point it felt like it was going to skip. I managed to expand the body by hammering in a 1/4 in socket that had a nice smooth taper. It was a perfect fit to expand the tube and threads. Tiniest wire I have ever see used, not silicone. 28AWG was an upgrade.
The clip was not reversible to the head, light would not contact the MCPCB to power it. I decided to use a thicker 10mm Sinkpad with the Nichia 219B. The extra thickness allowed the clip to be reversed and light works now.
As I got it.
Took it apart and put it in the heated Ultrasonic cleaner
Tiny MCPCB 8mm original
Tiny wires on the double layer driver.
Socket pressed into tube to expand it.
Some 219B goodness
Stripped the Blue but not polished
