4000K? For me - great news. Always hated the fact that most throwers use CW emitters with >6000K color temperature. Sure, it makes great beamshots, but… only that. Ah, great for blinding others as well…
I hear ya. I usually unstitch any labels, logos, or branding from my clothes when it’s easy enough. Still, I think a big honking Giggles is appropriate here!
Please leave the host unbranded. Then each owner can have the light etched to suit their personal preferences. That is unless everyone agrees that FLASHPILOT would be a nice name to enhance the overall appeal!
i am very happy its 4000k, most my long range lights are cool white and when it gets humid/foggy they become useless and a crappy halogen spotlight out throws them
Here are some wall shots for comparison. They are not very good but shows the tint ok.
These are the only stock lights I own, this one is a astrolux S2 (Aka, blf A6) in the 5A tint flavor.
The A6 is a bit yellower and the beam has much more tint shift in it. Like I said before, the V2 looks like a small sun. Particularly as you turn the brightness up.
This is a solarforce P6 with a CW emitter for comparison.
I did, they seem to be about ~4% higher on average then the V1 BUT as I said before my readings can vary by +/-10% depending on the day, humidity ect. Which is why I don’t post the actual numbers.
I also can’t get good readings at distance due to these factors, the calculated CD goes down as I move back further.
Although I might take some longer range readings again now that I have this warmer LED to see if it fairs any better.
Once we are done with V2 for the approval process I plan to send it to VOB to do some direct comparisons with the V1 that he still has.
You’re talking about the candela dropping, not the lux dropping, right?
They shouldn’t maintain past 7m, that would only be in ideal conditions in a vacuum.
The farther you go the more atmosphere there is and the more accurate your values get.
Can you explain why the drivers look so different?
Proto 1:
Proto 2:
If the positive voltage goes through the center spring and post, how does the negative voltage get to the driver on Proto 2 since it’s missing the bigger ring on the driver?