What did you mod today?

Made my first attempt at “De-Anodizing” a light.
I turned my black anodized A6 , into a shiny , black “highlighted” A6.

Nice, diggin' the black & metal.

I reworked the Olight TC-10 Ti spare battery case again today. It's been a few different versions, MT-G2, XM-L2

Now it is XP-L2 HD V4 3C 5000K 80CRI.

I filed out the tube to take a 16340 cell and enlarged the bezel hole for a reflector. I used a pill module from an OTR M3 with lighted switch this time, 2000k resistor feed for the green electronic switch LED. Still turns red when the LVP warning kicks in.

DTP 20mm KD MCPCB, magnetic tail with copper and lockout function. Around 730lm on turbo.

Made my first 3D printed lens cap. I want to make for every flashlight of mine above 35mm head diameter.
First I made one for my Emisar D1 because it is small and I not wasting too much filament with setups. I made 4 rings of the top 3mm to test fitment and then made the final product.
I think I will try to make diffuser for my Q8 but I need to use it with low power not to melt it.


Pretty dang cool Zozz! Like it! Does the name show up in a beam profile if you sine it close?

Yesterday afternoon I tinkered with my Q8. :wink:
Made some changes to the light to allow the use of 4 20mm SinkPAD mcpcbs and on these I re-flowed 4 Luminus SST-40’s. With 4 x 22ga ground leads and a single 18ga positive, the light makes 11,247 lumens at maximum, on 4 Sony VTC5A’s with copper button tops. Was quite a bit of fine tuning, including opening up the emitter opening in the 4 reflector cups. Lowest mode is just under 5 lumens, so it works pretty good for my purpose. I have TK’s latest Anduril with flickering candlelight and lightning displays. Gotta tell ya, lightning bursts from this power level are very impressive!

Through a paper yes but with pointing the light to something no. Even from 1cm it shows full green spot. Maybe if I made big difference in thickness of the letters and the area around them.
Now I made one for the BLF Q8 too.


It making the tint so so warm. I will design a diffuser to it.


Oh now that’s nice! :slight_smile:

It’d be really sweet on my Dad’s virtually stock Q8 (birthday present next week) but my own I’d have to be super careful not to melt it.

Very very cool, great work!

Edit: That warming of the tint would be Awesome with TK’s candlelight mode in Anduril. Might have to see if someone can make me one, the candlelight flickering alone is worth the effort I think. :wink:

Thank you!
I made a sample so now I can make any size in about a few minutes and then print.

Would it be feasible to send one to Texas? :wink: :smiley: :heart_eyes: (or 3?)

The shipping cost I think about 6-7$. I can share the cad files with you and I think it is cheaper to print it with somebody in the US. But I can ship if you can’t find anybody to make it. Just need to calculate some acceptable price :slight_smile:

I don’t know anyone that does 3D printing but surely there’s someone in the States that does. Still though, you conquered it and I like what I see from your printer so if you’d figure out what you need, I’d like to get one (or a few) in the next week or two. :slight_smile:

And I made a diffuser design for the Q8. I hope it will work and doesn’t melt on the light :smiley:

Some FourSeven lights arrived today.
The $12 Preon P1 in Blue
Not at all impressed with it. Head threads were Very loose. To the point it felt like it was going to skip. I managed to expand the body by hammering in a 1/4 in socket that had a nice smooth taper. It was a perfect fit to expand the tube and threads. Tiniest wire I have ever see used, not silicone. 28AWG was an upgrade.
The clip was not reversible to the head, light would not contact the MCPCB to power it. I decided to use a thicker 10mm Sinkpad with the Nichia 219B. The extra thickness allowed the clip to be reversed and light works now.

As I got it.

Took it apart and put it in the heated Ultrasonic cleaner

Tiny MCPCB 8mm original

Tiny wires on the double layer driver.

Socket pressed into tube to expand it.

Some 219B goodness

Stripped the Blue but not polished

Neat little light, nice mods. I’d love it for the style, but like you I’d absolutely have to change it up. Love the blue though…

That was one very creative way to fix the threads vw. :beer:

Updated my EDC scratch built DBC-04 Ti/Cu 18500 light with XP-L2 V6 1C’s replacing the Nichia 219C’s and a Carclo quad optic replacing the Khatod. The optic swap required a 3.55mm spacer which I cut from brass. (had some of the hard to cut pure oxygen free copper, didn’t feel like fighting it)

I also fitted it with a double sided AR coated thick glass lens to protect the Carclo from scratches.

It went from 3400 lumens to 4123 lumens, I lost the tighter beam profile of the Khatod and now it’s a flood monster.

The triple channel TA driver keeps current draw very reasonable right up to Turbo, where it jumps from 2.43A to 14.11! The first 5 levels are all under 1A draw, so run time in everything but the Turbo level is surprisingly good. The 1000mAh 18500 is the limitation, had I made it for the 18650 output would be simply ridiculous. :slight_smile:

Love that light DB. It’s perfect in every way.

Thanks MRsDNF.
Thought about rolling the head to try and shrink but wasn’t positive it would get smaller. So I went bigger on the other end. Took some time to scrounge just the right tool to git’er done. Worked and no cracks.

I found a package in my mailbox when I got home from work today. It was from Richard @mtnelectronics, which is always a good thing. Soldered up the clear C8 host with the SST40 on 20mm noctigon mcpcb with a dab of arctic silver. Mtn17dd driver with Crescendo (Thanks for that TK it’s excellent). Both springs are wire bypassed as I assume by now is some kind of BLF law. Haha.

The reflector centering disk that came with this clear C8 did not work with the SST40. I left it out and everything worked great. The last C8 I built was a XHP50.2 from a prebuilt light. That light had a square hole in the disk that sat around the emitter base which worked perfectly.

Turningbluechips: You need 9mm XML centering rings for SST40. You can buy it at fasttech, Simon Aliexpress Convoy store, and some other places.

The same XM footprint square hole centering ring will work with your SST-40, but the trick is finding one that also mates up with the opening in the C8 reflector. If the hole in the reflector is too small you can open it up to match the centering ring by using one blade of a good pair of scissors, carefully and from the outside (bottom) of course, taking it slow will net you a nice fit if you are into that kind of thing. :wink: