The_Driver wrote:

Thanks for the extensive test!
Your wires seem a bit long though. What AWG did you use?

I think in practise it doesn’t matter too much. The Turbo2 mode is not very useful for a headlamp. The runtime is too short and it dims too fast.

zak.wilson has showed that you can use this driver with a 6V Nichia LED and you will get more practical modes (highest mode will be 60min) with higher efficiency (Nichia 144A R9050 @840 otf Lumen for 55-60min).

I agree regarding the Prime Pro XHP-35. I think it would make more sense to keep using a 3V LED. They could just use a higher Bin (XP-L W2) and maybe increase the current to 3.5A to get a bit more brightness.

Could you tell us the designations printed on the ICs on the driver? This could help us understand it better.

The original AT wire core was 0,4mm thick. I used 0,8mm core.
Will try to mod it later using the H2C or H1A boost driver from Kaidomain. Wizard will accept up to 22mm driver.
Here’s the clearer picture:

OP updated with 6V test

The problem with my driver is it showed erratic output by the end of the test. In 6V mode only in one brief moment it showed “correct” result (2,41A in turbo 2). Then it’s more like a lower random output before it finally stopped working.
I will test again using different driver. I had to use long wires, will try to cut it down as much as possible later

The_Driver wrote:

I’m guessing you opened yours with your bent screwdriver?

It’s only possible with OEM bezel. I did many bezel removal successfully with no cracked lens nor damaged. But when I ordered the black bezel version. For strange reasons, AT uses two O-rings, sandwiching the glass lens. That makes no room for any tools. Normal Wizard or Tiara have 1,5mm space for pry tools to work.
I think newer Wizard Pro uses two o-rings due to some cracked lens reports.

Runtime test added:

- Clemence

The_Driver wrote:

Very, very good regulation! It’s very flat and steps down a the end to give you enough time to change the battery. The prime runs a few minutes less before stepping down. The XHP-35 probably has a littl ebit higher Vf compared to the XHP-50 because of the smaller dies.

If you look closely the flashlights didn’t shutting down after the last step down. They continued to run in firefly mode for much longer, (didn’t want to wait) I predict, for another hour or so. Each tests started with 4,19V and ended at 2,85ish V
With Sony VTC the Turbo 2 will have longer flat runtime in Turbo 2. I prefer the 6V mod to get flatter Turbo 2 at much longer (900ish lumens).

- Clemence

UPDATE 180204:

Finally, after tedious drilling to avoid short circuit the ultra thin dielectric.

And to those doubting the white paint….

EDIT: based on Maukka’s test the Wizard must be using 70 CRI LED

- Clemence

The_Driver wrote:

The difference seems way too big…
My only intrest now is the throw.

- Clemence

Here’s the test result:

Being an R9080 the 4xE21A is dimmer than XHP50. But lower forward voltage makes for longer regulated and total runtime. At max current the difference was almost 0,5V. I adjusted the correction factor for lumen output because I forgot I moved the input hole to the side of my integrating box.

Armytek Wizard Pro WW
T1: 755 lumens
T2: 1394 lumens
M1: 26 lumens
M2: 138 lumens
M3: 333 lumens
FF1: 0,05 lumens
FF2: 0,36 lumens
FF3: 2,56 lumens

Armytek Wizard Pro + VR16SP4 (4 x E21A R9080)
T1: 591 lumens
T2: 1104 lumens
M1: 43 lumens
M2: 116 lumens
M3: 266 lumens
FF1: 0,095 lumens
FF2: 2,47 lumens
FF3: 4,4 lumens

As you can see from above. In lower current those E21As are more efficient but not so at higher current. In FF modes, the white paint also boost output. I didn’t believe my numbers too. So I opened a brand new Wizard Pro and rechecked it, yes it is. Unless I got two Wizard Pro with lower than average FF modes, then it is what it is.

- Clemence

The_Driver wrote:

Thanks for all the testing! The output is rather low, but that way to be expected. The normal Wizard with cw XHP50 does 1800otf Lumens in T2 and 900 in T1 acccording to Armytek (yours seems to be a bit dim, even if ww).

As promised:

- Clemence

The_Driver wrote:

Thanks! I believed you before ;). Do you have a lux meter? My interest is in the higher modes, 1-4h. If you don’t have one, you could also do a video outside against a wall from a few meters distance.

I’ll do it later this week. I also forgot to connect the LED switch wire. You can see it in my video, the button didn’t lit up, doh!
Yes I have a lux meter (TASI-632A), that’s how I did the measurement. The cd must be much lower since the quadtrix E21A has very broad beam, almost as wide as the spill. This is perfect for any close works and around trekking but not for runners like you.

EDIT:
I used Djozz standardized flashlight he sent me. My test result also not too far off those of Maukka’s and Zak’s. I don’t know how AT test their flaslights. IMHO it’s almost impossible to get 1800 OTF lumens using current driver and optic set. The bezel alone eats up ~5% off the output, AR coated glass ~2%, TIR optic ~20%.

- Clemence

UPDATE 180220:
4x E21A (6V + resistor mod) runtime

4x E21A on VR16SP4 in 6V 2s2p config (2x sm403 R9080 & 2x sm503 R9080)
Resistor changed from 0,05 Ohm to 0,025 Ohm (2x R050 stacked in parallel).

Without resistor mod, the output in 6V was roughly 70% (800-ish lumens) of the 12V (4x E21A). The output in T1 & T2 was perfectly fine but Main1, Main2, and Main3 modes became too low to be useful for daily uses.

I tried to get almost the same output as in 12V by further reducing the current sense resistor to 0,016 Ohm (triple stacking) but didn’t like the short regulated runtime for just a little extra output. Bypassing the current sense resistor made the driver behaved very similar to direct drive with almost little to no regulation (OEM 3200mAh battery). 0,025 Ohm is the best overall (output – runtime – temperature).

With 144AM R9050 and 0,025 Ohm resistor mod the max output should be very close to 1100 – 1200 lumens. But I prefer the E21A for it’s higher CRI and better efficiency at lower modes.

It’s interesting that the 6V mod doesn’t do much to add more regulated runtime. With 0,016 Ohm resistor, the output and runtime were closely matched the 12V, both using 4x E21A. Based on earlier observations on E21A R7000 behaviour: it’s very efficient up to 3A despite being a domeless, closely matched 144AM R7000 domed performance. I strongly suspect the problem is in the driver design. This driver is just too small to handle more than 15 watt output. Even the OEM 12V XHP50 can only deliver regulated max output for a brief minutes (under unrealistic water cooling). Bob McBob did a test at freezing 2,5C and the result still far from the water cooled one.

My suggestions for sensible high CRI R9050/R9080 modification outcomes are:
- 6V without resistor mod for longest regulated runtime. About 700ish lm (4x E21A) or 800ish lm (144AM) OTF output, dim Main modes, and extremely dim firefly modes.
- 6V with 0,025 ohm resistor mod for long regulated runtime. 971-1000 lm (4x E21A) or 1200 lm (144AM) OTF output and ideal Main and firefly modes. Additional benefit: doesn’t need to to use high drain battery – more extra capacity potential. Re-potting can be tricky, Loctite Stycast is a good option.
- 12V + 4x E21A without resistor mod for better regulated runtime than OEM XHP50. 1000-1100 lm OTF output, slightly dimmer main modes (Main1 is slightly brighter), and much brighter firefly modes.

EDIT: forgot to include the output

Armytek Wizard Pro WW
T1: 755 lumens
T2: 1394 lumens
M1: 26 lumens
M2: 138 lumens
M3: 333 lumens
FF1: 0,05 lumens
FF2: 0,36 lumens
FF3: 2,56 lumens

Armytek Wizard Pro + VR16SP4 (4 x E21A 12V)
T1: 591 lumens
T2: 1104 lumens
M1: 43 lumens
M2: 116 lumens
M3: 266 lumens
FF1: 0,095 lumens
FF2: 2,47 lumens
FF3: 4,4 lumens

Armytek Wizard Pro + VR16SP4 (4 x E21A 6V) + 0,025 ohm resistor
T1: 523 lumens
T2: 977 lumens
M1: 32 lumens
M2: 91 lumens
M3: 217 lumens
FF1: 0,079 lumens
FF2: 0,74 lumens
FF3: 1,72 lumens

- Clemence

Another boost gain using proper optic: 1400 OTF lumens in R9080! 300 lm gained over stock TIR optic.
As the LED die size increase, TIR optic selection becomes more critical.
4x sm653 D240 E21A R9080 are certainly outputs lower than an XHP50 CRI 70, but combined with proper optics the OTF output is dramatic.

I measured the output of 4000K (D220), 4500K (2× 3000K D200 + 2× 4000K D220), and 6500K (D240). Then I interpolated the lowest possible number using the flux bin to get approximation of 2000K D160 output. The flux bins adhere closely to the measured output. D240 E21A gets much brighter than XHP50 at lower current.

Armytek Wizard Pro WW (OEM)
T2: 1394 lumens
T1: 755 lumens
M3: 333 lumens
M2: 138 lumens
M1: 26 lumens
FF3: 2,56 lumens
FF2: 0,36 lumens
FF1: 0,05 lumens

Armytek Wizard Pro WW 4xE21A (2000K D160 – 6500K D240)
T2: 903 – 1400 lm
T1: 475 – 758 lm
M3: 205 – 330lm
M2: 86 – 145 lm
M1: 18 – 50 lm
FF3: 2,5 – 5,4 lm
FF2: 0,5 – 2,8 lm
FF1: 0,02 – 0,095 lm

- Clemence