*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

Then we are agreed. By the way, the Q8 brass ring is different, it is small in diameter, and only just meets the centre of the cell buttons, so they have a natural tendency to tilt when put in the wrong way around, so are more likely to make contact when reversed.

Traditional SRKs with no brass ring, just a flat driver surface, or other designs with brass rings that have better contact with the buttons, are less susceptible. For these, decent wrappers on the negative of the cells are probably enough to prevent contact when reversed.

Not necessarily so on the Q8, and it cannot be denied that it has happened, at least twice, and I am sure will again.

I agree This is important.
But also needs to be water proof , I know I sometimes get caught in the rain camping

I will be performing some tests eventually soon (if the weather don’t get to bad when i get it ready to test) (outdoors under controlled conditions of exactly those scenarios. ( 1 cell in reverse against the other three and full connection made. ) and other tests like a depleted cell thrown in the 4-paralell config with three fully charged. ( if any cells survive the first tests) I will build a jig to hold the cells with 10-gauge solid copper wire 8 feet to a 50 amp switch)

a good water “resistant” to rain and splashing is easily possible, but make this “waterproof” as to an IPX standard will drive costs up not completely necessary to have it reach an IPX7 or 8 level.

Because the lantern will be of a lower amps draw/load, maybe even four fusible links between the four negative traces on the bottom cap PCB is possible? ( 5 or 10 amp flat SMD fuses are cheap, and if one cell manages to contact then the fuse for that leg can blow to open the short.

I do like this plastic riser to prevent reversed cells from contacting though, especially if one cell gets inverted accidentally at night. >> Q8 modding - #1202 by 5ar

Please put me down on the interest list for one.

This looks great! Thank you all for the hard work you are putting into this project.

Count me in on the interest list please.

Looks like a great bit of kit.

Definitely agree with keeping the default modes simple!

Also while I think USB charging is really important in a lantern, I don’t think the ability to act as a power bank is that important if increasing cost and complexity. Actual power banks with quick charge are so readily available, light and compact that probably most people take one tramping, letalone car camping.

Interested

Hi,

Interested in 1 (depending on price).

Good to see this suddenly taking off and taking shape with a Team now.

Thanks for your hard work.

Appreciated.

Cheers,
S-L :slight_smile:

At the moment it’s mostly DEL doing all the work, designing a circuit which will handle light and USB in a SRK-style form factor. It may well be the hardest part of this project.

Physical host design seems like it’ll be a fair amount of work too, due to the USB port(s) and all the lantern-style adjustments to the head.

Since I’m doing firmware, I’ve got the easy job… all I have to do is port my FSM toolkit to the new driver and tweak the calibration and settings. Most of the work there was done months ago.

Ok, I thought I already joined this one………but I dont see it so,

Put me in for at least 1, more than likely 2-4 if the price is not too high.

Thanks,
Jim

I am working on doing a modification to the prototype to make the head of the lantern more stronger, (using a center bolt to hold the head & globe/shade together) but testing with two LEDs. Also will revise the drawing design to show the change that works with o-rings. Also adding tripod mounts to the bottom as some mentioned that would be as good option, (for lighting up a campsite or back yard are on a tripod.

Please add me to the list for 1.

Thanks!

This project has me excited!

Please add me to the interest list

If the LED (s) will not be in the center, and instead a bolt will be there, I’d rather see three (or four) LEDs used, so the light doesn’t become bi-directional with shadow lines between the outputs of the two LEDs.

But you’re testing it, so I’ll trust you to come up with what works. :smiley:

Rather than a center bolt, how about a center tube to use as a wire chase?

Brilliant!

That was an option to test. ( a hollow bolt/tube to run the wires to the LEDs.

Pardon if I wasn’t able to check the earlier messages, but around how much would be the approximate price of this BLF lantern?
I’d be interested, depending on the price…