D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

I liked having a low and high “setting” I could easily toggle by flipping a switch. Being able to vary different colors with the pots sounds cool too. Feel free to continue development in my absence. I make no claims on the designs.

With all of those resistors outside of the LEDs, wouldn’t they interfere with the seating of the tailcap?

Nice new additions Lexel, will order the one with individual resistors! And pd, thanks for letting everyone continue with your designs! :slight_smile:

Those resistors are pretty flat, and robust, the silicon wil just be squeezed around them I think.

I just noticed set including switch, tailcap and plastic washer for Convoy lights on banggood and aliexpress

Bangood says under restocking, aliexpress has them
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-1288-LED-Lights-Lamp-Lighting-Switch-For-Convoy-C8-M1-M2-S2-S2-Flashlight-Torch/32842239773.html

Interesting! And very inexpensive.

I’m wondering if this is because in order for it to work properly, the driver would need a bleeder added.

Ordered 5pcs now :slight_smile:

Yes, it’s because you need bleeder. Without bleeder biscotti driver goes to next modc memory (at least mine did).

You would have to experiment with bleeder values and tail resistor values to find a set that works for the biscotti driver without messing with the UI timings too much. I have not tried that for biscotti, I just know that the BLF-A6 driver works with all kinds of values and that the BLF X5/X6 driver is very choosy.

When doing mine, I’ve always just added the bleeder. I’ve never even tried without. Figured it would just take less time to add it rather than to monkey around and try without.

I have found right value long time ago :slight_smile:
I just don’t remember it.

No need to change tail resistor values.

If someone needs I will post it when I get time to disassemble my lighted S2+

I always just drop in a 680 - 750 ohm resistor and haven’t ever run into any issues. But I usually only use the nanjg105c, BLF A6, and Mtn Fet+1. Then again, I also use PD’s Rev5.3 boards - not those with the LEDs down by the switch’s PCB. Those configs use significantly different resistors on the tailcap boards.

I checked and it’s 1k resistor on my biscotti driver.

If I remember correctly, lower didn’t work good.

Very nice find and a great price! I like that it also comes with an Omten switch. Too bad that it doesn’t have a double spring like the Astrolux switch, but doing a spring bypass isn’t too hard.

Cool find XXX-man.
Spring looks like its the same one used on the Convoy store 16mm Sw assemblies with Omten. Those springs are pretty stout for compression.
Anyone catch the LED color? I missed it if listed.
Washer is kinda different with the outer wall or recess. Great price for including washer and cap.

My guess blue. Take a look at the recent Convoy S2+ Clear Review. Looks like the same switch.

LED color isn’t listed, but I didn’t care :slight_smile:
I believe it’s blue.

Washer is the same I got with my grey S2+

Got a “few” on the way. Thanks for the heads up on it.

This is my first try at this Mod and need lil help, i have the Rev5.1 version with the leds soldered onto the board with the resistors and leads, from PD first post he has a bottom board ? can someone tell me what board i need and for the bleeder resistor where do u guys buy them in different mixtures

While they can be more convenient, you don’t need a special bottom board. Just solder the leads from your top board onto your switch PCB.

You’ll need to identify the polarity of your switch board. Put your DMM in continuity check mode and make sure the switch is in the “off” position (no continuity when touching each side of the switch). Now put one lead on the spring and see which leg of the switch it goes to - this is the negative leg of your switch. Solder the negative lead from your LED board to that leg of the switch, then hook up the positive lead.

As far as bleeder resistors, I just bought a just pack of SMD resistors (from ebay? banggood?). For most of my setups, a 680 or 750 ohm bleeder has worked out just fine. Regarding placement of the bleeder, just let us know what driver you’re using and we’ll take a stab at where to put it. It needs to go from positive to ground, but that varies from driver to driver.

Thank u for the reply, im using a DD MTNElectronics driver in a convoy C8 and Eagle eye x6 hosts,once i do a few i might ass one to my L6