Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

> glow-in-the-dark shrinkwrap

Well, put just one cell in. If the light lights up, energize your shrinkwrap or take a close look at the other three cells you have in hand.
If the light doesn’t light up, swap ends on the single cell.

I keep my spare cells in a transparent plastic zipper pouch with some GITD material which is generally glowing at least somewhat from light exposure.
And also one of my spare AAA flashlights or a coin cell LED light, usually.

Wait, what? There are people who carry only ONE flashlight at a time??

In the light, a Sharpie red ring, or Toy Keeper red varnish, at the top, is a quick and useful check.

In the dark, either a standby torch to check, or some other method.

Flat button tops are almost indistinguishable by feel, at least to me.

My solder-blobbed ones are much easier to fumble the right way around. But that’s not really good enough, given the chances, and consequences, of getting just one the wrong way around.

Please take care.

Guys, where can i find the BLF Q8 logo?

:smiley:

Cheers David

Edit, I see in the other thread that you found it :stuck_out_tongue:

On the front end of the Q8 :person_facepalming: I could not resist.

I soldered 14 gauge copper wire bent into a small circle on top of my flattop batteries. In my opinion with the attached wire it’s impossible to not know which end is the positive side even in total darkness and wearing gloves. I have some that I soldered blobbed and to be honest I’m also not sure how it’s possible to miss the positive end if the blob is big enough.

I’ve been reading this ‘possible catastrophic melt-down’ scenario with interest and my opinion is that it’s up to the individual to put the batteries in right. If they don’t think they can then they should get batteries with pronounced button topss, solder on something large, or get another flashlight.

Sure it’s possible to put in the batteries incorrectly but many things in life are dangerous if done haphazardly. Putting in batteries the right way has to rank among the easiest things to do in life.

Got to study the instruction yesterday. I see no way to ramp down other than start from scratch or going all the way to the top. Am I missing something?

I’m not sure I understand your question. What is scratch?

Are any of my videos helpful?

If not, can you re-word your question?

I tried watching the videos, but it seems pointless for me now as my computer has some sound issues and I can’t hear anything.
By starting from scratch I meant turning the light off and ramping from moonlight up.

Okay, so your having trouble switching from ramping up to ramping down?

It has to do with timing. If you ramp up, release the button and then press and hold it again within 1.2 seconds, it will toggle and ramp the opposite direction.

If you wait more than 1.2 seconds, it will continue ramping in the same direction.

Just try it out and it should be easy.

I didn’t have a chance to try it on a light, just didn’t see it at all in the instruction. Thanks. :slight_smile:

This is practically the first line of the features in the manual.

Ramping – smooth 150 level ramping, simple click&hold ramps, 1 click ON to last level, 1 click OFF, direction of ramping will toggle unless you remain at a level more than 1.2 seconds.

Alternate would perhaps have been a clearer word than toggle, which may have been taken to mean on/off.

To ramp down, simply hold the button. It may go up or down, depending on which way you were going before. If it goes the wrong way, release the button and hold it again to ramp the other direction.

So, there is no reliable way to ramp down without sometimes ramping up first, but it doesn’t require going all the way to the end of the ramp before turning around. Just hold the button, and if it goes the wrong way, release and hold again.

Not sure, but seems like these would work well on the Batt- end: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1425/10012815/3748000, as long as the hole is wide enough to handle the top of the springs, I would think would prevent contact on the brass ring.

I still prefer the 3D printed plastic inserts, but they still need some tweaking. I know what can happen in the cold and dark, or distractions goin on when you are replacing the cells - that's can happen.

The Red "+" marked also sounds good. I've used Sharpies on cells and they still seem to rub off easy. I've dated my cells with a Sharpie, then put Kapton tape over it - that stays well, but in tight tubes the Kapton tape can get messed up, but they've held up well for the most part for me.

A marker with glow-in-the-dark pigment.
https://www.google.com/search?q=glow-in-the-dark+pen

good, finally my second Q8 has arrived in Spain, the first I could not try it, I sent it to Antonio, and I repair it, mine is the second round, and it needs a screw, hahaha, but it works very well, Antonio I’m going to send copper screws, I was impressed as it is, and the precious dye, I have on the way the case for grenade, other 4 Q30, and the hitch of 1/4, to put a lanyard, thanks to all, and for the other gift flashlight.

This one is so good, everyone that seen it is impressed by the light and of course by the very nice firmware.
Made a order now for a second one to go inland Finland as a present.
I am sure it will do a great job there as well now when it’s just a few hour of sun/day.
With +1900 pre-orders at the moment, I would call it a huge success :slight_smile:

-lyse99

Yesterday my 4 button top 30Qs finally arrived, ordered in August, showing around 3.4v it took almost 2600mAh to charge them.

My v1 Q8 finally shines as it was meant to, I cannot measure the output but it is quite impressive, lovely neutral tint, colours show well. What is particularly noticeable is that when aimed at a tree maybe 50m away, my A6 will illuminate it, but with the Q8 the details of individual leaves and branches sharpen dramatically, like the channel is being tuned in, for those who can remember rotary tuning TV (ok now I feel old).

I doubt I am getting the best though, as it never gets uncomfortably hot, and I haven’t modified or even cleaned up contacts yet.

One possible issue though, and I don’t remember anyone else reporting this, when left on full output for a minute or so, it wouldn’t turn off until ramped down a bit, but I haven’t been able to repeat this after a few attempts today. I will continue to watch out for this.

I suppose it’s possible that the heat has made timing changes and the threshold for a quick click (to turn off) has gotten shorter than what you have been doing?

On the subject of UI issues - here is one that I know is my fault, but I wanted to bring up so more people are aware of it.

I was packing up a Q8 to take to my Dad over Thanksgiving and locked it out - through the bubble wrap, in the box. Four clicks. The first click felt a little wonky, but - hey I got four blinks so it must be locked out! Right?
A few minutes later I noticed that the box was blinking. Q8 was in battery check mode, happily blinking out the cell voltage. The cells had been at four volts (or more) so with confirmation bias, I KNEW I was in the right place and didn’t pay further attention.

I don’t think this requires a change to the UI, just something to keep in mind.