D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

I have found right value long time ago :slight_smile:
I just don’t remember it.

No need to change tail resistor values.

If someone needs I will post it when I get time to disassemble my lighted S2+

I always just drop in a 680 - 750 ohm resistor and haven’t ever run into any issues. But I usually only use the nanjg105c, BLF A6, and Mtn Fet+1. Then again, I also use PD’s Rev5.3 boards - not those with the LEDs down by the switch’s PCB. Those configs use significantly different resistors on the tailcap boards.

I checked and it’s 1k resistor on my biscotti driver.

If I remember correctly, lower didn’t work good.

Very nice find and a great price! I like that it also comes with an Omten switch. Too bad that it doesn’t have a double spring like the Astrolux switch, but doing a spring bypass isn’t too hard.

Cool find XXX-man.
Spring looks like its the same one used on the Convoy store 16mm Sw assemblies with Omten. Those springs are pretty stout for compression.
Anyone catch the LED color? I missed it if listed.
Washer is kinda different with the outer wall or recess. Great price for including washer and cap.

My guess blue. Take a look at the recent Convoy S2+ Clear Review. Looks like the same switch.

LED color isn’t listed, but I didn’t care :slight_smile:
I believe it’s blue.

Washer is the same I got with my grey S2+

Got a “few” on the way. Thanks for the heads up on it.

This is my first try at this Mod and need lil help, i have the Rev5.1 version with the leds soldered onto the board with the resistors and leads, from PD first post he has a bottom board ? can someone tell me what board i need and for the bleeder resistor where do u guys buy them in different mixtures

While they can be more convenient, you don’t need a special bottom board. Just solder the leads from your top board onto your switch PCB.

You’ll need to identify the polarity of your switch board. Put your DMM in continuity check mode and make sure the switch is in the “off” position (no continuity when touching each side of the switch). Now put one lead on the spring and see which leg of the switch it goes to - this is the negative leg of your switch. Solder the negative lead from your LED board to that leg of the switch, then hook up the positive lead.

As far as bleeder resistors, I just bought a just pack of SMD resistors (from ebay? banggood?). For most of my setups, a 680 or 750 ohm bleeder has worked out just fine. Regarding placement of the bleeder, just let us know what driver you’re using and we’ll take a stab at where to put it. It needs to go from positive to ground, but that varies from driver to driver.

Thank u for the reply, im using a DD MTNElectronics driver in a convoy C8 and Eagle eye x6 hosts,once i do a few i might ass one to my L6

Here’s what I do (see bleeder at left-center). Spring side, scrape a little solder mask off of the grounding area that comes toward the center of the board. Solder the bleeder from the base of the spring to the area of the scraped-away solder mask.

click for a larger view

Thanks I’ll be finding a pack of different bleeding resistors

Can anyone give me some tips lol I bought this tailcap mod with the LEDs soldered to the board and my switch is working to turn the light on in high mode only but the LEDs are not lightning up

Is there anyway to test the board to see if the LEDs are at least working ?

Yup, hook up a battery (li-ion) to it. Mind your polarity

Tailcop mod cant work without a bleeder from batt+ to flaslight body

I have a bleeder resistor (750), and on the board it has 3x123 resistors,

im building another driver and was wondering does anyone have a picture like on post #1635 but on the purple MTN-17DD board ? where i could cut a trace or another location for the bleeder

Got a link to which driver you’re talking about? I don’t know (/can’t tell) what the purple driver is. Essentially, with any driver you’re looking for a convenient place to bridge + and - with a resistor.

just like this but does not have the zener pads
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_122&product_id=272

According to the image, the spring side has the same solder mask layout. Bleeder could be placed in the same position as pictured in post #1635.