Huh? A Lumintop warranty card in a Utorch box?
Food for speculation? (like why Lumintop after all these years finally manages to come out with a AA light with a driver done well, that even looks like the UT01: the EDC05)
Btw, my $9.99 neutral UT01 that on the box states to be 3D tint (5000K), is not 5000K, it is 4000K. For 70CRI Cree leds, 4000K is the danger zone, tints in the 5 region can be really ugly, but in this light I struck a good one: good yellow/red appearance with no green.
I thusfar did not have any of the UI problems reported in this thread (I use no 14500’s because it is already so good on Eneloops!), and am still amazed that such a good and complete light can be had for so little money!
Yes Sir… My thoughts exactly. Someone made an Oooopsie. “Those cards should have gone on that other packing table.”
I don’t mind the tint at all. OP reflector takes away the star look of the cut sides of the XP-L. Didn’t notice the box, yes it says 3D 5000K on the side.
Certainly one of my better Budget lights of 2017.
Took the head apart completely. Shelf is pretty good and flat. I still got the light machine marks off and chamfered the wire holes. Soft White thermal compound, not the hardening plaster stuff, was a pleasant suprise. My driver was slightly off center to the SW button hole. Hope the SW still works when aligned straight. 
While it’s apart, is there any worth while resistor mods for the stock driver? I saw an R050 but I am not well versed in the workings of electronic parts. But that resistor is accessible on the top layer. Looks about 0805 size, by the LED Neg wire.
Kinda didn’t like the feel of my fat thumb in the SW bezel. Enlarged the taper on the inner edge at the silicone button. Fat thumb should feel better now and operate SW easier.
Looking into Lumintop’s EDC05 a bit more:
[Quote Lumintop EDC05] Operation:
-When off, one click to access Moonlight, another click to circle through moonlight-low-medium-high. Long Press for off.
-When off, long press to access the memory output last use (except Moonlight), one click for circle.
-When off, double click to access Strobe, one click for circle: Strobe-SOS-Beacon, Long press for off.
-When on, double click to switch between general modes and flash modes.
[/quote]
That is the Manker UI !
And here’s the inside of the tail of the EDC05 (picture taken from the BG site):
Looking familiar?
Yeah… I saw that same spring board roll across my floor, on my second battery swap in the UT01.
The EDC05 will come in a Pretty box to satisfy the minds of those that paid 5X more and believe their light is better than the $10 UTorch.
One of two scenarios… the origins of the E11, UT-01, EDC05 come from an open source OEM manufacturer, who owns the basic design and merely takes orders from the 3 brands, making small cosmetic tweeks to them. Or, Manker (AFIAK the first manufacturer) chose to partner up with an OEM that has taken their design and tweeked it for the other two. For which Manker would have to go after them legally if they wanted to retain their design.
The OEM made a mistake putting the wrong manual in the wrong box.
Well, my original NW UT01 has been working fine with AA NiMh, and the second light NW I ordered came and, happily, works perfectly with MiMH and unprotected 14500s! So, I’m feeling good. I’d order the CW version, except I don’t want to push my luck.
A few things about the second light: It had a lumintop warantee card, my first did not.
The emitter is a bit more greenish on the second NW than the first. I’ll see if it improves at all with a little more use. If not, I’ll probably swap the emitter with my first light. That, or find a suitable replacement.
Oh, also, the leads poking through the bottom of the PCB at the bottom of the head on the second light were trimmed better/closer than those on the first light.
Me too, light worked perfectly with both NiMh and 14500 for a few minutes and then presto……….won’t turn back on unless you loosen and tighten the tail cap as to break the circuit as Jerommel said or by banging the tailcap as suggested by Muto. Bloody nuisance
Too bad, I like everything else about the light
Second UT01 4000K NW arrived today.
No workie on my flat top NiMh in this one. Had to trim down the 5 pins poking up out of the driver. All is well now with it. no other issues.
I did get another Lumintop Warranty card.
Perhaps all the bad UT01 lights should get sent back to lumintop? Seems like they want them.
Got one more on the way.
Mankert01 can be programmed like ut01 to set brightness in each mode.
Will the light auto step down to mid mode after a few minutes in high mode?
It can be set to run turbo with no stepdown.
ok, is there any info about the different brightness levels (or current draw) for each mode while in programming setup?
.
that is for example while in programming mode for moonlight, the light shows 3 different brightness levels to set, what’s the output for each of them 3?
Much obliged :+1:
Did you ever get around to fitting a tail magnet yet? I’d also like to put a a magnet in it when mine arrives.
I noticed the Lumintop version EDC05 has a magnetic tail. http://www.lumintop.com/edc05.html
Tail caps appear identical.
No haven’t messed with the UT01. No magnets on hand that would fit. Would have to search and order something.
I got a bad one too.
My second UT01 NW 5000K 3D also had a lumintop warantee card inside it and the light is more greenish then my first.
I really don’t like it.
I turned it on once and saw the horror and quickly putted it back in the box.
I have one more on the way. Fingers crossed that’s a good one.
some spare SW’s arrived today, just in case I need them.
I just got one of these and it has this issue that it won’t turn on unless I power cycle it after each turn off. And it does that both on 14500 and NiMH. The tint is very yellow (I got the NW), nowhere close to two other 3D lights I have. The springs left dents in the bottom of two NiMH I used (a Fujitsu and a Ladda), although not in the 14500. Pretty bad even for a $10 light.