My VG10 is one of the old good ones.
I’m quite fond of the Kaidomain K2 host (link ), and think that the LuxeonV might work nicely in it. I built one with a 90CRI 3000K XM-L2 and I really like it. The reflector is OP though so the hotspot is not as tight as with the VG10.
@vwpieces
For ILC-0 current there are equations on my site:
Current set resistor calculation equations :
Blue,White,Warm white,Pink,Ice blue colors :
R[kOhm]=1/(2*I[mA])
Green color:
R[kOhm]=1/(1.3*I[mA])
Red,Orange colors:
R[kOhm]=1/(0.8*I[mA])
As for LD-x4 temp. threshold, I suppose you know you can change that threshlod to desired level?
There is decription how to do that in datsheet (basically same as with LD-3), but with one difference (which is still not in datasheet,I will update it ASAP): because LD-4 has 30sec timeout fimer while in config. mode(for safety reasons), user must "preheat" flashlight while in normal mode, that means turn the flashlight on max. and wait until it's around desired threshold temperature. After that user should enter into config. mode and pick ext. temp level sub-menu and then custom threshold level. Further procedure is correctly described in datasheet.
With cold Toluene it seems to help a lot if you slice the dome off first as if you are doing the “slice de-dome” technique. This will reduce the time needed for the soak and usually will get you a good clean de-dome without taking any phos. off at all. I haven’t tried the Luxeon emitters yet, they sound very interesting.
As in many modern leds, the phosfor in the Luxeon V is not a tight layer over the die, but to me it looks like it is mixed into a layer of silicone covering the die area and around it, so by using the solvent you dissolve the phosfor-carrying substance too.
@ led4power
The temp setting did appear to time out on me several times or I had reached max value. I did to try to preheat the light before setting, thinking I could cheat the time out. I tried for a while to get it set to my liking, tried to work around the time out too. At the moment I am using 5 mode with ML, ext ntc disabled, 7.5A, CC. Will also try this setting with ntc ON and try setting thermals again. Maybe work up the CC A scale. My DD tail readings were 8.4A, perhaps max out the CC to 8A, no visible loss should be apparent.
I saw the formulas for the different colors. Thanks. I am picky about the brightness of a tail SW, I tried 4 values and went back to the one I liked best. I have a wide selection but they are 0805, they fit.
Edit:
Some thoughts on the UI…
The strobe when OTP lowers the output is really annoying. That strobe alone makes me want the OTP disabled. Its pretty obvious what happens, Strobe is unnecessary. After the thermal strobe, the light reverts to Low on the next click. With on board driver thermal And external OTP I should be able to go upagain if that output is really needed. I will be honest, I am a fan of Bistro and like the 6+ ML levels with medium click to go backward in mode and in a high output light the 7 choices are useful. But with 7 levels the going backward option is very useful to have. I have your UI set to 5+ ML. This is why I dislike it going to low again on next click after the OTP and annoying strobe.
Edit 2: I am still messing with this light. I have found if you have Memory enabled you can turn off light and turn it back on to get to higher level after OTP kicks in. avoiding the next click to Low after OTP.
Also just applied the MX4 to the threads on pill and body (didn’t take much), definitely added some time to OTP strobe and lowering level.
I put together a Convoy C8, a silver one, to get a mix of throw and power. Special request, as it were. So I used an SST-40 with a straight FET driver built from scratch and flashed with Biscotti. For the throw part, I first sliced the SST-40 just above the bond wires. Then I cut into the remaining silicone in a “dice” maneuver getting rid of the silicone on the substrate as much as possible. Then I cut this vertical slice action right beside the bond wires, straight down onto the phosphor, in preparation for a shave… very carefully slid the scalpel parallel to the phosphor just above the point I’d be shaving yellow, cut to the previous dice point and then removed that thin film. The result is that the bond wires are protected, with as little silicone left on the die as possible.
The end result is a C8 pulling 8.68A at the tail, making 2049 lumens out the front and throwing 127.75Kcd for 714.84M. Pretty decent mix of throw, power and some usable spill. 
"Strobe" is two very short blinks and they appear only once after OTP,but if it's annoying I could remove it. Also, driver goes to low mode on next click after OTP because it doen't store going to previos mode on OTP activation, I will probably update this too, so that driver memorizes mode step down after OTP.
I don’t mind double blink on step down, but really miss battery check functionality.
coooool stuff
Nice work. I’ve never got my hands on a SST-40 but wouldn’t mind playing around with a couple. I couldn’t be bothered with the slicing and dicing though. How would the beam profile be of an unmodified SST-40 in a C8? Not too concerned about max throw, but very concerned about ugly beam profiles. And where do you buy yours?
The double Strobe on OTP is annoying mostly because the same intensity on DD or highest CC. If people want to keep it, perhaps, lower the level it blinks at. On my light the Luxeon V is insanely bright for the size. That blinking is disorienting.
Also learned that my thermal calibration (with pre-heating light) wasn’t timing out. It is the driver on board OTP, 5+ blinks before it quit. And I do not believe the other settings changed at that time get stored when that happens. Not sure.
Thanks for participation and considering input from customers.
I upgraded my ZY-T08 MT-G2 dual switch modded light (Mod/Driver: ZY-T08 series conversion, MT-G2.) with a new custom 1634 based driver with FET and 8 x A705s (instead of 7135s), and a new lighted momentary side switch to replace the old boring black one.
I’ve seen a few lighted momentary switches, but this is the only one I’ve come across where the actual button protrudes the switch casing. I don’t like the ones with the button level to the casing, very unnatural pressing action on those. This one is sweet.
This is one of my work horses down in mines and caves, it usually gets pretty dirty and beat up so I’ll have to see how the new switch holds up. It’s pleasing for the eye though.
Looks real nice Mike C. Love your lighted switch mod.
I’m not sure what the o’ring seal on your battery tube to head is like but I’ve been using C8 bezel orings on mine for a far better seal.
Good to know, thanks for the tip!
Mike, I got the SST40’s from Kaidomain. The beam profile is much the same as an XM-L2 would be.
This one wound up doing 2277 lumens with a Sony VTC5A, using every trick I know. Pulling 9.49A at the tail.
Thanks. It’s an interesting LED. How is the size compared to XM-L2? I have TIR optics that fit XM-L2 perfectly, would these fit without modding the optics?
Same, difficult to see a difference
I have a Nitecore Night Officer that had a tested 900 lumens with the XM-L2, swapped in an SST-40 and got 1400 with no other changes.
Nice real patina on that light!
Share a pic of it glowing in a puddle of muck! 
Ordered a few for trial. Thanks for the inspiration and info!
I’ll take a photo of it next time it gets down and dirty