I wonder with all the single emitter flickering issues if it’s just a bad batch of drivers, or maybe Haikelite changed the design.
Too bad I was considering this light. Haikelite should respond to this issue with root cause analysis. I bet they know now.
Me too. The silver MT03 is gorgeous. Luckily the driver is easy to replace; that’s why I’m still interested in Haikelite. But now seems to be a bad time to get this light unfortunately.
My silver NW showed up today, charging up a fresh set of 30q’s to do a proper test. No flickering so far on two different sets of protected batteries as well as a half charged set of 30q’s. It did start to flicker on high on the one set of protected batteries after a mode change but after cycling through the modes to low it went away. There was a bit of audible driver whining too. I’m blaming that on the five amp protection circuit those batteries have. I tested it on my power supply just holding the test leads in place with my fingers, no issues running from 7.3 to 8.5 volts, it would flicker a bit if the ground wire wasn’t pressed hard enough. Amperage does increase with voltage, you can see the beam brighten a bit even on low. It draws around 8 amps/60 watts on turbo.
The level spacings are fine and the tint is nice, matches the NW MF01 when wall hunting. Smooth floody beam, wider hotspot than the MF01 and a good amount of spill. The only thing I have to gripe about is the tailcap did not thread on smoothly. No grease on the threads or behind the contact board. Also the solder joints on the guide pins were a little to big for the groove in the tailcap. Five minutes to disassemble, do a little filing, apply grease and reassemble. Works perfectly now.
Hope Haikelite takes this unfortunate issue as chance to show their strength in customer support. It could be battery quality/length or contact problem that might not be completely their fault. Those who buy this high wattage light should know it can have issue if certain things are not in good condition.
I just took batteries out of the MT03II 70.2 and found out the 2batteries were at 4.2V still full but other 2 were at 3.90V. Haikelite should look into the problem right away and I think most of the first badge are defected.
I just took batteries out of the MT03II 70.2 and found out the 2batteries were at 4.2V still full but other 2 were at 3.90V. Haikelite should look into the problem right away and I think most of the first badge are defected.
How is it even possible that 2 cells are not making contact?
The polarity protection rings? Are you using button top cells as recommended?
Is there a problem in the tail cap pcb? A burnt trace maybe?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I just took batteries out of the MT03II 70.2 and found out the 2batteries were at 4.2V still full but other 2 were at 3.90V. Haikelite should look into the problem right away and I think most of the first badge are defected.
How is it even possible that 2 cells are not making contact?
The polarity protection rings? Are you using button top cells as recommended?
Is there a problem in the tail cap pcb? A burnt trace maybe?
The 2 emitters were blinking like disco light since the first time I turned it on and I have already E-mail Haikelite about the problem. They promised me that they would give me a good solution but I have been waiting for about a month now and still no solution LOL. Now new problem.
What type of batteries are you using? Do they fit around the plastic polarity protection rings?
I’m using Sony VTC6.
Button top?
If you using flat top it may not work and that is what is causing the non contact.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/50666
They reccomended LG HG2 which are the same as Sony VTC6.
“You will need raised cells but not button tops. The button tops will not fit the light properly. It will still power on but it will not be waterproofed because the battery compartment will be open. I suggest LG HG2 or any style of battery that will work in series.”
Me too. The silver MT03 is gorgeous. Luckily the driver is easy to replace; that’s why I’m still interested in Haikelite. But now seems to be a bad time to get this light unfortunately.
My silver NW showed up today, charging up a fresh set of 30q’s to do a proper test. No flickering so far on two different sets of protected batteries as well as a half charged set of 30q’s. It did start to flicker on high on the one set of protected batteries after a mode change but after cycling through the modes to low it went away. There was a bit of audible driver whining too. I’m blaming that on the five amp protection circuit those batteries have. I tested it on my power supply just holding the test leads in place with my fingers, no issues running from 7.3 to 8.5 volts, it would flicker a bit if the ground wire wasn’t pressed hard enough. Amperage does increase with voltage, you can see the beam brighten a bit even on low. It draws around 8 amps/60 watts on turbo.
The level spacings are fine and the tint is nice, matches the NW MF01 when wall hunting. Smooth floody beam, wider hotspot than the MF01 and a good amount of spill. The only thing I have to gripe about is the tailcap did not thread on smoothly. No grease on the threads or behind the contact board. Also the solder joints on the guide pins were a little to big for the groove in the tailcap. Five minutes to disassemble, do a little filing, apply grease and reassemble. Works perfectly now.
Great light so far.
Will get them to respond on this issue soon.
@1theDeals
Hope Haikelite takes this unfortunate issue as chance to show their strength in customer support. It could be battery quality/length or contact problem that might not be completely their fault. Those who buy this high wattage light should know it can have issue if certain things are not in good condition.
Who else has flickering issue apart from these owners?
All existing stocks at BG are scheduled to return factory for inspection and repair (if required).
@1theDeals
I could see/reproduce flickering in one LED. But again, I'm not interested in a replacement driver from Haikelite.
I dont realy need a replacement either. Just wanted to report on the problem.
Can I have the code please? Thanks.
Interested on NW silver MT03
Thinking of 1 after the factory inspection.
Thanks.
--JB
What are the benefits with this model with XHP70.2 over the XHP70 model? Is it basically the same with newer components? Thanks.
The difference http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53361
--JB
Code please for NW silver. It’s available now.
--JB
Code Please! Thanks!
is there any word if there is a fix for this issue yet or when the lights will ship?
Thanks
INTErested
Have to wait till Black Friday Sale is over. It is hard to get hold of people during major sale period.
Replied.
@1theDeals
Thanks Freeme
Im interested – White NW please.
I’m interested in a black one with NW, depending on price. Thanks.
Interested in one NW Thanks!
im in NW
Freeme can you send me the code please! and thanks!!
I just took batteries out of the MT03II 70.2 and found out the 2batteries were at 4.2V still full but other 2 were at 3.90V. Haikelite should look into the problem right away and I think most of the first badge are defected.
How is it even possible that 2 cells are not making contact?
The polarity protection rings? Are you using button top cells as recommended?
Is there a problem in the tail cap pcb? A burnt trace maybe?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The 2 emitters were blinking like disco light since the first time I turned it on and I have already E-mail Haikelite about the problem. They promised me that they would give me a good solution but I have been waiting for about a month now and still no solution LOL. Now new problem.
What type of batteries are you using? Do they fit around the plastic polarity protection rings?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I’m using Sony VTC6.
Button top?
If you using flat top it may not work and that is what is causing the non contact.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/50666
They reccomended LG HG2 which are the same as Sony VTC6.
“You will need raised cells but not button tops. The button tops will not fit the light properly. It will still power on but it will not be waterproofed because the battery compartment will be open. I suggest LG HG2 or any style of battery that will work in series.”
Do button tops add so much length?
So raised flat tops?
Maybe regular flat tops, but with thin magnets added?
I guess you could solder blob them to get just a tiny bit more height so they make contact.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Pages