A better way would be to make the whole button a magnet. And you epoxy a plate underneath it.
So you get a verry flat T-shape, upside down.
If you consider this while construction it is easy to chose a standard flat barrel / coin sized magnet while altering the size of the bezel arround the button.
CRX did this kind of mod on his titanium Tool AAA, before he added the lit switch. EDIT: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52035
The first three pics:
1. original switch cover
2. plate + magnet + a top cover?
3. both side by side
As the backside bezel is screwed on, Lumintop could ad two switch covers, on metal, on magnetic. The user can choose.
And the optic wouldn’t alter.
I’m fairly certain that the design is carved in stone at this late date. Maybe it could happen, but I think it should have been brought up in the design phase and not now.
Understand, I have no inner knowledge, but in general after a design is finalized and is this far along, changes are doubtful. I also don’t think making this light larger (would adding a magnet make it so?), if that would be the result, is going to happen since one of the design parameters was/is it’s size, and lots of us bought it with that in mind. It’s essentially the size of the D4, with small variations, for $30.
Taken from post #1, the underline is mine:
The FW3A
Small elegant EDC triple flashlight designed by Fritz15
Runs on a single 18650 battery.
94.8 × 25.5 mm
But maybe I’m all wrong. It wouldn’t be the first time. But I do know that if it was made larger it wouldn’t do the job for me and I wouldn’t want one. I don’t need another light, but I want this one due to the stated design goals.
It was brought up,
- I read about a magnetic tail cap before.
And other stuff too
- I suggested a back and forward clipp.
- Slots for tritts
- lanyard hole
But you rarely hear something from the dev. team. (As I understand The Miller does more general communication)
Not one word what they think about it.
Also silence in the german forum.
I find that quite frustrating.
I dont think it would be much larger. CRX solution has the same size, for a smaller lamp.
We have a 18650
As comparison a Skilhunt H03 Magnet is
16 × 2 mm with a 0,5mm thick cap on it
If we want it super sticky we can go with 3 or 4mm thicknes.
From the drawing, there is the switch cover missing, but I guess 1 to 2mm is needed.
If the lamp is 4-5mm longer and I can chose between a magnetic and non magnetic tail without altering the length and optic I would go with 5mm more.
Hi, if you look at the cross section of the light you see that it’s not easy to put a magnet under the switch. The actual switch would need to have to parts of you don’t want the magnet to be visible from the outside.
Regarding the slots for tritium vitals – most of the buyers would probably not use the slots, so I think it’s a better solution to see if one of the modding guys here can come up with a switch that has tritium slots milled in.
Also, the design is pretty much decided on right now. The clip is as it was designed but we’ll look into the possibility to make it mountable between head and body as well if it does not bring any significant design changes to the design.
About muggle mode, there seem to be three ideas floating around:
Single-mode on/off at ~150 lm. (already implemented)
Idea #1, but add hold-to-ramp from ~5 lm to ~300 lm.
Clicks cycle through 2-3 levels like a common cheap light. Order/spacing not yet determined.
To exit muggle mode, it’s currently “loosen+tighten the tube”.
Gj wrote:
About reset using connecting power while holding the switch, this might be difficult for people with arthritis. Just a thought.
Fortunately, a factory reset shouldn’t be needed. It might be possible since it’s a thing people seem to like, but the settings aren’t particularly botchable.
However, it occurs to me that loosening the tube will also physically disconnect the button… and when tightening the tube there may be no way to ensure that the button will connect before power. So, it may be a good idea to avoid anything which involves button-press detection at boot, and anything which involves clicking the button while power is disconnected.
I’ve been resisting, but apparently not well enough. Please put me down for two.
The Miller, I only see myself on the list for one. Can you please add me for a second (two total) when you get a chance? Gotta have one to give my dad Thanks!
I like the idea of Muggle mode being single mode off and on (and more accessible than going into programming settings) and Muggle friendly mode groups and configurable ramping seems ideal if it’s going to be a gift.
The FW3A comes with a pocket clip. The D4 requires mod’ to get one on it. It’s my biggest gripe with the D4. Small EDC pocket lights require a clip and need to have it designed in, not added as a kludge add-on. It’s aggravating when a light can be so good yet miss something so simple.
The FW3A is far more cost effective at 1/2 the price of the D4.
I like the idea of Muggle mode being single mode off and on (and more accessible than going into programming settings) and Muggle friendly mode groups and configurable ramping seems ideal if it’s going to be a gift.
The problem with muggle mode for gifted lights is that they will revert back to the standard Narsil after a battery change.
The solution is easy. A few minutes to explain how the light works. Heck, Narsil isn’t difficult. If someone can’t grasp it they probably should hand the light to someone capable of understanding the extremely simple UI to keep them out of trouble.
That’s why there are junk lights in the hardware store. For folks like that.
Can somebody help me decide: This or the D4? I like the D4’s look, but are there any benefits the FW3A has compared to the D4?
There is a major disadvantage with the FW3A though: Its doesnt exsist… 8 months sience the OP and we only know the manufacturer.
The D4 is ready to buy and you have the xpl option with 4300lm. The cost however can be twice as high. The position of the switch is also a major aspect, tail vs side.
There is a major disadvantage with the FW3A though: Its doesnt exsist… 8 months sience the OP and we only know the manufacturer.
Not true, it does exist, at least in prototype form. I’ve seen pics on Facebook, shared by Neal Zhang. I tried to find them again but they were in a comment, not in their own post, and Facebook search really sucks. So I couldn’t, sorry. But it definitely exists.
Not true, it does exist, at least in prototype form. I’ve seen pics on Facebook, shared by Neal Zhang. I tried to find them again but they were in a comment, not in their own post, and Facebook search really sucks.
I think this might be the picture you’re referring to:
I’m hoping the prototype(s) will be sent soon so we can get moving again on development and testing.
The tail cap is where the switch is. How would it fit?
.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I suppose it would be possible to make an indent for a standard-sized magnetic ring, like the convoy s2+.
But I don’t think it will happen. You could always put a magnetic ring around the tailcap, and glue it in place.
A better way would be to make the whole button a magnet. And you epoxy a plate underneath it.
So you get a verry flat T-shape, upside down.
If you consider this while construction it is easy to chose a standard flat barrel / coin sized magnet while altering the size of the bezel arround the button.
CRX did this kind of mod on his titanium Tool AAA, before he added the lit switch.
EDIT:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52035
The first three pics:
1. original switch cover
2. plate + magnet + a top cover?
3. both side by side
As the backside bezel is screwed on, Lumintop could ad two switch covers, on metal, on magnetic. The user can choose.
And the optic wouldn’t alter.
I’m fairly certain that the design is carved in stone at this late date. Maybe it could happen, but I think it should have been brought up in the design phase and not now.
Understand, I have no inner knowledge, but in general after a design is finalized and is this far along, changes are doubtful. I also don’t think making this light larger (would adding a magnet make it so?), if that would be the result, is going to happen since one of the design parameters was/is it’s size, and lots of us bought it with that in mind. It’s essentially the size of the D4, with small variations, for $30.
Taken from post #1, the underline is mine:
The FW3A
Small elegant EDC triple flashlight designed by Fritz15
Runs on a single 18650 battery.
94.8 × 25.5 mm
But maybe I’m all wrong. It wouldn’t be the first time. But I do know that if it was made larger it wouldn’t do the job for me and I wouldn’t want one. I don’t need another light, but I want this one due to the stated design goals.
It was brought up,
- I read about a magnetic tail cap before.
And other stuff too
- I suggested a back and forward clipp.
- Slots for tritts
- lanyard hole
But you rarely hear something from the dev. team. (As I understand The Miller does more general communication)
Not one word what they think about it.
Also silence in the german forum.
I find that quite frustrating.
I dont think it would be much larger.
CRX solution has the same size, for a smaller lamp.
We have a 18650
As comparison a Skilhunt H03 Magnet is
16 × 2 mm with a 0,5mm thick cap on it
If we want it super sticky we can go with 3 or 4mm thicknes.
From the drawing, there is the switch cover missing, but I guess 1 to 2mm is needed.
If the lamp is 4-5mm longer and I can chose between a magnetic and non magnetic tail without altering the length and optic I would go with 5mm more.
Hi, if you look at the cross section of the light you see that it’s not easy to put a magnet under the switch. The actual switch would need to have to parts of you don’t want the magnet to be visible from the outside.
Regarding the slots for tritium vitals – most of the buyers would probably not use the slots, so I think it’s a better solution to see if one of the modding guys here can come up with a switch that has tritium slots milled in.
Also, the design is pretty much decided on right now. The clip is as it was designed but we’ll look into the possibility to make it mountable between head and body as well if it does not bring any significant design changes to the design.
Interested in one.
About muggle mode, there seem to be three ideas floating around:
To exit muggle mode, it’s currently “loosen+tighten the tube”.
Fortunately, a factory reset shouldn’t be needed. It might be possible since it’s a thing people seem to like, but the settings aren’t particularly botchable.
However, it occurs to me that loosening the tube will also physically disconnect the button… and when tightening the tube there may be no way to ensure that the button will connect before power. So, it may be a good idea to avoid anything which involves button-press detection at boot, and anything which involves clicking the button while power is disconnected.
The Miller, I only see myself on the list for one. Can you please add me for a second (two total) when you get a chance? Gotta have one to give my dad
Thanks!
Please put me on the list
Could you add me to buy one please?
Thanks!
Please add me to the list.
Please add me to the list.
Please add me to the list
I like the idea of Muggle mode being single mode off and on (and more accessible than going into programming settings) and Muggle friendly mode groups and configurable ramping seems ideal if it’s going to be a gift.
Please add me to the list!
Can somebody help me decide: This or the D4? I like the D4’s look, but are there any benefits the FW3A has compared to the D4?
It is even smaller and a bit more lightweight. The user interface is a bit more advanced too (newest Narsil).
link to djozz tests
The D4 is pretty conventional.
This light has a rather unique rear mounted e switch using an inner tube to make contact. So it’s pretty unusual. I like the uniqueness.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The FW3A comes with a pocket clip. The D4 requires mod’ to get one on it. It’s my biggest gripe with the D4. Small EDC pocket lights require a clip and need to have it designed in, not added as a kludge add-on. It’s aggravating when a light can be so good yet miss something so simple.
The FW3A is far more cost effective at 1/2 the price of the D4.
Why not get the D4 now and the FW3A later?
please put me on the list, I couldn’t resist…..
(for 2 lights, plz!)
The problem with muggle mode for gifted lights is that they will revert back to the standard Narsil after a battery change.
The solution is easy. A few minutes to explain how the light works. Heck, Narsil isn’t difficult. If someone can’t grasp it they probably should hand the light to someone capable of understanding the extremely simple UI to keep them out of trouble.
That’s why there are junk lights in the hardware store. For folks like that.
Do as me, buy both
I guess we Are talking about Emisar d4?
There is a major disadvantage with the FW3A though: Its doesnt exsist… 8 months sience the OP and we only know the manufacturer.
The D4 is ready to buy and you have the xpl option with 4300lm. The cost however can be twice as high. The position of the switch is also a major aspect, tail vs side.
4x sbt90.2, actively cooled
-Actively cooled 4x XHP50.2
-Skyray King 4x XPL HI, C8 reflectors
-XHP70.2 Maglite 2D
-Skyray King 7x XML2, 8x 18650
Please add me to the list for one, MillerMeister!
Thanks!
There will always be more darkness than I have lights.
Not true, it does exist, at least in prototype form. I’ve seen pics on Facebook, shared by Neal Zhang. I tried to find them again but they were in a comment, not in their own post, and Facebook search really sucks. So I couldn’t, sorry. But it definitely exists.
It may not be available for sale yet, but it does at least exist… (edit: oops, emarkd already posted about it)
I think this might be the picture you’re referring to:
I’m hoping the prototype(s) will be sent soon so we can get moving again on development and testing.
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