I don’t recommend using throwy lights as headlamps. It has a tendency to cause tunnel vision.
True, and good recommendation, but I have a need for a thrower headlamp and have a few flooders so was just wondering if this might work. In the past I’ve used aspheric headlamps with decent results, but thought this might be better. Although, a dd flashlight pressed up against your skull would probably get a little warm on the scalp 
D1s in black arrived. Anno reminds me of thorfire C8 which I do like. Excellent throw with wide hot spot and nice spill. UI is excellent! Nice grippy feel to it. Showed it to an old timer and he really liked it. Said he would wear his hammer holster for carry. Very satisfied!! I grabbed a loose XTAR 2900 bat and it’s happy with it. Batt check showed 4.0 after some turbo use. Money well spent.
Throw right on spec. With a fully charged VTC5A I got 129245cd @ 30sec measured from 3.194 meters. 132336cd at 0 sec. Tint is very pleasant warmish and rosy. Mine is the 5D version.
@TK
from the OP
Are the petals a typo? I don’t see them on the beamshoots.
Nice to see the 5D variant has the rated candelas and a good tint.
If you own a D1, the “petals” are vaguely visible at closer range on a white wall, but they don’t interfere with actual use.
Anyone have a BLF D80 handy to compare with the D1 or D1s? Besides the e-switch, wondering how the beam patterns, reflectors, and feel in the hand might be different or similar.
Not a typo. They’re just dim, as described. These things are usually difficult to see in beam shots or during real-world use. It’s easiest to see when shining at a white wall, especially while rotating the light along its Z axis to spin the petals around the hotspot.
Virtually all flashlights have some degree of flower-petal shape if they have a square emitter in a round smooth reflector, but the degree varies quite a bit. It’s most noticeable when the square is relatively large compared to the reflector… and can be decreased by using a larger reflector, a smaller emitter, or by moving the reflector out of focus.
The D1’s petals are a sign that it’s well-focused, and the faint-ness of the petals suggest its proportions are well-balanced. The D1S seems to have some petals too, but they’re smaller due to the more dramatic ratio of reflector-to-emitter size, and they’re pretty much hidden in the corona. Also, I’ve had a difficult time getting the focus perfect on my D1S, so the petals are outweighed by the slight defocusing. I’ll fix that after I take it apart for reflashing, which will probably happen after I’ve got the firmware ready for production.
Thank you for the explanation!
I searched for petals on my lamps, it turned out I have only TIR or orange peel lamps. No smooth reflectors in da house.
With the exception, Joe, of the Q8, right? 
I was curious about the D1S runtime, so I’ve been playing around with zak’s ceiling bounce app in my NIST-certified integrating bedroom closet. Even set to a very high thermal limit, the D1S throttles down pretty hard after about 5-7 minutes and takes more than 20 minutes longer to settle at a stable output level. With a lower limit, or a higher drain cell like the VTC6 (“d1s test”), the “hump” is even more pronounced. I will repeat the tests with a proper shoebox setup soon, but I was surprised the D1S couldn’t handle a bit more since I almost exclusively use it outside where it’s cool enough the thermal throttling never engages.
In contrast, the D1 also drops down, but manages to stabilize fairly quickly.
For reference, Convoy C8 and Manker U21.
Guess I’ll have to build a copper helping hand for my D1S….
(if/when I see it, that is. 25 days and counting)
Can someone who has both a D1S and a decent pair of calipers give me an idea of the overall diameter of the head? I’ll see if I can get a chunk of Tellurium copper to beat my D1S home…
My cheap digital calipers are far from “decent,” but here’s what I got:
Bezel is 50.09mm diameter.
Switch area is 35.97mm diameter.
Bezel to start of taper is 35.47mm.
Bezel to end of taper is 41.14mm.
Bezel to end of head is 64.23mm.
Hope this helps! 
I always get ahead of myself… in the beginning of this thread the 35mm diameter is quoted… so I ordered a piece of TeCu 38.2mm in diameter by 76.3mm in length. Tonight was the last night of a nice discount, so I hurried.
It’ll be all right though, I want to start the copper just above where the emitter shelf is so I can cut threads and inset the new emitter shelf.
Thanks for those numbers… know any mojo to get my D1S to arrive?
Ah, I see what I did…. I got the 35mm bezel diameter of the D1… oh well, I’ll make it work, just need the diameter where the emitter shelf is and that should be around 36mm at best guess, 38.2 will have to do.
And no, I’m not planning on using the entire 3” on this light, I have some other things needing this copper.
I think it involves chanting “Emisar,” in a darkened room with a few lights running Andúril’s ‘Lightning Storm’ mode. :partying_face:
No problem, just order a D1 too. Problem solved!
Yeah, we know!
Oh, I’ve got a D1, and a D4 (or two) and the grey D1S should be here someday. And then I’ll probably make it look something like this, albeit a bit less disjointed…
DB Custom
yup, but I assume the reason for the Q8 petals are the four LEDs.