The description only says: āThe PCB use 2*MOS protection board, maximum power voltage is 4.2V, the minimum voltage of 2.5Vā
I have tested this (freshly charged) protected NCR18650B on Astrolux S1 (ie. BLF A6) and S2 (ie. BLF X6v2), they do not trip even when set to Turbo mode.
However, I just got the Astrolux S41S quad-Nichia, and when freshly charged, the said battery trips (turns on and immediately turn off) on Turbo and on High-2 modes.
Any idea what are the parameters/characteristics of the ā2*MOS protection boardā?
My INR18650-30Qs are the unmodded flat-tops. Maybe Iāll use the unprotected LG HG2s thenā¦
Thanks for the response!
How many amps is the highest current draw of the stock BLF Q8 (I believe thatās being shipped is the newest revision)?
I donāt recognize those particular cells. Just saying ā2 MOS protection boardā isnāt enough information. I know the higher rated boards (8A to 12A) tend to use 3 mosfets, but without specific details we canāt say for sure what the max current is.
It says output is 600mA, but that might be a typo. If it said 6,000mA then that would be 6 amps and is about the rating I would expect.
From some quick searching I see that the S1 light can draw 4.5A on unprotected cells and maybe 3.5 using protected.
The S41 can draw 9 amps with an unprotected cell. I canāt find any data about the amp draw on High 2. I wish I could so we would get a closer idea of this batteries limit. I would guess that High 2 is maybe 5 to 6 amps.
So we know it can deliver at least 3.5 amps, but not 6 amps.
The Q8 on 4 cells can draw 16 amps with unprotected cells. So maybe 13A to 14A using protected cells. That is 3.5A per cell. You might be okay using those protected cells on the Q8.
That seems to depend on the way the protection circuit is built. The protected cells d_t_a linked to obviously cuts all power if the amp draw exceeds the added protection circuits limit.
Then there are other circuits that will limit output instead of turn off. On my L6 it will draw 17A to 18A with unprotected cells, but my KeepPower protected cells will simply limit the amp draw to about 10A instead of shutting off all power.
So it really depends on the added circuits.
To answer your question, letās say you had protected cells that only had a 2A limit then it cuts power. Four of those in the Q8 would limit the total amp draw to 8 amps. You would still be able to use the light at lower levels, but once you ramp it up to about 3000 lumen the lamp will cut off. So itās usable, but annoying.
One thing I will say is that these protection circuits always increase the internal resistance and on a fet driver they will always pull less amperage than the same cell without the protection circuit. Assuming the amp draw does not exceed the limit of the protection circuit.
Oh yeah, if I were running protected cells in a Q8, Iād make sure and get some that are tested to do at least 5A. That should be fine for a stock light.
Are you referring to the batteries d_t_a linked to?
They do not appear to be the same. Different button top size, different button top ring, different sticker on side. Iām pretty sure the protection circuits where added by two different companies. Most likely different circuitry added.
I killed a cell doing this runtime last night, so everyone can enjoy my fuck-up. This is with GAs and thermal management disabled because I normally use it outside where itās too cold to matter. Letās just say it got rather hot.
Are you saying heat killed the battery Bob? I have done lots of testing with run time tests with thermal management switched of with 30Qās in the Q8, yes the light does get extremely hot but Iām yet to kill a battery or damage any other components in the light.
I know, just posted an example of NCR18650Bās that works in my Q8 without problems. A little less light than 30Qs, but longer runtime.
I wonder what happened in the second Q8ā¦. while problems with switch LEDs were happening already (though I got Q8 from the second batch, after September production stop), the delay in mode switch is pretty strange.
Iām not sure what happened, but one of the cells was dead after the test (reading 0.8V right now and dropping). They are new flat top GAs, but I havenāt had any issues with uneven drain. The light did get rather hot.
I had some liitokalas failing sone moths ago , out of the blue . They just turned 0.1V after one or two days after they were charged . One of them was inside a light (not a parasitic drain issue) , the other not . Still a mystery what happenedā¦
The flat top 30Qās that I had worked in my 2 Q8ās even before I soldered some 14 gauge wire (bent into a small circle) to the top of them. The only reason I added the wires was that I was concerned that the wrapping would be ripped off the top of the batteries when the body was screwed down. Solder blobs work just as well but I like the look of the wires so thatās what I always add to the flat topās to raise them.
I made a diffuser out of a sauce bottle. After you cut the top off is is a push fit. Big W and Spotlight carry these in Australia. I also put a small convex blind spot
mirror in the bottom to block light from going straight out the end, and reflect it downwards and outwards.
"We call it ābattery drain.ā Prior to an investigation, we always check our batteries to make sure theyāre fully charged. Sometimes though, weāll discover that our new batteries become instantly drained the minute we walk into a haunted establishment.
Many enthusiasts feel this is a ghostās way of powering up. They will drain the batteries, and sometimes even the energy of the investigators themselves, in order to communicate or manifest. After living in a haunted house for 13 years, I can tell you that there is some validity to this theory."
Hhmm. Might have triggered a safety cutoff. Think I heard/read even unprotected cells have some built-in safety circuitry. You might be able to "wake it up" by applying some juice to it - cheaper chargers can do it as well. Same way we can wake up a dead protected cell when the low voltage of the PC trips.
:+1: