Unfortunately they do not solve the spectral errors of our luxmeters , but they give a better absolute output reference than a couple of ANSI-rated flashlights.
Im planning buy some of this leds (when available) and build a single and a triple.
Anyone know whats the best way to proceded in DD with this led?
I know that the best is to stay around 3-3,75 Amps. Max 4. So… 10 to 12 amps in triple.
So, whats the best configuration for stay in this margen at 10-11-12 amps?
For wire i think that 22awg its the way (not 20awg)
For driver spring i think that steel (default convoy) without bypass.
For tailcap spring i think that steel (default convoy) without bypass.
And finally for the cell ncr18650ga? 30q will be too much? vtc6?
I built a triple with these awhile back and just did it like any other triple. I think I used 22awg. I have no issues with it over driving the LED’s since the Vf on them is pretty high.
Yeah, I forgot what the messured amps were but they were not anything to worry about, around 10 amps IIRC. I generally use GA’s in my personal lights but I generally test with 30Q. Either way it should not be an issue with a triple. Even if they are overdriven some it will not hurt then and it will quickly drop as the battery drains.
First of all thanks for your help. You not mentioned but i supose that the 10 amps (aprox) is with bypasess springs right? I think i will go with 22awg and phosphor bronze springs for driver and for the tail. And lets see whats the measurements are. Probably stay in 8-9 amps and thats will be perfect because from 9 to 12 ( in this led) its not much gain in lumens but more heat.
I learned early on that you can’t even see the difference between minor changes and even some major changes with the human eye. So why stress out over it.
For example going from 2.5A to full 6A turbo on an XP-L is hardly noticeable in the real world unless you see it side by side.
I would just build it with whatever fits and works in the host the best and then enjoy the results.
You won’t kill the LED’s regardless in a triple setup with a good thermal path which is the most important thing.
There’s a positive and negative side to the high CRI Oslon Squares in that shop: the negative is that they show a second generation led in the picture but the leds actually on sale are in fact first generation (with clearly lower old-school performance), the positive is that the first gen. Squares have way better tints than the second and third generation (green :confounded: ).