Nichia 219B 4500k D220 9080 CRI Emitter output test by Texas_Ace; Amazing tint and CRI! Output is what you would expect.

Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bought at pargos-shop.

Hope I can try some in a near future.

Cheers ^:)

Got a link to a specific item? I just seen 1400 listing of random electrical components.

First of all thanks for your help. You not mentioned but i supose that the 10 amps (aprox) is with bypasess springs right? I think i will go with 22awg and phosphor bronze springs for driver and for the tail. And lets see whats the measurements are. Probably stay in 8-9 amps and thats will be perfect because from 9 to 12 ( in this led) its not much gain in lumens but more heat.

What do you think?

I think that it is not worth overthinking it.

I learned early on that you can’t even see the difference between minor changes and even some major changes with the human eye. So why stress out over it.

For example going from 2.5A to full 6A turbo on an XP-L is hardly noticeable in the real world unless you see it side by side.

I would just build it with whatever fits and works in the host the best and then enjoy the results.

You won’t kill the LED’s regardless in a triple setup with a good thermal path which is the most important thing.

You are right, the thermal pach should be ok (convoy c8)

Thanks for your help.

There’s a positive and negative side to the high CRI Oslon Squares in that shop: the negative is that they show a second generation led in the picture but the leds actually on sale are in fact first generation (with clearly lower old-school performance), the positive is that the first gen. Squares have way better tints than the second and third generation (green :confounded: ).

Mmmkay, some pre-made custom search links from pargos-shop:

There are many high-CRI offerings. I also wonder about the Golden DRAGON series, funny packaging!

Cheers ^:)

What kind of output do they do compared to say a 219b?

Search Ebay for “Oslon CRI 96” and you’ll find them.
They also have CRI 95
Shipping to USA is probably like $12.50 though…

I can confirm the tints are lovely.
I gues they’re better than R9050 too.
The 5730 0.5Watt “E5” in CRI95 are very nice too, by the way.

Not much of a problem for me with output, djozz. I was probably going to use them for some low current flashlight mod or small home lighting project, DIY stuff just for the sake of beautiful light.

I was already noticing v1.3 and v1.0 led versions the other day while inspecting the LCW CQAR.CC and GW CSSRM1.BM datasheets a few days ago.

Their COB emitters look really good for home/business lighting.

Cheers :-)

they came from here, what you see is what is left
https://www.virence.com/shop

last I heard,

I hope the Volcano does no harm

I hope to learn if there is an Osram option that is as good as the unobtanium sw45 9080

image courtesy of maukka

I have just one sw45, thanks to a generous member… it is in my pocket as EDC since it arrived… makes my hand look nice and pink, though the beamshot shows an unusual amount of violet in a photo, and Im not sure what to make of it, I really like using the LED, it is very “white” in the evening, not too yellow during the day.

(tint is relative to white balance) in this iPhone photo the auto white balance seems to have decided the 4500k N219b Worm is the white balance reference:

Hey Jon,
someone just posted a pic of a black tool AAA they got with a 219C

I have one on the slow boat to me also. will see.

thanks for the link
I think the 219b are going the way of the DoDo Bird

I find the 219c less desirable in terms of being more yellow/green than the 219b, but, the 219c is brighter, and Imo Nichia is playing catchup with Cree(n)…. maybe Green Lumens are brighter than Red Lumens?;-)…

This photo of yours, jon_slider, clearly shows how a 219B 4K Ra9080 is redder than a 219B “worm” (4K Ra9050?) and how a 219B 4.5K Ra9080 is both redder and bluer. With auto white balance your device adjusts the RGB level information of the picture to more or less “match” that of the reference, this makes it useless or hard material to work with when comparing against photographs with a standard colour balance like “daylight”. The pictures we see in our information technology equipment are just too limited in their colour space compared to the amazing capabilities of the human eye, brain and mind.

It is for this reason that I nearly always shot with daylight white balance, with some sort of note when not. Example:

The usual daylight white balance temperature is probably somewhere between 5500K and 6500K across most if not all devices. This is the reason the above picture looks quite warm, though the actual pleasantness of the above light is much higher than what it may seem (CRI85+ emitter, too).

Cheers :-)

Neal recently found some nice xhp35 HI 80 CRI D4 bin 4500k emitters. I talked him into getting some samples and sending them to me to test (and after the test, who knows where they might end up….lol). I am looking forward to these, I think they would have some real potential indeed.

I might put one in the GT and I really want to make a triple XHP35 EDC triple, why? I need it in my life.

i think i got one from KD:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026091.Cree-XHP35-HI-D2-3D-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
hmm… slightly cooler tint…
[edit]
Never mind, less exiting bin too…
[/edit]

Will he sell some?

I also looked up other xhp35 options and this is the best I could find in the HI model (well, unless someone just prefers a different tint that is) also the best Cree lists in the datasheets.

If it tests well and there is demand I don’t think people would have to twist his arm very hard to get him to sell them.

someone bought 8Q and 8T tints, mentioned here.


no idea what they look like next to an N219b…

what would maukka do?

Mine look like 5v or 5w or 6v or 6w.

Still haven’t tried the 3500K ones though.
I have 7 of them, and i have a DQG 3rd 26650…
The DQG is glued though… :frowning:

[EDIT]
It seems to be 6U and 6Q according to the Ebay listings.
[/EDIT]