Your results do not match those of zak.wilson.
He measured an input current of 1.1A on the Turbo1 mode when using a 6V LED. You measured around 0.25A.
On Turbo2 he measured the actual runtime instead (55-60min). This should equate to around 2.8-3A.
His results make more sense to me because they basically show double the runtime compared to the 12V LED.
I wonder why yours are different. The one thing I notice is that your cables are very long. Inside the light they are only 1-2cm.
I also find it quite funny that you want to replace the sophisticated Armytek driver with a cheap & simple Kaidomain driver :). But efficiency is important…
This topic is interesting to me because I recently bought this Wizard to do the same mod that Zak did.
The problem with my driver is it showed erratic output by the end of the test. In 6V mode only in one brief moment it showed “correct” result (2,41A in turbo 2). Then it’s more like a lower random output before it finally stopped working.
I will test again using different driver. I had to use long wires, will try to cut it down as much as possible later
Yup. But for Wizard you have to be extra pppatient. I spent half a day during weekend just to get the bezel open without damaging anything. Faster route is to break the glass. The glass is there to protect the softer TIR optics (from scratch and dirt). Most optics available (at very cheap price) in Ebay/AE are too thick and don’t allow you to use the OEM glass anyway.
Next time I’ll just break the glass. It’s faster and make the headlamp more resilient for many uses. When the glass break, water will instantly seep in. PMMA TIR is softer but more resistant to breakage, and when the lens damaged, just replace it.
Note: without the glass, future bezel removal will be a lot easier too
I have to agree. Removing the bezel is quite difficult. I applied some leverage with long scredrivers and also tried pulling up with a bent screw driver, but it only moved maybe 0.25mm.
I managed to open mine today with minimal scratches and no cracked lens. It was easier than expected. I just needed to overcome my fears and apply enough leverage with a screw driver under the ring.
It’s only possible with OEM bezel. I did many bezel removal successfully with no cracked lens nor damaged. But when I ordered the black bezel version. For strange reasons, AT uses two O-rings, sandwiching the glass lens. That makes no room for any tools. Normal Wizard or Tiara have 1,5mm space for pry tools to work.
I think newer Wizard Pro uses two o-rings due to some cracked lens reports.
Well I just finished modding mine with a Nichia 144A and everything worked nicely. Hardly any scratches and no cracked lens. My light is from this fall, not very old. It only has a single o-ring.
Very, very good regulation! It’s very flat and steps down a the end to give you enough time to change the battery.
The prime runs a few minutes less before stepping down. The XHP-35 probably has a little bit higher Vf compared to the XHP-50 because of the smaller dies.
If you look closely the flashlights didn’t shutting down after the last step down. They continued to run in firefly mode for much longer, (didn’t want to wait) I predict, for another hour or so. Each tests started with 4,19V and ended at 2,85ish V
With Sony VTC the Turbo 2 will have longer flat runtime in Turbo 2. I prefer the 6V mod to get flatter Turbo 2 at much longer (900ish lumens).
Being an R9080 the 4xE21A is dimmer than XHP50. But lower forward voltage makes for longer regulated and total runtime. At max current the difference was almost 0,5V. I adjusted the correction factor for lumen output because I forgot I moved the input hole to the side of my integrating box.
As you can see from above. In lower current those E21As are more efficient but not so at higher current. In FF modes, the white paint also boost output. I didn’t believe my numbers too. So I opened a brand new Wizard Pro and rechecked it, yes it is. Unless I got two Wizard Pro with lower than average FF modes, then it is what it is.
Thanks for all the testing!
The output is rather low, but that way to be expected. The normal Wizard with cw XHP50 does 1800otf Lumens in T2 and 900 in T1 acccording to Armytek (yours seems to be a bit dim, even if ww).
The WW XHP50 Wizard Pro doesn’t actually achieve the OTF lumens Armytek claims. Zak reported it in his review last year, and my ceilingbounce shoebox results also agree with Clemence’s results to within the margin of error.