I was actually thinking about that, don’t you have a long piece of copper to stick the LED down into your sphere? That could actually be a bottleneck with this much power. Everything says your heatsink should be better then mine.
I actually tried to use a copper heatsink when I first built my setup, I broke 3 or 4 drill bits trying to tap it for the screws and finally gave up and just went with the best all aluminum heat sink I had. I knew it was a downgrade but at least it worked.
So I am not real surprised that this overloaded it, it was only designed to handle a 95W CPU afterall.
Köf3’s results are exactly what I would expect with a better heatsink on the high end.
Hmmm, if I could get my hands on a Brass slug, it is possible I could solder that onto the copper heatsink and then drill and tap the slug…. The question is where could I get a slug for less then the cost of just buying something better for the job.
I posted the results so far in the GT thread and in my Giggles review thread. All results are domed so far. I am debating if I want to slice the dome or not, I really like the tint as it is now and it is a pricey LED lol.
I will mot likely slice the dome though and see what it does after I see the results of the latest focusing.
Ideal is a relative term. A better CPU heat sink would do the trick nicely, something without heat pipes and good enough for at least 150W, 200W would be better. The problem is by that point you are usually dealing with heat pipes and that makes drilling and tapping the mounting holes almost impossible.
As a compromise the copper core stock intel heat sinks would work fairly well but man, they are hard to drill and tap. I already tried to do that to one I had.
Is it a full CPU cooler setup with a fan? How about putting the heatsink in a pan of ice cold water? Be careful what with the amps and water not mixing though voltage is low enough. Alternately inverted compressed air can?
This is a good idea, but Matt is not very knowledgeable in the subject. No offense to him. A simple copper water block, a high flow pump using 3/8” lines and a bucket of water should easily handle the heat. The question though is whether you just want to keep the emitter cool or to better simulate real world conditions of a flashlight heating up?
I like to simulate real world conditions to some extent, which is why I was never that worried about getting the biggest heatsink around. Even this test is not something I am particularly bothered about. The cold start tests show what it can do on a cold start but the hot tests are more what can be expected in the real world.
Yeah, using a giant CPU heatsink or AIO cooler should be able to get you those 10k lumens continuously
Definitely not a “normal” flashlight use case though.