[MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 to 4x Nichia E21A

I’m guessing you opened yours with your bent screwdriver?

Yup. But for Wizard you have to be extra pppatient. I spent half a day during weekend just to get the bezel open without damaging anything. Faster route is to break the glass. The glass is there to protect the softer TIR optics (from scratch and dirt). Most optics available (at very cheap price) in Ebay/AE are too thick and don’t allow you to use the OEM glass anyway.
Next time I’ll just break the glass. It’s faster and make the headlamp more resilient for many uses. When the glass break, water will instantly seep in. PMMA TIR is softer but more resistant to breakage, and when the lens damaged, just replace it.
Note: without the glass, future bezel removal will be a lot easier too

I have to agree. Removing the bezel is quite difficult. I applied some leverage with long scredrivers and also tried pulling up with a bent screw driver, but it only moved maybe 0.25mm.

I managed to open mine today with minimal scratches and no cracked lens. It was easier than expected. I just needed to overcome my fears and apply enough leverage with a screw driver under the ring.

It’s only possible with OEM bezel. I did many bezel removal successfully with no cracked lens nor damaged. But when I ordered the black bezel version. For strange reasons, AT uses two O-rings, sandwiching the glass lens. That makes no room for any tools. Normal Wizard or Tiara have 1,5mm space for pry tools to work.
I think newer Wizard Pro uses two o-rings due to some cracked lens reports.

Well I just finished modding mine with a Nichia 144A and everything worked nicely. Hardly any scratches and no cracked lens. My light is from this fall, not very old. It only has a single o-ring.

Runtime test added:

- Clemence

Very, very good regulation! It’s very flat and steps down a the end to give you enough time to change the battery.
The prime runs a few minutes less before stepping down. The XHP-35 probably has a little bit higher Vf compared to the XHP-50 because of the smaller dies.

If you look closely the flashlights didn’t shutting down after the last step down. They continued to run in firefly mode for much longer, (didn’t want to wait) I predict, for another hour or so. Each tests started with 4,19V and ended at 2,85ish V
With Sony VTC the Turbo 2 will have longer flat runtime in Turbo 2. I prefer the 6V mod to get flatter Turbo 2 at much longer (900ish lumens).

- Clemence

UPDATE 180204:

Finally, after tedious drilling to avoid short circuit the ultra thin dielectric.






And to those doubting the white paint….

EDIT: based on Maukka’s test the Wizard must be using 70 CRI LED

- Clemence

Wow, I love it. I’m perfectly happy with my XM-L2 wizzard, but your mod wants me to buy the XHP50 version just for this modification

The difference seems way too big…
My only interest now is the throw.

I’ll post a video for you later

- Clemence

Here’s the test result:

Being an R9080 the 4xE21A is dimmer than XHP50. But lower forward voltage makes for longer regulated and total runtime. At max current the difference was almost 0,5V. I adjusted the correction factor for lumen output because I forgot I moved the input hole to the side of my integrating box.

Armytek Wizard Pro WW
T1: 755 lumens
T2: 1394 lumens
M1: 26 lumens
M2: 138 lumens
M3: 333 lumens
FF1: 0,05 lumens
FF2: 0,36 lumens
FF3: 2,56 lumens

Armytek Wizard Pro + VR16SP4 (4 x E21A R9080)
T1: 591 lumens
T2: 1104 lumens
M1: 43 lumens
M2: 116 lumens
M3: 266 lumens
FF1: 0,095 lumens
FF2: 2,47 lumens
FF3: 4,4 lumens

As you can see from above. In lower current those E21As are more efficient but not so at higher current. In FF modes, the white paint also boost output. I didn’t believe my numbers too. So I opened a brand new Wizard Pro and rechecked it, yes it is. Unless I got two Wizard Pro with lower than average FF modes, then it is what it is.

- Clemence

Thanks for all the testing!
The output is rather low, but that way to be expected. The normal Wizard with cw XHP50 does 1800otf Lumens in T2 and 900 in T1 acccording to Armytek (yours seems to be a bit dim, even if ww).

The WW XHP50 Wizard Pro doesn’t actually achieve the OTF lumens Armytek claims. Zak reported it in his review last year, and my ceilingbounce shoebox results also agree with Clemence’s results to within the margin of error.

The drop in lumens is well justified and totally worth it for such a beautiful clean beam with 9080 LEDs vs the stock 70 CRI OEM.
Well done Clemence!

As promised:

- Clemence

Thanks! I believed you before ;).
Do you have a lux meter? My interest is in the higher modes, 1-4h.
If you don’t have one, you could also do a video outside against a wall from a few meters distance.

I’ll do it later this week. I also forgot to connect the LED switch wire. You can see it in my video, the button didn’t lit up, doh! :person_facepalming:
Yes I have a lux meter (TASI-632A), that’s how I did the measurement. The cd must be much lower since the quadtrix E21A has very broad beam, almost as wide as the spill. This is perfect for any close works and around trekking but not for runners like you.

EDIT:
I used Djozz standardized flashlight he sent me. My test result also not too far off those of Maukka’s and Zak’s. I don’t know how AT test their flaslights. IMHO it’s almost impossible to get 1800 OTF lumens using current driver and optic set. The bezel alone eats up ~5% off the output, AR coated glass ~2, TIR optic ~20.

- Clemence