XHP50.2 J4 4000k output test by Texas_Ace - Really impressive improvement from the last gen

It is a good middle ground between the XHP35 and XHP70 that is for sure.

Thanks for putting in the effort.

3550lm at 4.75A will make a nice cheap(ish) mod for the GT :slight_smile:

Cheers David

Actually, this test was done in 6v configuration so 4.75A in 12v would be near peak output at about 5000 lumens!

Hmmmm must be time for an afternoon nap for me to miss that :person_facepalming:

Cheers David

Thanks for the testing mate! Its good to see the output double when pushed same as the XHP70.2.

Only at high currents.
When you use the most powerful 17mm boost driver out there (Schoki’s driver) it’s 4200 vs. 5400 lm.

lol, it is easy to miss. I am interested to see what the 50 looks like in the GT myself.

Where to buy a reliable/genuine XHP70,2?

I think KD also sells some and you can find them on sites like mouser as well.

When the XHP50.2 J4-5A 4000K finally arrives, should be any day now, and the resisters arrive, only ordered today, problem one will be it is on a 20mm star so some fancy wiring to be done, hopefully I can do the same as my Courui D01

problem two, it is on a 1.6mm board and the GT’s board is 2mm, maybe use a rubber spacer at the bezel??

Cheers David,
. . . . . . who has just had his two solder stations burn out within a week of each other :disappointed:

I thought about trying something like that but after my own D01 experience, that is something I prefer not repeat lol. I ended up having to use a mill to shave down the solder joints for the D01 to get the reflector properly positioned.

Thanks for the test. I am more confident now for my quad xhp50.2 and its output. Pulling 40 amps means my estimate for >18.000 lumens was right.

At how many amps you would say it will burn? 13?

By 13A you would be loosing lumens but the XHP series is pretty tough, they generally don’t burn until you drive them REALLY hard if you have a good thermal path.

10A is about the most I would try to run them at, personally I think around 8A is a good number before the diminishing returns.

For me this is the optimal configuration. I would drive it at around 12V and 4.5A. A shaved XHP50.2 K2 would be similar to the Luminus CFT-90, but with the stock U.I. and much, much cheaper.

These second generation XHP LEDs are very power-dense, but I don’t think you will get close to an effective luminance of 200cd/mm^2 in a reflector light with the shaved XHP50.2. The actual die luminance will be less than one would think just considering the total output and the die area because there is light coming from the cross and phosphor to the sides of the die, as I showed with the XPG3. Also, in a reflector light, focused at the center, the beam center lux results from an average of the luminance from the die and cross, so the effective luminance will be less, i.e. If you look into the reflector it will be filled with reflections from the bright die but some area will be filled with reflections from the less bright cross.

Yes I realize they aren’t perfectly suited. But take a look at Texas_ace’s masurements with the shaved XHP70.2. With these we can determine the throw with the XHP50.2. It should be similar to the XHP-35 HI, but with a 30% larger hotspot (8mm^2 vs 6mm^2) and 50% more lumens.

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This is what I was wondering about. Is it possible the the 50.2 could do 5000 lumen and 800+K Lux? I think that I remember reading somewhere that the 50.2 runs a liitle cooler than the 70.2. If this is true, the 50.2 might be a great option in the GT.

It looks like it might be time to learn how to do what you guys seem to do so easily. Can you guys recommend the gear I will need to get started? I would rather get the right/best stuff the first time.

It sure would be nice to have TA or one of you other guys just down the street!

Lucky for you what you need is not a lot. The basic tools of the trade are :

soldering station with temperature control
hot air reflow station (mine is a combo unit with the soldering iron)
Reasonably good DMM
magnifying goggles / heatgear, this makes it way easier to see what you are doing
Fine tweezers

The rest are the mics parts like wires, switches, springs and the like that you will figure out over time.

The soldering station hakko makes some good stuff, I use a china knock-off with good results until a few days ago when the heating element in the iron died. I have a replacement ordered now. Still I got over 1.5 years out of it for $40, well worth the investment.

Thanks TA. Looks like I have some shopping to do. :slight_smile: