I think KD also sells some and you can find them on sites like mouser as well.
When the XHP50.2 J4-5A 4000K finally arrives, should be any day now, and the resisters arrive, only ordered today, problem one will be it is on a 20mm star so some fancy wiring to be done, hopefully I can do the same as my Courui D01
problem two, it is on a 1.6mm board and the GT’s board is 2mm, maybe use a rubber spacer at the bezel??
Cheers David,
. . . . . . who has just had his two solder stations burn out within a week of each other :disappointed:
I thought about trying something like that but after my own D01 experience, that is something I prefer not repeat lol. I ended up having to use a mill to shave down the solder joints for the D01 to get the reflector properly positioned.
Thanks for the test. I am more confident now for my quad xhp50.2 and its output. Pulling 40 amps means my estimate for >18.000 lumens was right.
At how many amps you would say it will burn? 13?
By 13A you would be loosing lumens but the XHP series is pretty tough, they generally don’t burn until you drive them REALLY hard if you have a good thermal path.
10A is about the most I would try to run them at, personally I think around 8A is a good number before the diminishing returns.
For me this is the optimal configuration. I would drive it at around 12V and 4.5A. A shaved XHP50.2 K2 would be similar to the Luminus CFT-90, but with the stock U.I. and much, much cheaper.
These second generation XHP LEDs are very power-dense, but I don’t think you will get close to an effective luminance of 200cd/mm^2 in a reflector light with the shaved XHP50.2. The actual die luminance will be less than one would think just considering the total output and the die area because there is light coming from the cross and phosphor to the sides of the die, as I showed with the XPG3. Also, in a reflector light, focused at the center, the beam center lux results from an average of the luminance from the die and cross, so the effective luminance will be less, i.e. If you look into the reflector it will be filled with reflections from the bright die but some area will be filled with reflections from the less bright cross.
Yes I realize they aren’t perfectly suited. But take a look at Texas_ace’s masurements with the shaved XHP70.2. With these we can determine the throw with the XHP50.2. It should be similar to the XHP-35 HI, but with a 30% larger hotspot (8mm^2 vs 6mm^2) and 50% more lumens.
[quote=The_Driver]
[quote=EasyB]
[quote=The_Driver]
[quote=Texas_Ace]
[quote=pommie]
This is what I was wondering about. Is it possible the the 50.2 could do 5000 lumen and 800+K Lux? I think that I remember reading somewhere that the 50.2 runs a liitle cooler than the 70.2. If this is true, the 50.2 might be a great option in the GT.
It looks like it might be time to learn how to do what you guys seem to do so easily. Can you guys recommend the gear I will need to get started? I would rather get the right/best stuff the first time.
It sure would be nice to have TA or one of you other guys just down the street!
Lucky for you what you need is not a lot. The basic tools of the trade are :
soldering station with temperature control
hot air reflow station (mine is a combo unit with the soldering iron)
Reasonably good DMM
magnifying goggles / heatgear, this makes it way easier to see what you are doing
Fine tweezers
The rest are the mics parts like wires, switches, springs and the like that you will figure out over time.
The soldering station hakko makes some good stuff, I use a china knock-off with good results until a few days ago when the heating element in the iron died. I have a replacement ordered now. Still I got over 1.5 years out of it for $40, well worth the investment.
Thanks TA. Looks like I have some shopping to do. 
Nice testing work once again TA! 
[quote=WaylonJennings]
[quote=The_Driver]
[quote=EasyB]
[quote=The_Driver]
[quote=Texas_Ace]
The XHP50.2 will only run cooler in a direct drive setup because it has a slightly higher Vf which results in less current.
In a regulated setup the XHP70.2 will run cooler because it is more efficient (more Lumens and a lower Vf).
Has anyone tried the sliced 50.2 in the GT yet?
Not that I know of, it is hard to find an mcpcb for it.
Thank you for this test.
I’m a newbie and i’m wondering; why is there such a big difference to the manufacturer data sheet values?
Datasheet says on Page 7:
5,65V @ 1750mA (Tj=85°C)
Your test:
5,67V @ 0,75mA
Where does the difference come from?
There is a range on all the values from Cree, generally they are around 7% but it also varies with other factors as well such as tint, CRI, bin ect. Higher CRI LED’s for example generally have lower Vf.
Each reel will have a different Vf, sometimes the changes are minor, others they are very noticeable.
I am thinking about using the 3V XHP50.2 in the Q8. And to keep it safe I would use AWG 22 with 10-15cm length.
AWG22 should have 0,00548ohm resistance at 10cm length. For 48Amps, it would be a voltage drop of 0,26V.
What do you think about it? How long would you make the AWG22?
Is it necessary to bridge the battery springs to protect them from overheating and melting?
Why don’t you just go for Luxeon V’s then? You will get close to 7000 lumens with the stock setup, you will get a much nicer beam, and around 2min turbo before it gets too hot. I did it with mine and it’s still a USABLE and very bright light! With spring bypasses you should in theory get 8000 lumens with a total of around 25Amps. And you will have more throw than the XHP50.2 emitters. To me that’s important because the Q8 already has a very usable spill.