Long before the Q8 appeared, I modified a 2” (50mm) theater lighting ‘truss clamp’ to securely hold my Noctigon Meteor, which doesn’t have a tripod mount.
The Q8’s tripod mount is very useful, but this method is much sturdier for mounting lights to a car, bicycle, ATV, or other moving/vibrating object.
Truss clamps are available in several sizes and styles. I like the ‘quick release’ style like the one pictured above. Search eBay and Amazon for options.
There are also clamps that fit 1-1/4” to 1-3/8” (32mm to 35mm) tubing.
Depending on your bike’s dimensions and mounting location, perhaps you could combine two clamps to create an adjustable mount?
Checked out my temperature step down in both my lights. One is 28c and the other is 14c. 14c seems a bit cool. I know how to get into thermal temperature step down but I don’t see how to change it. The timed step down I see but not the temperature. Any help would be appreciated.
My apologies blinker…. I have been out & about since I wrote that…. playing in the snow…
I had a brain fart when I wrote that this morning…. :person_facepalming: …. But I see Jason & joechina got you squared away.
Again…… my apologies.
Snow in Alabama. That must be rare. Not where I am. Am still having a hard time with my temperature step down and the timed step down for that matter. Would like to change it but I must be doing something wrong.
If you are in ramping mode you go into the configuration menu and on the third blink (thermal/timed stepdown) you click the button twice. It does a couple of blinks then goes to Turbo. At this point you just hold on to the light until it gets to the temperature that you want it to step down at and then click the button once. It does a blink or two then continues to the 4th menu option.
Note: If you click the button in less than 5 Seconds the settings will not be changed.
I confirmed this on my Supfire L5-S which has NarsilM v1.
Yep… pretty rare blinker. Usually an inch or two every now and then… we did get 5 inches this time… but it will warm up tomorrow & melt.
However back in early March 1993 we had a blizzard. Where I was got just over 2 feet of snow as did about half the state. The whole state had snow & a deep freeze for about a week. Even the coast had 2 - 4 inches.
The state was pretty much crippled for several days….
As far as temp stepdown, I have not fooled with that. I am just leaving mine on timed…. so I can be of no help there.
We had a little snow here in Houston last night. That’s a very rare site. Luckily it didn’t get to 32° so there was no ice on the overpasses or bridges.
Did you add flux? You might need to remove the old solder and use fresh along with flux. Flux it what helps it stick.
Actually, it might be best to not use the normal leaded solder with its lower melting point of 190°C. This job might be best for unleaded solder which melts at about 220°C. Which reminds me I need to buy some lead free.
Thanks Jason. It’s working. I have one of mine going for coming up on 2 hours and it is still just warm. Not close to hot. I don’t have 30qs in. Just solder blobbed Samsung batteries from a almost new laptop battery. Thanks again.
I had AIT at Fort McClellan in Oct./Dec. of 1969. It got cold but I can’t remember snow. I wasn’t prepared for how cold it got. Somewhere around freezing if I remember right.
Temp stepdown taken care of I think. Thanks.
Yeah… I live about 20 miles from Fort McClellan (It is closed now… )
Yeah it usually get cold here. We will hit single digits a couple of times a year… down to about 0 F.
Quiet a few nights in the high teens & low 20’s. Varies from year to year of course.
I talked with a friend in SE Alaska yesterday and we were a lot colder than they were.
I did…but i just ended up with a spring I found in my parts bin and that took a second to solder. Once I bypass the springs, the mismatch current flow compare to the other 3 springs shouldn’t be a problem. Still waiting for my 20awg wires to arrive…was thinking about using 22awg but what the heck might as well go a step further.
Just cleaning up the battery tube, tin the screw holes, removed the small tail springs, and lightly sanded the positive ring…I’ve ready made great improvement on the output according to my light meter. Can’t wait to bypass the springs and replace the screws.