Here is the discussion thread (German) about the new design.
It think there are changes which should be edited in the OP
Title: First prototype
- design changed
- new picture
- Firmware changed to Andúril
Andúril is based on NarsilM and has basically the same user interface with a few extras. - link to Andúril thread
E-switch UI Development / FSM - #3 by ToyKeeper
Can the FW3A team ask a moderator to edit this in? The Miller is quite a bit away.
It was not a polished finish, it was a raw, straight from the lathe with marks and all then clear anodized.
Just noticed I’m not on the list… Would like to be added please!
Prototype looks great… I like the tapered edge but it could be shorter. Will a nichia 219C version be available?
There is no photo of it in that finish or?
Only a rendering.
Here’s a shot of a Convoy L2 anodized straight off the CNC machines…
Shiny, not polished, anodized for wear and oxidation resistance.
Are you saying that the 2 photos in post 1 are not real, just a rendering? If so, they fooled me. Lol
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As I mentioned before, I much prefer the original design, to the point that I tend not to want this light anymore (I’m very picky about the looks of a flashlight).
But there’s no arguing about taste, if most people are happy with what Lumintop made of it, this is how the light will be.
I like the original design better as well, but I will still order this tapered version.
I too prefer the original design to the new one.
If the entire tail end is glued I assume there is no possibility of a shorter 18350 tube? Given how popular that seems to be with the Emisar line and several mentions in this thread is that already a done deal or could there still be a short tube for sale separately?
This thing is getting harder to mod by the minute :laughing:
I like the new tapered version. Making each end of the light easier to differentiate by feel is a good thing.
Also, tapers just feel nice. My Nitecore Concept 1 feels much better in the hand than a Sipik 68.
Who are these people who cant find the end of their light? If you press the end and there’s a button you figured it out. If not then flip it around and repeat. The pocket clip can serve the same purpose as well.
No problem with preferring one look over another but call it what it is.
That was just the prototype that was glued. The production version might not be.
To do an 18350 tube would require 2 tubes. One inner and one outer.
I don’t know if the glued tail end is part of the plan or if it’s just a quirk of the prototype. I’m hoping it won’t stay that way in the future.
About a shorty 18350 tube, I doubt that will happen. The host design doesn’t seem very amenable to that sort of change. It would need a new clip, a new outer tube, and a new inner tube… with the clip and outer tube redesigned instead of just chopped.
My 6x Aspire cells are upset but i’ll get over it I suppose. Would be cool to see this next to a BLF A6 w/ 18350 and D4 w/ 18350. It’s like a mini evolution.
In the FW3A it seems 2 concentric tubes are clamped flat with the PCB in the endcap: Bat. neg. tube + switch signal tube.
And the inner tube must make contact. To keep that glue is a possibility.
And don’t forget you have also to clamp the clip in place.
I think Fritz is supposed to get his prototype today; it might answer some questions. Like, maybe his tail won’t be stuck together. Hopefully his button won’t be as jittery (or at least I hope he can reflash the firmware to get fixes).
The way the tail end is designed, I can see why glue would be appealing. The tail PCB has no retaining ring unless you count the outer tube. This allows it to be shorter, but also means the tail parts would all be floating when the tailcap isn’t tightened. If those parts rub together a lot, it could wear away insulation and cause a short between inner and outer tubes, which would make the button not work. To avoid loosening the tailcap during battery changes, it might need to have knurling added to the middle section (and maybe removed from the tailcap), which would look and feel odd.
Perhaps something can be worked out though. I’d still prefer no glue, even if it makes battery changes a bit harder.
Maybe it’s possible to still use your Aspire 18350s!
Just mod your FW3A with a zener diode on the driver. Replace the stock LEDs with triple XHP70 (you might have to make a custom star for that) and run it on 2xAspire 18350 in series!