Yep, that was one fun thread 
I accessed it on mobile only, and the white part of the page was barely a fifth of the total horizontal length of the page! Fun times.
Hardwood, meet teeth! :smiling_imp:
Yeah, I’ve wondered what would happen to my neck if I fall, something like that? Or if a kid bumps me from behind and makes me fall and hit a chair or something, will these 6 Ti screws snap right out of my vertebrate or what? Freaky to think about, for sure.
But hey, on that note! 
I’ve found a new use for hot rodded lights! If I do stupid stuff and get my neck hurting I can turn a nice light on in Turbo and move it around about 3” from my neck and it feels so GOOOD! 
MACROLUMEN Therapy. 
I’m gonna say it straight: I’m not bothered with Convoy cutting a corner just once or twice given how much modding is a factor for them. And I have way more reason to complain than two semi-inadequate screws, as I see it: the pill on my latest light (an S2) doesn’t have the driver retaining ring - instead, the driver board is welded directly on the pill in two spots. I’ll post a photo when I can.
Soldered, is what I hope you meant by that. Yeah, Jaxman does that as well. Much easier to unscrew a brass retaining ring of course and if you contact Simon I’m sure he’ll send you one or some or something. Still…
As I understand it Simon has only a bare few people helping him, I can see being small and having little or no professional help, how do you keep your eye on these guys all the time, right? But yeah, a pita come modding time.
Hopefully we’ll never find out for real
Well now, flashlights have ousted lanterns and candles as illumination devices, now they’re open to replacing hot water bottles as thermal therapy devices? That’s news to me! Gonna try out a torch turned on Turbo next time I bend a joint at the wrong speed. lol
Just think of the modes as warm, soothingly hot, and Bacon…. maybe stay away from Bacon mode…
One of those sidewalk chalk artists should paint a Dinobyte on that basketball floor. lol
Yeah, soldered. Not a native speaker, so a few small parts of the English language (technical terms especially) elude me sometimes. Always learning more, though!
Eh, I’m really not bothered. Being a Biscotti light with the exact tint I wanted, I see no reason to mess with the pill’s components, and the soldering is solid from what I’ve tested. Besides, I have a 3/5 S2 that I’m not really in love with if I ever get the urge to flex my modding muscles :smiling_imp:
Hi DB Custom smiles
The original C8 that everyone, including Convoy, has copied came out about 10-12 years ago and was branded Ultrafire. It had a great design but was made of cheap parts. Plastic lens and reflector, cheap switch and finish, Q5 led. It sold for less than $10 USD.
Wow! Thanks JasH! And can you believe we can still get that exact same cheap light on FastTech!
I modded a friends “A60” recently and it was not branded Jacob A60. I found one on here for my son for his birthday this past summer that is branded Jacob A60 and it seems to be a quality light. My friends light looked cheaply made by comparison but he swears up and down he bought it as an original when they first came out. He wanted it to have throw, so I put an XP-E2 Torch in it at about 2A. Those little Torch emitters have remarkable throw, especially de-domed, even if lumens is pretty lousy. So now I have to wonder what an C8 would do with a de-domed Torch emitter?
Might need to pick up a C8 host from Simon and find out…
Every S2(+) with 6*7135 or 8*7135 is soldered, only up to 4*7135 can use retaining ring. It’s the way it’s always made.
The 105C (stars select the modegroup) has the 4 spring-side 7135s at about 9/11/1/3 o’clock positions (stars at the bottom).
The 105D (UI-select the modegroup) has the 4 spring-side 7135s at 12/3/6/9 o-clock positions.
On the 105C, the corners of the 7135s keep the retaining ring from locking it down. Some people dremelled out the ring to fit around the 7135s, but you gotta “untwist” the wires first before snugging it down (twisting it).
It’s just easier to solder the beastie into the pill.
But even with a 105D, only 5 or more 7135s will use 7135s on the spring-side, so yeah, a 4×7135 105D can use the retaining ring.
I did compare my Klarus gt12 and Convoy c8. Well i was surprised that the Convoy did as same as good as the Klarus (beamshot distance, brightnes). No special test, just my eyes.
Klarus costed me 80 EUR, Convoy 20 EUR. Gotta order one or two more from Simon!
Yep, that’s the magic of Convoy. Get the whole collection if you can while at it, show the less-broadcast models some love too
I have a S2+, but the C8 is way better. Will order 1 or 2 more I have only problems with mode settings, cause dont know how to do it properly.
Can’t say much about the S2+, as I don’t have one. But I can say that people love it because it’s a pocket-friendly flooder, a role that the thrower C8 doesn’t fit in the least and fails miserably at when employed as such. Apples and oranges.
As for operating the UI, our buddy M. Hanlen’s advice should help you:
Are you referring to the XT12GT?
In which case, the Klarus will have a few advantages. The dual switches makes it easy to access the brightness level you need at the time. More importantly, the XT12GT uses a boost driver, allowing it to output its maximum brightness even as the battery drains. The C8 may compete initially, but as the battery drains, its brightness will decrease, while the XT12GT’s boost driver will maintain output.
Now, whether those advantages are worth 3-4x the cost of the C8 is up to you. Personally, I think the C8 and S2+ have a place in anyone’s collection, just because they are cheap enough that, well, why the heck not? But if you are going to be using a light heavily everyday, it may be worth it to also look into a light that uses a boost driver. For a thrower, that would be something like the XT12GT, Armytek Predator/Doberman Pro, etc.
But again, for light-moderate use, the C8 is great. And even if you use a light enough to justify something more expensive, when you can get a C8 for ~$20, it makes a ton of sense to pick one up as a backup.
The old drivers with the 3 or 5 modes were the only bad thing on Convoy’s lights. The memory function used “on time” settings which aggravated me and other people.
I haven’t bought a Convoy since he came out with the new biscotti software, but I assume it uses “off time” memory and is much nicer to operate.
My 3 Convoy lights either have been reflashed to guppydrv or driver swapped to Narsil.
Were you saying your having trouble with the new biscotti mode settings? I can’t help you on that. Has anyone done a video on the menu settings for Biscotti?
I could not follow M Hanlen’s explanations. His instructions were not synchronized to the video. It was just a flurry of presses and flashes. Lol.
I guess that’s what the double time menu looks like.
After 10 half presses, it does a flutter, this is when you press for memory on/off, right?
So you wait longer and it does:
1 preflash that you don’t count?
Followed by the number of flashes that you DO count?
Turn the light off after the number of secondary flashes that match the mode you want.
Is this correct?
Here, I’ll try and put it in a nutshell:
Half-press the switch very fast until the emitter doesn’t immediately turn on when you let go of it. At this point, the Convoy will be in configuration mode, where it’ll do a BIP-boop flash (very short bright flash and a longer dimmer one), a BIP-BIP-boop flash (two short brights, one long dim), and if you don’t do anything, it’ll go back to the first mode of the currently programmed mode group. If you didn’t intend for the torch to go into config mode, you can just let it run its course.
If you half-press it during the BIP-boop, it’ll go on mode selection. Then, it’ll flash a number of times with a small downtime where it’s off, starting on one flash and going all the way to 12 flashes, upon where it’ll go back to 1 flash. The number of flashes indicates the mode group that it’ll fall into when you HALF-press (this is important) the switch.
Now, if you half-press it during the BIP-BIP-boop flash, you’ll toggle mode memory. If it was on, it’ll now be off; if it was off, it’ll be on now.
It sounds way harder than it actually is, believe me. And yes, I added old TV robot noises to help me explain it