UPDATE! “Report on”: Convoy S2+ Mini with 1*7135 chip (Beamshot Comparison)

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UPDATE POST: UPDATE! “Report on”: Convoy S2+ Mini with 1*7135 chip (Beamshot Comparison) - #20 by MascaratumB

WARNING: This not a review, but more a kind of “report”.

Hi BLF:

Today I received a “long awaited” * Convoy S2+ Mini * (16340/18350 version), from Simon. (Shipped on 22 October)
I asked him to equip it with:

- SMO reflector

- XPL-HI U6-4C (Neutral to Warm White)

- Biscotti 3*7135 Chips

- Forward switch

  • White rubber tailcap

My aim when I ordered this flashlight was to have a short flashlight, with a really low moonlight mode, and which I could use with a 16340 or a 18350 battery.

Also, I wanted a flashlight that I could use “silently”, without having to make a full click to switch it ON (hence, the forward switch).

I asked it with a XPL-HI U6-4C & SMO reflector as I wanted it to have a narrow hotspot (as the one from the Convoy S2+ Desert Tan), and I preferred a warmer tint, compared with the XPL-HI U6-3A from the DT version.

So, this is what I wanted or what I idealized. I received the light in pristine conditions and as good as ever, from Simon, and with all the specs I asked for!

I must say that I like the Desert Tan colour very much, but the mix from blue & grey from the S2+ Mini is something delicious!
I really love its colour and smooth anodization. It is smoother than the black and the Desert Tan versions, maybe it is a bit slippery, but the smooth touch conquered me! I just can compare it with the Emisar D4 (grey version) that is also that smooth!

Well, but now I’ll make a comparison between what I idealized and my feeling after receiving it and using it for a while, my “clash with reality”.

1 – Driver: This is one of the “old” Biscotti versions, once it has a strobe with single frequency and it is faster than the #2 version of this driver.
PROBABLE ACTION: Due to what I will say next, I’ll probably stack some 7135 chips on it, to make it a 8*7135 driver, eventually…or more than that :smiley: Or maybe I’ll replace it!

2 – Forward Switch: I wanted to have momentary ON feature. But after using it for a while with and without memory configured, I perceived that the forward switch does not interact so well with this driver as I thought it would…

Maybe due to the driver version (it reacts too fast when clicking, or sometimes it seems to get stuck…), maybe due to the memory, I don’t know, but what was happening was that the modes jumped a lot, entering the configuration settings.

ACTION: I decided to replace the forward switch and put a reverse switch on it, in order to make it work well. I’m still getting some difficulties, so maybe the switch was just part of the problem, and the rest is on the driver…

3 – LED + SMO reflector: As I said, I chose this combination so that I could get a narrow beam that would be more useful for me, because it would concentrate the light in one spot, that I prefer for night vision at home when all is dark and people are sleeping.

I rapidly noticed that on the very centre of the hotspot, there is a yellow dot. The reflection from the SMO + the tint of the LED originated that dot. The corona also has more marked yellowish shade, while the rest of the beam (spill and even hotspot) are “whiteish”. It is hard to describe and it was difficult to get a picture that captured this.

ACTION: First I swapped the reflector and used an OP reflector, and the hotspot got less defined and more floody (not as much as a XML2 would make it, though). Then I decided to use a pebbled TIR lens (with holder) and that is the actual configuration of the light. The original lens is a clear lens, not AR coated.

Moonlight (0,1) > High (100)

Desert Tan XPL-HI U6-3A (SMO Reflector) > S2+ Mini XPL-HI U6-4C (OP Reflector)

4 - Output level: Well, I thought that getting a 3*7135 driver would make the low modes (0,1%) go lower… But it didn’t! The output level on the lowest mode – I would risk saying – is evenly the same from as from a 8*7135 driver. Sometimes it seems even brighter (if compared with the DT version, both with SMO reflector), but I believe that it has to do with the tint, as the warmer seems to be more prominent.

On the other outputs, some differences emerge, mainly on the 2 highest (Mode 2 configured: 0,1 – 1 – 10 – 35 – 100%), and on the thermal aspects, as this 3*7135 version doesn’t get hot.

Comparison between Convoys: L to = XPL-HI U6-3A > XML2 T6-4C > XML2 U2-1A > XPL-HI U6-4C (mini)

_

As you may notice, by this time, almost all of my ideas have failed about this configuration.

What I mention as good/positive from this experience:
1 – this Convoy S2+ Mini host is really cute and beautiful;

2 – the tint from the XPL-HI U6-4C is quite nice, not as warm as a XML2 T6-4C, and if used with a pebbled TIR lens will produce a very nice Neutral White beam. I don’t recommend using it with a SMO reflector, as it may cause that yellow dot in the centre of the hotspot;

3 lights with Pebbled lenses: L to R = Modded light XML2 T6-3B > Convoy S2+ Mini XPL-HI U6-4C > Amutorch SSteel with Nichia 219C

3 – the drivers with few 7135 chips are really nice for home flashlights, and if installed in a 18650 host they will probably provide lots of hours of illumination without getting hot.

4 – Convoy quality is always good, and Simon is an excellent guy that made the things I asked in a very professional way! As ever! :slight_smile:

What to do next?
Well, I’ll probably use this host + driver + OP reflector + forward switch (or lighted switch) to make a nice “hot” light with Lexel’s driver with Bistro HD OTSM, or maybe I’ll turn it into a triple.

Anyway: for those I had to answer – sorry, can’t remember who or where – this is my experience with the 3*7135 Biscotti driver and XPL-HI U6-4C LED!

Feel free to ask questions or make any comments.
Best regards

UPDATE POST: UPDATE! “Report on”: Convoy S2+ Mini with 1*7135 chip (Beamshot Comparison) - #20 by MascaratumB

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One light I want to build for someone is a shorty tube with 1-mode driver and TIR lens, for a nice smooth beam, compromise between brightness and runtime (especially with a short cell), and have it be just a generic in-purse light for lighting up the path at night, in winter, etc., and for grubbling around in dark places.

Maybe a 2-mode driver (105C) for low/high, but not more than that.

Use of a FC switch in a light whose UI is designed for a RC switch is always a bad idea. Use a WK50 if you can find one, or even an older non-S VG10. Takes a little getting used to, but it’s wonderful when you do.

And congrats, you discovered the evils of a fried-egg beam when using a warmer Cree with a SMO reflector! OP helps blend the mess, TIRs more so. A 4C with TIR is a thing of beauty, dunno why you wasted yuor time with any reflector. :smiley:

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Mine has now the TIR lens, but I’m using it with the Configuration 2 enabled (5 modes). I like it for the night, at home! But even with 3 chips, this light with 1 mode only is plenty bright! And does not get hot :wink:

Eheh, now I know that :smiley: But first I had to make the mistake :wink: I just wanted to make an experience with forward switch! Next time I…there won’t be next time!
And thanks for the recommendation! Probably with other kind of driver/firmware I’ll be able to use the forward clicky more appropriately!

Well, this was the first XPL-HI 4C I have so I had to try! The OP reflector wasn’t bad at all, but for the current purposes, I’ll stick with the TIR, it is better on the lowest modes, diffusing the light!

I like this tint, despite it is different from the XML2 T6-4C, which tens more to yellow while the XPL-HI with TIR tends to rosy :wink:
All nice :smiley:

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With a RC, you full-press to turn it on, then half-press to select your mode.

With a FC, you half-press to select your mode, then full-press to keep it.

That’s the main difference in a nutshell. The advantage of a FC switch is the ability to silently flash’n’dash with just a half-press.

Cree doesn’t design their chips for flashlights, so angular tint-shift is the least of their concerns. But reflectors bring out that fried-egginess in their chips.

When I got my first 4C S2+, I thought nfw is that a 4C, as the hotspot is just too yellow! Took me using ceiling-bounce to see what a nice color it actually is… but why? Why, hey! The spill is so blue/cool compared to the yellow/warm hotspot! But combine the two, and you get the nice summed 4C tint!

And you’re also likely to run into the horribly yellow corona around the hotspot, too.

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Eheh, I know that! So far I only have 1 flashlight with FC, the Nitefox UT20, and I like that feature, so I decided to try it with this Convoy, unsuccessfully! As I said, maybe with other driver :wink:

Yeah, the TIR erases those odd things! My S2+ with XML2 T6-4C was a “paradigm shift” in my tint preferences, but it has to be “well” done to avoid those kind of beam artifacts (tint shift and so on).
I’ve been using the Amutorch SS with a XML2 and a TIR lens (original, maybe 45º?) and it works pretty well, giving a nice homogeneous colour.

My next step is to put one if this XPL-HI U6-4C (or 3A…) on the SP10A or B, as I mentioned on other thread :wink:

I will also take 2 of the 7135 chips on this S2+ to check how the lowest mode performs.

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[quote=Lightbringer]
Use of a FC switch in a light whose UI is designed for a RC switch is always a bad idea.

Do you think a FC is a bad idea for a 5/3 mode S2+ ?

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Absolutely, unless you want to get thoroughly confused.

It can be done, and nothing’s going to “break”, but it’ll be a pain in the ass to try to switch modes.

Eg, what you’d normally do with one half-press when on, you’d have to turn off the light, wait long enough, half-press it long enough to simulate it being “on”, then momentarily release the switch and quickly half-press it on again. Or release-then-press multiple times to simulate multiple half-presses of a RC switch, then full-press to keep it once you get to the mode you want.

Like I said, it won’t break anything, but it’ll be damned cumbersome.

FC lights like it best when you just keep it on one usual mode (eg, moonlight for not blinding yourself at night, or 100% if you want it at its brightest), and optionally just half-press initially to get to a different mode if you want.

That’s why, to me, my favorite lights are FC 1-mode lights (eg, my F13, L2M, etc.) that are full-tilt all the time, and I don’t have to worry about changing modes. Should do up a few C8s that way…

My WK50 is an exception, as I normally keep that on moonlight, know it’s on moonlight when I’d flick it on once, so if I want anything different, I half-press as needed to get to the mode I want. Then when I’m done, go through the process again to put it back on moonlight.

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Thanks , I did not know the light could not be half pressed from ON to switch modes .

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Only lights with reverse-clicky switches, not forward-clicky switches.

RC is momentary-off from on.

FC is momentary-on from off.

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Got it now . If a light is designed for FC from the start such as tactical lights , the same holds true ?

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Yep.

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So if momentary on were used it would change modes and not stay in original mode selected ?

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No, on is on. It doesn’t turn “more-on” with a half press.

You either have to do it the way I listed in detail above, or swap it for a RC switch.

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I mean from off , as in a quick half press , then back off . Would this not change modes so next momentary on would be a different brightness ? Pardon my lack of understanding of this , I have no FC to experiment with .

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It’s all a matter of timing. I have no idea how long you’d half-press it on, wait ’til the next half-press, etc.

That’s why I said it’d be cumbersome if using a FC switch on a UI meant for RC switches.

Kinda just proved my point. :smiley:

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Yeah , it is . The reason I was asking is because I was toying with converting one of my S2+ to a weapons light . Now that you have explained it to me , I don't think it would be any good . Momentary on could be any length of time and single light level would be a crap shoot . Too many failure chances .

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Same with a RC switch. A “flicker” even with a RC switch could change modes.

Off, “ooh, what’s that?” back on, unwanted mode-change.

A 1-mode is the only way to avoid unwanted mode-changes. Otherwise, FC or RC, you can have an unwanted/accidental mode-change.

Weapon-light? Hell, even a flicker from recoil could break contact enough to cause a mode-change. The battery would bounce back’n’forth in the tube like a shaken-baby’s head.

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Good point . My current light for this is a combo FC/ side switch . It does have multi modes but so far no mode change . Atactical A1S . Nice light for the money .

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Hi MascaratumB. Can you give more info on the switch in your mini S2? It appears the tail is the same as a normal blue/red/green S2, but without the metal switch. Is the hole threaded? Did Simon just stick a small rubber tail cap in it?

I’ve been wanting to buy a non-grey/black S2+ host and stick in a color matching lighted switch in it, but I want to do it with a white rubber tail cap. Looks like this may be a way to do it.

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So, in the name of the “flashlight science”, I was messing with the S2+ Mini I received.
It had a 3*7135 Biscotti driver, and I wanted to test how low the lowest mode would go, meaning, I modded it and extracted 2 chips. Current driver situation is 1*7135.

I made some beamshots still with 3 chips and after taking the 2 chips out. I present you the results below.

S2+ Mini (1*7135 + XPL-HI U6-4C + Pebbled TIR) >>>> S2+ Mini (3*7135 + XPL-HI U6-4C + Pebbled TIR) >>>> S2+ Desert Tan (8*7135 + XPL-HI U6-3A + SMO Reflector)

———

S2+ Mini (1*7135 + XPL-HI U6-4C)
Pebbled TIR >>>> SMO Reflector >>>> OP Reflector

On the lowest mode (0,1%)
S2+ Mini (3*7135) >>>> S2+ Desert Tan (8*7135) ||||| S2+ Mini (1*7135) >>>> S2+ Desert Tan (8*7135)

S2+ Mini (1*7135 + TIR) >>Nitefox UT20 >> Zanflare F1 >> S2+ Desert Tan >> S2+ XML2 U2-1A >> S2+ XML2 T6-4C

And my final conclusion is… even with 1*7135 chip, the lowest mode (0,1%) is still brighter than some moonlight modes of flashlights like the Zanflare F1 or the Nitefox UT20 (especially when using the SMO or OP reflectors instead of the TIR lens).

I would compare it with other lights with “true” moonlight modes (Jetbeam RRT-01 or a modded light with Reylight Pineapple Brass driver), but those are the lowest output lights I have (firefly level), so I don’t think they are useful for this comparison.

When comparing it with 3 Convoy lights with Biscotti drivers with 8*7135 chips, this Convoy S2+ Mini doesn’t get a 0,1% mode higher than the ones of the other S2+, but the “Mini’s” level isn’t much below them (either using OP or SMO reflector or even Pebbled TIR lens).

With 1*7135 and/or with 3*7135 chips it is a light with a very low output on the lowest and nice output on the highest modes, very useful for indoor and/or outdoor at close range.