Well I uploaded a pic to freeimagehosting.net and used all 6 of there different links to post the pic and none of them will work so here is a link to where i think the photo might be veiwable lol....http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?7488e5e3e6.jpg
Right click on the actual image in the browser and choose something like "copiy image location". You're probably pasting in the html page url above instead :)
Agenthex I don't have that option in my right click menu. I really am not this stupid to figure out something so simple. When I uploaded the pic to that site it gave me the code to use but none of it worked so I don't know.
Thanks for posting the pic for me though.
Is your driver the same as mine?
Ok I figured it out. There was too much info in the codes gave to me by the site so I just posted the root location.
Wow I had to pick a giant picture!
You can resize the image by going to the image posting dialog's advanced properties and using a smaller size (like 800x600).
And my driver looks the same as yours. Both my two irons are broken (missing tip on one, cable to station glitchy on other) so I won't be able to do anything until I get some parts for them.
Some of the red drivers don't have the circuit trace like yours and my light and I suspect that those are also the drives that burn up when using a 3.7 volt cell.
I'm sure you will have no problem locating the capacitor. But if you are in question about the cap location and are going to mod your light you can post the pics and I can point out the cap. I would be happy to do that! That will keep me from having to disassemble my light to take the pics.
Ey guys! wait a moment, I see that photo and the driver is the same than in the my TrustFire F20 which destroyed when a 14500 batt was used. Has the red trace...
Thanks Fran82 for pointing out that this style driver got fried. You probably saved my light. I only tested a 3.7v cell for a short time in my light (all I have right now is 18650's that will just fit in the head then I jumped the negative pole to the case with wire just to test it) and I had read that some ppl's were fried nearly instantly so I figured the other driver wasn't safe for a 3.7v cell. But it seems you never can tell with these chinese lights!
Thanks Vectrex for the link to the picture tutorial.
I used 14500 in mine for a while, it'a 2x as bright and all measurements are sane. Just monitor the current.
Ok took my light apart so I could take some pics of my mod to solve slow memory function.
First two pics is the location of the capacitor that needs to have a 100k resistor bridged across it.
Your light my only have one cap but mine had two stacked on top of one another. I guess the ran out of the one they needed so they used two.
Like I also said these caps just might be the fix for the delay at power on as well so maybe the additional cap was a factory mod to fix the delay....who knows?? All I know is my light never had a delay just took forever for the memory to kick in. But now it's perfect!!
Notice in the pic below the SMT Resistor I placed between the two capacitors. Also note my light came factory with the two caps. As stated before anything between 47k ohm and 200k ohm should work fine. I used a 100k and my memory is almost instant.
I hope this helps everyone out!
Thanks. That's a pretty damn clever soldering job. :)
Thank you very much Agenthex! I have lots of practice! I love to build things with electronics so fixing up these budget lights is quite fun. I need to buy more so I can learn the circuits as I would like to be able to speed up the strobe mods on the lights with the slow stobe and slow SOS at least if the have to have those mods it would be nice for them to work like I think they should! My C3SS has super fast strobe and really fast SOS too which makes it more bearable lol.
Ey! Definetively that driver is the same than the one in the F20, which destroyed with 14500. Now I see both sides of the driver I can surely afirm that is the same
Which part is fried in your F20 driver? Can you see the fried part?
No I cant
Simply is short circuited
peter, your spam link does not work.
thank you, i will care.
Is there a way to fix (at least some) drivers to always start on high?